Garrett designed and built the turbo, not Ford. Get a 360 or 270 bearing and have confidence that either will be good for 200,000 miles or more.

360 bearings are a nice upgrade at the same or close to cost for a 270 bearing kit. The 360 kit will come with a couple extra bits and pieces normally. Your choice, but for your use you will never notice a difference.

Garrett 270 bearing kit...

Riffraff 360 bearing kit...

 

SkySkiJason I just noticed that you have pink anti freeze in the overflow bottle. what's that about? Also while I'm on this subject has anyone that you know of used Evens no water anti freeze or is it even compatible with diesel? Tremendous low freeze point and very high boiling point.

 

over rated.

 

That **** is an expensive hobby... I ran it for a few years and it cost a damn fortune and caused a lot of frustration. I won’t bore you with the stories - but it’s not worth it. For reliability I want to run something I can get ANYWHERE.

The ‘pink’ is Fleet brand ‘pre-charged’ coolant I run in E99 and older engines. The ‘red’ will be ELC (Final Charge, Rotella ELC, CAT EC1, etc).

<L99 injector cup sealant is not compatible with ELC.

Conventional coolant requires adding and monitoring SCA’s. The pink stuff has SCA in it, but still requires monitoring and adding SCA. It also has a 100k mile service life and system must be properly flushed (block drains must be removed for this).

ELC requires no monitoring or adding SCA and has 350-500k mile service life.

 

Ok thanks, you guys have been a great help! My KC300 360* Balanced kit is on the way. Doing this at a step at a time. My next purchase is the tuner. Now one of my big considerations is I am aiming for some kind of assisted braking. Reading about how the EBPV aids in braking I elected to rebuild it which is done. Now also doing some research some have elected to fab in a switch directly to the EBPV solenoid which takes a few seconds to engage which I think is ok because I would only be using it on long grades. Now the DP tunes has a feature that aids in the coast clutch in slowing you down and was (and still am) considering it but SkySkiJason said (who's forgotten more then I know about diesels like most of youn's) has concerns that there was too much advance built into them and may have contributed to 2 engine failures. Also not thrilled with having to go in and out of the braking mode once you need to accelerate. Which leads me to the HYDRA tune which has nothing as far as I know for braking and that's where the EBPV comes in to play. From what I've read here on FTE the HYDRA is the latest up to date technology and is expandable down the road.
Thoughts/ advice?

 

I"ve been out of the game for a bit but the Hydra was the "it" thing to have. The PHP (Power Hungry Performance) standard tune library is available which has multiple tunes available for each hex code. These tunes are for a (mostly) stock truck. Once you start making "large" modifications (e.g. injectors) then that tune library will no longer work. That would require custom tunes that would get e-mailed to you.

The great thing about the Hydra is that you can load/unload/move tunes in your driveway. The 6 position chip required you to mail it to the vendor for a reburn if you wanted to move things around or update the tune.

Lots of vendors write for the Hydra so there's a lot to choose from. Lots of threads on the subject if you have enough coffee to read them. If you peruse threads for research be cognizant of the dates. What was hot a year (or two) ago may not be popular now.

You will get good and bad opinions on just about anyone out there. Once you have decided on how you want to use your truck and what you're looking for from tuning (and customer service) then you can narrow down your choices. I would also recommend PM'ing with some people that have had success at what you are trying to achieve or have had experience with the tuners you are interested in.

Just my .02

 

PHP library for stock injectors and the ‘extended library’ for upgraded injectors are fine. I’ve used them in quite a few trucks.

If you want to tweak something, you can always go through a ‘tuner’ and get custom tunes via email.

 

Thanks for the replies. One of these days I'll make a big pot of coffee and read the tunes. I started one and not knowing what I'm reading I got confused quickly. I was surprised that the low HP tunes were for towing anf the higher HPs were for daily driving.

Now my new dilemma. I posted weeks ago about the driver side manifold. Well decided to get a new one. My idea was working and that was cutting the bolts off just under the manifold. There are 8 bolts and when I got thru # 7 the manifold fell off. I was excited for a moment when I realized that #8 bolt was broken off about 1 thread below the head. Killer I'm posting pics and my comment on the other thread i started weeks ago. Here is the link. I had to take the oil cooler off and good thing as the rear gasket was about to fail. Also took the 4 bolts out that hold the power steering pump and the al;alternator together to get it out of the way.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...6&goto=newpost

 

Is this exhaust port going to seal or should I get a new one? Pics look better then in person. I wouldn't think I would be able to grind off the corrosion perfectly enough to make it seal on the down pipe.
Also does the waist ever open all the way? When I push mine open it sticks and fairly well too. That seems like a lot of distance for the actuator to move it.

 

The wastegate will stick pretty good if have it disconnected and try to open it all the way. I tried that out of curiosity when I rebuilt my turbo...to see the range of travel.

When it's all hooked up it will only open partially. You can test it out by using compressed air to open the wastegate, it doesn't move very much. Now I wouldn't recommend using 100psi air and going to town as I don't know how much that diaphragm is rated for.

 

That butterfly valve is the EBPV, not wastegate.

If you are keeping it, you’ll want to clean all of that soot off to mitigate ‘sticking’.

I usually delete the EBPV to eliminate the chance of an oil leak at the pedestal. Costs about $1 to delete or $60 to rebuild pedestal. I recommend one or the other.

 

Clean that exhaust port adapter with a stiff wire wheel like on an angle grinder.

 

Sorry I didn't speak clearly and know the difference. There are 2 different questions for two different parts. What I'm showing in the pic is the exhaust port with the EBPV in it but the seal is corroded where it connects to the down pipe and I'm concerned that there won't be a good seal between the two parts. Don't think that by hand grinding it wouldn't be a perfect enough to get a tight seal.

The other question is about the waist gate and it does stick when it is opened all the way.

 

My opinion is the WG should never open. I crank the adjustment all the way down so WG cannot open. Then delete the red and green hoses.

 

I guess I could use this stuff "Exhaust assembly paste" to fill any gapes. Says it's for exhaust collars, pipe inserts and flanged connections. Also not sensitive to shock or vibration. Temps up to 1292*