Yes. Just connects the front of the tank to the back.

Not sure if its needed.

 

I would think the two vents should be connected in some way as I stated with a full tank and on a steep grade fuel could leak out.

 

I got the filter and clamps and the tank is done and thoroughly cleaned. Now there is a barb on the filter ends but how did you form one on the metal lines? Also took the time while the tank was out to lightly blast the rusty crusty stuff and paint the underside and inside the frame.

Also a side question. The bearing carrier for the drive shaft is held in place by two 3/8" fold nuts. Is this correct or did someone take a short cut?

 

The only metal line you should have left is on top of the tank where you attach the rubber fuel line too. You will not need a barb, just clamp your line and run it to the filter.

 

For the metal lines near the filter I heated the hose to slip over the flange at the pump and other side. I then double clamped the hard lines on the outer side of the flange.

 

I don’t do it that way.

If you cut the flex hose hose off the hard line behind the pump, there is a ‘barb’ on the hard line. You’ll only need <1ft of 30R9 and the 33972 filter goes in that.

You MUST use ‘fuel injection’ hose clamps.

I do heat the hose to push it over the ‘barb’ on fuel pump.

 

Next weekend I plan on starting this truck for he first time since last may with all my completed mods and repairs. First I've got to get this concern out of my head. When I took the exhaust manifold off I had to remove the oil cooler first. Didn't realize that all this antifreeze was going to pour out. My concern is that it got into the sump through those oil port holes in the block. I drained the oil tonight and watched it as it came out and did not notice any antifreeze. Should have come out first if there was any significant amount in there. I was originally thinking of some how flushing it with old oil but don't have any old diesel oil.

Also I noticed that the drain plug is always leaking. Took a good look at the plug and the copper sealing ring. Now the plug is a standard Ford flat head plug but the hole where the sealing ring seats into is beveled. Is the OEM sealing ring beveled or is it the wrong plug / set up. You can clearly see in the pic that the sealing ring is beveled but the edge goes beyond the flats of the plug and that's where it gets distorted. Now I have a copper sealing ring assortment and the best fitting ring is a 14x20 but it is flat too. The one that was used and pictured must be a 14x22. What is correct.

 

There shouldn’t be any coolant in the oil from that. But, removing the block drains before oil cooler reduces the mess. A LOT.

 

The pics shows the red hose and for the life of me I don't remember what it goes to. looked through all my before disassembly pics and covered up in the pics. Can you help please? I do want to hook it up too and not eliminate it for now.

My goal was to get this thing started this weekend. No tank installed yet and I first want to turn over the engine to get oil pressure before I start it. Couldn't find the fuel pump relay and seems like no info anywhere however I discovered that the #40 fuse is for the fuel pump so I'll pull that.

 

Red hose goes to the wastegate controller. Red arrow in photo below. Looks like the 90* boot has came off the hose and is still connected to the controller.
I didn’t read back through the thread but didn’t you put a billet wheel in the turbo? If so I recommend not connecting it and instead plug the end of the red hose. SSJ I believe always recommends removing.

 

Fuel pump fuse won’t stop the engine from starting.

There is no reason to do it, but unplug the 42pin harness to prevent starting.

 

Yes I remember now where it goes. I did the KC 360 kit and yes it has the 6x6 billet compressor wheel.

You are correct SSJ it started and I shut it down immediately. So you say no reason to to it even though I had the oil cooler off and oil drained for 3 months?

Thanks!

 

If there is enough oil pressure for the engine to run, everything is adequately lubricated. Just let it idle for awhile and never let the engine make boost until warm.

 

I was about to install the fuel tank when I found some wiring buggers along with a harness the PO must have installed with Scotch Locks and cut out for what I don't know. Wiring repairs blow all my time for tank install. I'll post some pics tonight.
Thanks!

 

There were some wire splices in the main harness going to the back of the truck. Don't know what this was spliced in for but a poor job using Scotch Locks. I removed them and some of the wires had a bit of green corrosion on them. Used a contact cleaner to remove corrosion and then used a brushable electrical tape to seal them. Then a good tape job on top of that. Found other wires where someone was probing and didn't bother to seal the insulation with anything. One larger red wire was corroded in half inside the insulation. I noticed a little green dot and the wire was a little fatter around the dot. Sliced some of the insulation back and saw what I thought I was going to see.

pic # 2. I have no clue what this device is for. There "was" a wire about 12 gauge from the + side of the battery to a relay then to the canister (pictured) back out the other side and followed the harness back and taped into that new harness. What ever it was used for ether wasn't needed anymore or it failed because it was cut off 2 feet past those splices. Any ideas?