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Went back to Menards and they had the socket this time. Got my turbo apart and cleaned up so the only concern I have is the aluminium plate that has the marks on it. What is that 1.0 A/R mean tha is in the casting of the backing plate? Going to order the KC 360 kit probably from Riff Raft but that manifolds problems showed up again. The last bolt on the right side is very deteriorated but the rest although has corrosion on them i'm not worried. I'm sure 1 bolt can cause a problem. The driver side just looks worse now that everything is out of there.The right side up pipe pulled right out and the left I gave it a quick tug left the right and broke off. This is now going to be a long process because I am now 75% committed in replacing the exhaust manifolds myself.
I was trying to look for another tread where someone had told me what type of paint they used on their turbo housing. i don't see where you can go back to other treads you started. Am I missing something?
If you go to your profile page there is a section on the side for “subscriptions”. It doesn’t show up on my iPhone unless I change to “request desktop site.” On current iOS you get there by tapping the AA in upper left.
@SkySkiJason is the one who knows all about painting. I also saw where he explained the process and what he uses recently but don’t remember what thread it was in.
If you go to your profile page there is a section on the side for “subscriptions”. It doesn’t show up on my iPhone unless I change to “request desktop site.” On current iOS you get there by tapping the AA in upper left.
Duh. On the phone you can also click on the 3 little bars in the upper left. “Subscriptions” is in the drop down menu.
Personally, I installed an AIS when I modified my stock turbo because I do NOT enjoy the sound of a screaming turbo.
Originally Posted by GotAll4
Like you Sous I'm not thrilled of all the turbo noises and not trying to impress anyone. Just use the truck for what it was meant for. I mentioned earlier that for now I'm sticking with the stock set up after my up pipes and KC balance kit are installed.
Following as I'm also looking at KC balanced. Currently have ATS housing on the turbo and AIS intake, but concerned about the noise with KC 6x6 wheel. I still have original compressor housing.???
Larry, you should remove that clamp on passanger side fuel line while it's easy to get at.
I'm one of those old fashion guys and have almost nothing on my phone. Just what I need for my job and not even my email. I do all this on my desk top usually when I get home after work. Been off because of this Covid thing so trying to take advantage of my time off. Too many disruptions during the day and don't need to add more. Anyway thanks for the info won't go to waist because in a couple of years when we hit the road with this truck and camper I'll be running everything off my phone or a tablet.
@SkySkiJason, for the hot side VHT Flameproof 2000* coating, do you use the liquid in the can or the aerosol?
Also, do you use the primer and the clear top coat?
Just asking, because your work looks nice, and protected.
@SkySkiJason, for the hot side VHT Flameproof 2000* coating, do you use the liquid in the can or the aerosol?
Also, do you use the primer and the clear top coat?
Just asking, because your work looks nice, and protected.
Aerosol. No primer and especially no clear coat.
Surface prep is CRITICAL. Must remove all oil/grease (solvent/brake cleaner, etc). Don’t use wire wheel. Apply with multiple light coats - thickness counts, but follow the recoat directions. Baking is also critical. My ‘powder coat oven’ is modified so it can do the 600* bake - but I would not do this where momma cooks dinner. You can do the on-the-truck method with pretty good results.
I'm one of those old fashion guys and have almost nothing on my phone. Just what I need for my job and not even my email. I do all this on my desk top usually when I get home after work. Been off because of this Covid thing so trying to take advantage of my time off. Too many disruptions during the day and don't need to add more. Anyway thanks for the info won't go to waist because in a couple of years when we hit the road with this truck and camper I'll be running everything off my phone or a tablet.
Gotcha. On the PC click on the little drop down arrow next to your user name in the upper right corner. Subscriptions should be a selection option.
You can also find all the threads you have started by going to your profile page (click your name) and selecting the statistics tab. There should be a choice like “find all threads by”.
Originally Posted by GotAll4
What clamp and why. is it the one that wears into something?
The clamp can wear through the fuel line. He’s saying you should remove the clamp circled below. There’s also one on the driver’s side front that should be removed.
Do I need to replace the intake boots if I do the KC balanced 300 turbine and compressor wheel?
Not required, but Riffraff plenum inserts, upgraded clamps for plenums (replace worm clamps) and upgraded boots are a solid investment and labor is the same if you’re ‘already in there’.
Ok got into a discussion with a parts supplier about the 360 bearing. They switch from brass to steel because they said it was stronger. My Garrett has a steel bearing in it and I'm sure it's original. Not that Ford does everything perfectly. I guess the brass dissipates the heat faster but if it's in there 24/7 i would think it would become the temperature of everything else around it. So it's softer too and has a natural lubrication quality. So what's the scoop?
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
