If thee is so much wear on the tapered area that has you concerned, then you should replace it. It might be fine, and probably would be, but it's your dime.

 

Like Dan said, if you’re worried about it $60 will get you a new one with the EBPV deleted.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffr...h-flow-outlet/

 

Thanks for the link. My thoughts too but was worried about he quality of the $60+ parts out there. Riff Raff has the one I want for $81 but is out of stock, Ebay $65.

Today is the day i will try to get #8 broken bolt out. I was able to drill a 1/8" hole through the bolt and have been shooting penetrating fluid in the hole every few hours. I'll keep using a larger left handed drill bit but only could find a set up to 1/4". Hopefully the fluid did it's job and the bolt comes flying out.

 

I believe I have a 200,000 mile outlet that is in decent shape in my garage. It was a take off part when I rebuilt my turbo and installed the Garrett high flow outlet.

If you think you want it, it is yours, just let me know.

 

Aw man I just went on line and ordered one with a new actuator too. Thanks for the offer Sous!

 

Yes, if opened all the way the Wastegate in the housing can stick open.

Once the arm is hooked up it can never move that far. So no problem.

Ask me how I know with the turbo on the truck.

 

How do you know?

This last bolt is another killer. Started doing my step drilling got up to 1/4" easily decided to apply a little heat in hopes it would back out and it would not drill. Ruined a couple of bits too. Took my 90* die grinder with a 1/4" carbide bit and I was able to enlarge the hole with that. Now trying to get my 21/64" bit to drill and that wouldn't drill even with a cobalt bit. Talked to my mechanic and he said not all bolts are hardened all the way through. So that's why it was easy to drill out the center and much harder when I got out to the edge. Not sure what to do.
20+ years ago I blow out a suspension pinch bolt in my explore for the camber adjustment but that wasn't in a blind hole and not a expensive head. It's getting tempting. Wonder if there is a way o anneal what's left of the bolt in the hole.

 

WOW that was a job. Character builder. Found a 7.6 round die grinder bit and worked it back and forth. Then all of a sudden a plug shod up and was able to pic it out. Damaged a few threads but running a tap in it I was able to cut a few extra threads. I'll get a bottoming tap and see if they can be cleaned up some more then probably use a longer bolt.. Thanks for he help.

 

Pick up my OEM manifold in Saturday. Was supersized of the size of the holes for the bolts. However the one is much smaller then the other. Shocking if the originals put on during assembly were the same size and and corroded up that much. I'm thinking of taking it to our local powder coater and have the it ceramic powder coded along with the bolts. I will be driving this truck mainly during the winter and just concerned about corrosion. 174k on it now and only in the last 10 year have we moved to this brine stuff on the road and for the last 6 years it's been stored during the winter months. So I'll easily put that on it and if the heads need to come off or something don't want to run into this again at home or definitely on the road.

Anyway my Haynes manual says to start from the outside and go across but I've read other wise to start in the middle then stagger the order. I would assume you start in the smaller hole which probably aligns the part and you should have plenty of tolerance to install the other bolts.

 

Start with the middle smaller hole.

 

Even if you don't have them ceramic coated, at least VHT flameproof black paint them. The can is under $10 and may give you several more years. I never had good success with the silver, but the black has never let me down. When I remove my turbo this winter I will be painting the center section and turbine VHT flame proof black.

 

Finally had some time to clean up the left side. Used wire cone brush, green bristle disc and a brown cookie. There is a lot of pitting on the mating surfaces. Very concerned with leakage. If not at first I'm sure the exhaust will find it's way through all those pits. anyway I'm thinking I should use a gasket or something to seal. I wrote this below in another tread but no one replied.

I just read the "Exhaust manifold re-seal in the truck with pics" in the tech folder and was a bit surprised that someone used a manifold gasket. Seems like the consensus here is not to use one like the factory. I too was holding to that but 3 out of the 4 ports looked like they were leaking on the driver side. So most are concerned that there would be a failure of the gasket down the road but the metal to metal isn't with out risks ether. Seems like a lot of leaking going on. "So pick your poison". I also started to investigate if there were copper gaskets out there just to have something in there for positive sealing. Or make my own. Would like to hear your thoughts and experiences.

I just bought a new OE manifold and along with the bolts having them ceramic coated to keep corrosion to a minimum. $90 insurance policy cheap! My thinking is with only 174k on this and the bolts were so corroded that in case down the road the manifolds have to come off for some reason it could be easily done. Have not done the passenger side and my not for a while. The bolts are no wear as deteriorated as the driver side and I may just clean them up and paint them with a 2k exhaust paint and hope for the best. I would like to know of any tell tail signs of leakage. #8 bolt on the driver side was even broken off flush with the head and could not tell until I got #7 bolt cut off. manifold fell off at that point. The only other thing that concerns me (passenger side) is the sealing surface for the up pipes on the manifold. The new one has a good 3/8" flange around it and the old on maybe 3/16" left. Not much sealing going on there. I did not inspect the passenger side yet though.

 

So if you decide to stamp your own gaskets, this is the kind of route I'd take for material

Or any source for copper shim stock and size you want

Then just take your metal punch for the bolt holes and punch or drill press the exhuast hole. At first i was thinking the rolls of brass shim stock we use to trigger prox switches @ work on conveyor kickers, but copper seems to be the better choice here, although higher priced

 

I don’t see any gasket having a long service life in this application. I would put it back together metal to metal and only ‘fix’ it if it leaks.

Ive removed several sets of failed gaskets and only rarely seen metal to metal leak.

 

OK so how many miles did they get out of them on average? Just concerned that the exhaust gases will work their way through those pits and make a leak and they will continue to grow as the gases deteriorate the metal.