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I didn't think that kind of turbo responsiveness was possible. It says non-intercooled in your sig, Finnish, so maybe that helps? Building boost without that volume in the intake tract has to be easier, but that is just insane. Really, really cool.
Yes,adding an intercooler lowers boost and increases turbo lag but intercooler increases air density and overall efficiency.
I like super responsive turbo,thats why im not adding an intercooler to my T4 HolsetHX50.
I will add water/meth injection if needed..
Ford dealer could densifier those codes ether so he ran the vin. Even though it says heavy duty alt it is a 110 amp. I still like the slightly increased alt to 130 as I don't know what equipment I might add. I won't go crazy but I already bought LED lights for front and back. Don't know anything about charging camper batteries an the fly so that may be a possibility too.
Thanks!
Alternator upgrade is done. Gen 3 and 130 amps. Brand new Bosch from Rock auto around $180 to my front door and no exchange. Had to change the pulley to my old one. Charging nicely now. 14.3 to 14.3 volts. My company had the main pig tail plug and got the stator plug on ebay. The only way we sell them is by 2s so I have an extra. Used 3 extra thick washers to raise the alt from hitting the mount. Soldered the green red wire to the original plug and taped them up good. Left the original plug in in case I'm stuck somewhere and need an alternator fast. All have to to is untape the harness remove the alternator and install a new 110 amp.
Just listed another post that I need the filler piece between the fender and door post on the passenger. Some call it an insulator or silencer. Not available from Ford. Looked all over the net and no luck.
Way back when (June) I had asked about antifreeze coolant. I need to buy some and change it out. Recently I did order a billet thermostat housing and expect it anytime. Some of the gaskets particularly on the oil cooler were so deteriorated they were ready to corrode thru. Everything is stock other the the KC 360 turbo kit. So I read this message from SkySkyjackson and a bit confused. I do have the green stuff in the engine and is what came with the truck when I bought it. Doesn't mean it's the correct stuff. I like the extended service life too but don't have the time to flush everything. Stuck home ill with this Covid thing for a couple weeks and concerned now that the temp is taking a dive that it's going to be at the correct rating. plus I don't want that old stuff eating away at my new gaskets. Please advise.
That **** is an expensive hobby... I ran it for a few years and it cost a damn fortune and caused a lot of frustration. I won’t bore you with the stories - but it’s not worth it. For reliability I want to run something I can get ANYWHERE.
The ‘pink’ is Fleet brand ‘pre-charged’ coolant I run in E99 and older engines. The ‘red’ will be ELC (Final Charge, Rotella ELC, CAT EC1, etc).
<L99 injector cup sealant is not compatible with ELC.
Conventional coolant requires adding and monitoring SCA’s. The pink stuff has SCA in it, but still requires monitoring and adding SCA. It also has a 100k mile service life and system must be properly flushed (block drains must be removed for this).
ELC requires no monitoring or adding SCA and has 350-500k mile service life.
The ELC is only a few $$ more/gallon than conventional or pre-charged.
But, don’t waste your time or money if you can’t do a proper flush. There is over a gallon of nasty stuff down in the block you can’t remove without pulling the block drains.
There is an old adage something like ‘A spoonful of wine in a barrel of sewage is sewage. But a spoonful of sewage in a barrel of wine is also sewage.’
The ELC is only a few $$ more/gallon than conventional or pre-charged.
But, don’t waste your time or money if you can’t do a proper flush. There is over a gallon of nasty stuff down in the block you can’t remove without pulling the block drains.
There is an old adage something like ‘A spoonful of wine in a barrel of sewage is sewage. But a spoonful of sewage in a barrel of wine is also sewage.’
Found this out last weekend... Did ELC a year ago, used a block flushing device from Autozone, did NOT pull block drains. Put in a Mishimoto degas bottle last weekend and when I pulled the old one (it was a year old, replaced when I did the ELC), you should have seen the sludge in that 1 year old Motorcraft degas bottle. It was amazing. Not oil, not fuel, just rust colored film, everywhere. I bought a RiffRaff filter setup and that'll be going in this weekend, with another bucket of ELC. It was an expensive mistake, but man, Jason is right. You almost can't flush that system enough. I'll be removing the block drains this time... (EDIT: I should add that the sludge is not a HG failure. I've seen hundreds of them, and this wasn't that. Just a weird rusty sediment that settled to the bottom of the nooks and crannies).
After collecting the old coolant, I run the water hose in the degas bottle with all the drains open until they run clear. Then drive around block with water in cooling system and repeat. Sometimes, it takes a few times to get all of that nasty sludge out. I think ‘my way’ is in the tech folder? No need for the flush thingy.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
