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Good grief Cody, THAT is some carnage! Any idea what would cause that planetary to separate like that? It's completely sheared. I can't imagine that was just a normal failure of the gear itself.
My best guess is that the OD one way roller clutch came apart and sent its rollers through the gears since it's all housed inside that gearset when assembled. The cage that holds it together is only plastic so it stands to reason that it broke, dropped a roller, and munched itself. It's not a modified pickup either so it wasn't a too-much-power problem. The pictured mess is the part that the input shaft plugs into so once it broke, there was no more go.
Thanks for taking the time to share these details. Im about to start this journey myself having picked up a recently rebuilt hi performance trans with "tons of billet internals". Were going to see.................LOL
Speaking of -- would you be willing to lend out that rear bushing installer? I'd gladly provide a deposit and send it back to you when I'm done. Awfully expensive to buy to install a single bushing!!
I'd send you a PM - but I haven't had enough posts yet
Speaking of -- would you be willing to lend out that rear bushing installer? I'd gladly provide a deposit and send it back to you when I'm done. Awfully expensive to buy to install a single bushing!!
I'd send you a PM - but I haven't had enough posts yet
I sold mine shortly after I finished the rebuild. I don't plan on rebuilding another one of these anytime soon. I agree it's expensive, but it's really your only option if you want to use the one piece bushing unless you fab up your own. Good luck with your rebuild!
Hey everyone -- just about done with my own 4r100 rebuild -- this thread is so amazing!
I came across something that any other home builder should definitely be aware of... the typical aftermarket bushing kits they sell are made to be bored... so the tight fit on the sungear bushings in this build is a feature not a bug. This is how they do them in the factory I think -- they get a bunch of bushings and then put them through a line boring machine to get them "perfect".
I replaced all my bushings and I spent like 3 hours today with my lathe and sandpaper getting the fit I liked on all my bushing surfaces. I suppose a brake cylinder boring tool or something else could work.
Only after I fininshed, I came across this awesome bushing supplier called "Durabond" - they make bushings to the OE spec -- no boring required. The kit for the 4R100 is called TK-39A and it is only marginally more expensive than the complete kit I bought -- about $60 vs $40 depending on where you buy. They make a high performance version (TK-39AHP) version with specially coated bushings too for about $100 -- it looks like a good kit and is probably the way I would have went had I known they existed. If nothing else -- you can look at the TK-39 tech sheet on Durabond's website to get the right "wall thickness" you should be looking.
One of those live and learn moments!
So if you're embarking on your own build and plan on replacing all the bushings -- go with the Durabonds or get ready to spend some time boring out the bushings.
Glad to share -- I'm guessing pro-builders know this info -- but there is so little information on the details of transmission building online.
Also -- I successfully installed the one piece rear bushing with a bushing driver and a hammer. Just go slow -- the Sonnax tool is definitely better, but probably a bit overkill for single use!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
