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I'm sure you probably did Evan flow, but it's still worth mentioning. The collar that receives the 5 bolts that holds the rear piston in needs to be orientated so that that rear output shaft can be lubricated as well. The way you're building it, that thing's going to be so tight it's going to take 5000 miles just to get it loosened up.
I'm sure you probably did Evan flow, but it's still worth mentioning. The collar that receives the 5 bolts that holds the rear piston in needs to be orientated so that that rear output shaft can be lubricated as well. The way you're building it, that thing's going to be so tight it's going to take 5000 miles just to get it loosened up.
I did align the oil feed port in the rear race. Just forgot to mention it. 😬
We'll I'm stuck. Somehow my kit of steels only has a total of 8 for the forward and direct clutch packs. I need a total of 9. ☹️
I ordered an extra from WIT Transmission parts with overnight shipping. Hopefully it gets here tomorrow.
Don't forget to lube all bushing and thrust washers as you assemble the tranny.
Yes. I've been lubing them all.
So I decided to try and flush my trans cooler. I installed a 6.0 dorman one several years ago. I used 2 cans of lube guard trans flush and it still looks gross. I'm going to buy a new one, but it looks like prices have gone up since I bought mine. I remember paying about $150 for my 6.0 cooler. Now it's over $300. Ouch! Is there a cheaper alternative for the 6.0 cooler I'm not aware of?
EDIT: Ok. I found one for a reasonable price. Part number is: FO4050104 . eBay has it for $152 and today they are offering 10% back in eBay Bucks. Way better than $300+ for a Dorman. I also just got my shipping confirmation for WIT Transmissions. I should have my missing steel tomorrow.
Last edited by ebbnflow; Sep 11, 2019 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: Add more info
I made some more good progress today. Got my missing steel overnight-ed from WIT Transmissions. Their overnight charges are outrageous. They charged me $5 over UPS Retail prices. I'm sure it cost them at least 1/2 that. The $5 steel I needed cost me over $80 after shipping. If I had known this before I ordered, I might have gone a different route. Live and learn I guess. Check out what I got done today.
Direct Clutch Drum install below:
Got to use my first part in the Transgo Tugger Kit. The white striped direct clutch seal.
If you look closely, you can see the white stripe of the seal down in the outer bore.
Direct clutch piston installed.
Using the spring compressor to get the snap ring on that holds the piston spring cage.
Direct clutch frictions and steels installed. Clearance came out at 0.054, right int he middle of the spec.
New thrust washer for the Intermediate sprag.
45 element sprag ready to be installed.
Center support install below:
Comparison of the machined center support next to the stock one. The machine one is on top.
Comparison of the machined center support next to the stock one. The machined one is on the left.
Sonnax center support gasket 36743G. My original center support had no gasket at all.
Pressure checking this clutch pack on my original center support. This did not go well as most of the air bled around the center support hub. I think I found the cause of all the metal in my trans.
These metal sealing washers on the original center support hub that seal against the direct clutch are worn out. This allowed hydraulic pressure to bleed off instead of applying it to the intermediate clutch pack. The intermediate clutch pack could not fully apply causing slip, heat and metal sludge.
Pressure checking the direct clutch pack.
Direct and Intermediate Clutch Pack Install into the trans below:
Direct clutch drum installed in the trans.
Intermediate clutch drum installed in the trans. Make sure it is seated all the way onto the sun shell by looking through here.
Intermediate clutch drum and intermediate band installed in the trans.
More frictions and steels ready to go in.
Center Support install below:
Sonnax snap ring for the machined center support.
Center support installed.
Sonnax center support shims.
The shims are 0.20 and were too thick to install. I had to sand it down to 0.18 to get it to fit.
You can see the shim installed in the bottom of the photo. This prevents case deflection when you tighten the 2 lower feed bolts.
The 2 lower feed bolts installed.
4th Gear Clutch Pack install below:
This is the 2nd piece of the Transgo Tugger kit I installed and by far the hardest part of this entire rebuild so far. The 4th gear clutch snap ring is prone to popping off. This snap ring fixes that problem.
It took me over an hour to get this installed. Lots of trial and error until I came up with this setup. I turned the foot around on the spring compressor so I could squeeze a section, work the snap ring in a bit. Rinse and repeat until it was all the way in.
Spiral snap ring installed.
Placed in the trans, but not installed yet.
Make sure you align the upper feed bolt hole before you compress it.
You have to compress it with the transmissionbench home made tool to install a snap ring.
Once the snap ring is installed, you can install the upper feed bolt.
This is really just cool to see. One question....those washers that you said were worn out on the center support....did they get replaced? And did it hold air after? Also, how's your timeline coming along? Thanks.
This is really just cool to see. One question....those washers that you said were worn out on the center support....did they get replaced? And did it hold air after? Also, how's your timeline coming along? Thanks.
I replaced the entire center support hub and used new washers, then the clutch pack held air and applied like it's supposed to. I initially bought the new center support hub to have a new bearing without the need to R/R the bearing in my original one. I think my original hub is fine and new sealing washers should have fixed the problem, but I didn't test this theory. This is taking longer than I expected, but I hope to have all done and reinstalled in my truck by early next week.
So...as you go through this do you understand what all those things do or are you just following directions and ensuring that you're doing it as instructed? I gots to know.
So...as you go through this do you understand what all those things do or are you just following directions and ensuring that you're doing it as instructed? I gots to know.
Annnnnnd Mark asking the good questions. I am wondering as well.
So...as you go through this do you understand what all those things do or are you just following directions and ensuring that you're doing it as instructed? I gots to know.
I have an mechanical / electrical engineering background so I have a strong desire to understand it all. Although if I only had the ATSG manual, I don't think I would have mustered up the courage to take this project on. The videos by transmission bench are what solidified it for me. Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, so a video series on the 4R100 must be worth at least one million.
I hit another snag today when I realized that the Kolene steels kit is missing an OD clutch steel too. My kit only has 2 and I need 3. Had to order one and wait until Monday to get it. I did receive a used pump I ordered on eBay and it is in worse shape than mine is. Sending it back for a refund. After looking at pics online of pump guts and a closer inspection of the one in the transmission bench videos, i decided mine is OK and rebuilt it today with Sonnax and Transgo parts. I also disassembled and cleaned up the overdrive planetary and coast clutch assembly. Tomorrow I plan to start on the valve body area and possibly finish cleaning the lines and OTW cooler in the radiator.
This is the tool I made to remove the plug holding in the front lube / drainback valve.
Here it is in place on the pump.
You can see the original valve on the bottom is made of plastic and can melt if the trans overheats. The one from Sonnax is metal.
Here are the 3 valves in the pump. The parts in the bag on the bottom is the PWM to ON/OFF conversion kit from Transgo. I thought I took a pic of all the Transgo parts that went back in, but somehow I didn't. The parts with K's next to them are the only parts that went back in. Everything else was replaced with Transgo Tugger parts.
Front seal removal.
Converter hub bushing knocked out.
New bushing about to be installed.
New front seal installed.
Aligning the 2 pump halves with 2 worm gear clamps hooked together. Jimmy at the transmission bench says to use 2 7" worm clamps, but they were too big to clamp the pump, so I had to improvise with a shorter worm clamp I had on hand.
I got a lot more done to thanks to having the whole day to myself. I rebuilt and installed the coast clutch and overdrive planetary assemblies. I also cleaned and rebuilt all the valve bodies with Transgo parts and found some interesting things as well as something that's broken. Check it out.
Coast clutch rebuild and installation:
Coast clutch drum with new bonded piston installed.
To install the spring cage, you need to use a spring compressor to get the snap ring in its groove.
Snap ring installed.
Overdrive roller cage installed.
New frictions and steels for the coast clutch. Jimmy at the transmission bench says diesels usually have 3 frictions/steels, but mine only has 2.
The Transgo Tugger kit comes with a new snap ring for the coast clutch.
You need to grind about a 1/16" off the flat end to get it to fit.
A nice tight fit. This snap ring is not coming out any time soon.
You have to install the coast clutch and overdrive planetary together. Insert long snap ring pliers to catch the inner splines on the overdrive planetary so you can pick the whole assembly up from the top side.
Coast clutch and overdrive planetary installed in the trans. This is as far as I can go until I get my missing overdrive steel. Should be here on Monday or Tuesday.
BTS accumulator valve body rebuild:
Since I am at a standstill on the drive train, I decided to clean and rebuild the valve bodies. This is my BTS accumulater valve body. You can see they use the upgraded Transgo steel line regulator valves for 3rd and 4th. The stock ones are aluminum and are prone to sticking in their bores.
2nd gear accumulator is at the top. You can see the steel valve is also in this one. Can you see what is wrong in this photo?
The large spring in the 2nd gear bore is broken in 2 places. That's not good!
BTS also put the springs in the wrong places for 3rd and 4th gear. The top one should have 3 springs and the bottom should have 4. They must have put this one together on a Friday afternoon or maybe it's some kind of secret sauce??
BTS did drill 2 holes in the line mod valve like the Transgo instructions call out.
New Transgo parts ready to go in the 3rd and 4th accumulator bores.
New Transgo parts ready to go in for 2nd gear and the line mod valve.
View from a distance.
Steel plate modifications:
Transgo says to drill out some holes in the steel plate that gets sandwiched between the valve bodies.
Here are the instructions for what to drill.
Here is the plate orifice that gets installed.
You have to insert it from the top side, flip the plate over and get it to stay by pounding on a steel ball.
The steel ball flares the backside of the plate orifice so it won't fall out.
Plate orifice installed.
Calibration plate modifications:
BTS calibration plate on top. Transgo on the bottom. BTS must use their own secret sauce because the hole sizes in their plate do not jive with the Transgo instructions.
Since I am putting in a low stall converter, the Transgo instructions say to drill out the holes for a V6.
Main valve body rebuild:
I have a type 2 main valve body, so the Trango instructions say to drill a 0.110 hole here.
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