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Hooked up the ipr air fitting . Not really sure what to do. I will say when I shut the air off it pretty much goes down in pressure pretty quick. With the oil filter below by the trans on Van's, are you still supposed to be able to hear gurgling there?
You have to close the IPR otherwise the air will just dump into the crankcase.
Closing the IPR can be done any or a few different ways. You can command it
closed with software in one of the tools like Forscan or with a VCM2 and the
you can apply power and ground to the valve for short periods of time (2 minutes I think)
or you can use a tool made for closing the valve. The final way is. the air fitting
that takes the place of the valve so you can apply air without having to deal
with powering the valve to close it.
It should hold air for a little bit in all the injector spool valves are in the closed state.
If all the FICM connectors are hooked up run one pre-start injector clatter and then turn the key off.
After that you may have better luck with it holding air. You might try a short 1/2" pipe to listen for
any air leaking sounds like with a stethoscope. You may want to remove the PCV and oil fill
from the valve covers to listed into each side. It will take a little bit for the oil rails to clear of oil
when the oil is cold.
Keep the air flowing. In addition to the places Sean mentioned, also listen at the oil filter housing. It still applies for vans. You can add the turbo oil feed and oil drain lines to the list of where to listen.
Since it won't hold pressure, you already have a leak path!
Even the updated plugs could leak. Your better off verifying than to assuming that something is good.
I would be willing to bet every mechanic has in there life been bitting by that at least once.
True...and I didnt touch the nipples on the rails. Kids have my nights tied up for the rest of the week. I should be able to spend some qt with the van this weekend.
The O'Reilly's hpops showed up today. They ordered both hp15(2004.5) & hp16(2003/2004) model. So I could compare and make sure which was correct. They looked the exact same. Lol .... Both models had been tapped and a plug vs the ball bearing. I had them priced so sweet because of the discounts I kind of wish it was the 03/04 style. I had it down to $386 but the 04.5 i got for $480. This tapping must be why they are going with a lifetime
If you read the link to the article I posted, the author states that the ball bearing falling out was a symptom, not a root cause. Of course that is assumes that the author knew what he was talking about. Anyway, just be sure to clean the system and prime it very well.
I did see that...I also watched a dieseltech ron video where he said he did that on 2 broken down pumps and it worked for one of them. And to try it if you're willing to do it twice lol. Reading the comments in it he said one just blew the bearing into the motor
here's the unboxing..came with oem orings
here's my repair view...any suggestions to lessen removals will be awesome. I bought an Ebay egr delete kit but wont use it. But that orange hose looks like crap off the egr cooler and may use the blue hose that came with it. . I'll probably have my buddy weld the cooler up
Now i know why i like my open hood truck. Man that has to be a m_____ f_____to work on.
On the turbow cleaning its not hard. DEISEL Tech Ron has a very good short video on it.
Now i know why i like my open hood truck. Man that has to be a m_____ f_____to work on.
On the turbow cleaning its not hard. DEISEL Tech Ron has a very good short video on it.
Believe it or not, turbo removal on an E-Series is not all that bad. The hardest part is to remove the turbo air inlet and outlet tubes. But once they're removed, the turbo itself can be finessed out with only a slight effort. Once the turbo is out, access to the HPOP is fairly simple.
Now i know why i like my open hood truck. Man that has to be a m_____ f_____to work on.
On the turbow cleaning its not hard. DEISEL Tech Ron has a very good short video on it.
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