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Cylinder problem valvetrain?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
Thanks guys!
Charged the AC yesterday and put the front end back on. It looks like a pickup again!
I think I have an exhaust leak though. I can hear it while the truck is idling when the veins clamp down. Sounds like an air leak from the back of the engine. I'll have to get under there and see if it is leaking at the manifolds or if it is at the turbo to y pipe connection.
I took it on a short test drive yesterday and man did I miss driving this pickup! The real test will be when I head out to North Dakota this weekend. Cross fingers!
Charged the AC yesterday and put the front end back on. It looks like a pickup again!
I think I have an exhaust leak though. I can hear it while the truck is idling when the veins clamp down. Sounds like an air leak from the back of the engine. I'll have to get under there and see if it is leaking at the manifolds or if it is at the turbo to y pipe connection.
I took it on a short test drive yesterday and man did I miss driving this pickup! The real test will be when I head out to North Dakota this weekend. Cross fingers!
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
loosen turbo pedestal bolts
loosen turbo mounting bolts
loosen y pipe to turbo clamp
loosen down pipe clamp
loosen exhaust manifold to y pipe bolts
Seat the y pipe to turbo connection and tighten clamp
seat downpipe to turbo connection and tighten clamp
tighten exhaust manifold to up/y pipe bolts
tighten turbo mounting bolts
tighten turbo pedestal bolts
Do this and you will not have an issue again unless you have a burr on the connection points which can and has happened to me and others!
This method ensures your joints are seated and clamped first and mounting bolts last. If you tighten turbo and pedestal bolts first then try to line up your y pipe and down pipe you are fighting the lack of “give/play” at the turbo mounts. You should NEVER use the v band clamps to suck the flanges together. The flanges should line up parallel and flush with no force.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
I finally got the y pipe lined up and had to do exactly what you said.
It wasn't until I loosened up the pedestal that I got everything to seat.
Also built a boost leak detector and found the map hose was leaking at the intake. It was old and hard. I replaced the hose and everything is sealed up.
Took the truck home last night and back this morning to work so about 85 miles and it feels pretty good. Has a little bit of a shake at times so I'll have to dig into that but it is road worthy!
It wasn't until I loosened up the pedestal that I got everything to seat.
Also built a boost leak detector and found the map hose was leaking at the intake. It was old and hard. I replaced the hose and everything is sealed up.
Took the truck home last night and back this morning to work so about 85 miles and it feels pretty good. Has a little bit of a shake at times so I'll have to dig into that but it is road worthy!
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
That's kind of what I was figuring. It didn't seem as bad this morning. Once the RPMs come up and you get moving it smooths out. New fuel probably wouldn't hurt either - the stuff in the tank was from October 2018.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I finally got the y pipe lined up and had to do exactly what you said.
It wasn't until I loosened up the pedestal that I got everything to seat.
Also built a boost leak detector and found the map hose was leaking at the intake. It was old and hard. I replaced the hose and everything is sealed up.
Took the truck home last night and back this morning to work so about 85 miles and it feels pretty good. Has a little bit of a shake at times so I'll have to dig into that but it is road worthy!
It wasn't until I loosened up the pedestal that I got everything to seat.
Also built a boost leak detector and found the map hose was leaking at the intake. It was old and hard. I replaced the hose and everything is sealed up.
Took the truck home last night and back this morning to work so about 85 miles and it feels pretty good. Has a little bit of a shake at times so I'll have to dig into that but it is road worthy!
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 323
Likes: 18
From: Lebanon, MO
Shows it on page 5/5:
https://mobile.powerstrokediesel.com...o_HowtoUse.pdf
Also found this:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c1ea71b59.jpg
https://mobile.powerstrokediesel.com...o_HowtoUse.pdf
Also found this:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c1ea71b59.jpg
I didn't give permission... oh wait, I don't really care.
But seriously, I never found out why that engine has a strange serial number.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...al-number.html
OP, glad to see your truck is up and running again.
Yeah I know, dragging my feet again reading posts 3 weeks behind.
Kevin
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
Hey Sean
The engine I got came out of a 2010 Van. I swapped the following:
Upper oil pan
Lower oil pan
Front cover w/ water pump
Motor mounts
Intake
Oil cooler/standpipes
Injectors (I wanted to use mine which I know how old they are as compared to unknown van injectors)
Dip stick tube
HPOP was the same but I verified that the updated fitting was already installed
Turbo/pedestal - I don't think there was a difference, just wanted to use mine which was known good
Valve covers
Wiring harnesses
I used the van heads but had them machined and put my studs in with OEM gaskets
I had the 2 engines sitting on stands near each other and just swapped parts over until I had a complete engine.
I used the harbor freight 2 ton engine stands and they worked well
The engine I got came out of a 2010 Van. I swapped the following:
Upper oil pan
Lower oil pan
Front cover w/ water pump
Motor mounts
Intake
Oil cooler/standpipes
Injectors (I wanted to use mine which I know how old they are as compared to unknown van injectors)
Dip stick tube
HPOP was the same but I verified that the updated fitting was already installed
Turbo/pedestal - I don't think there was a difference, just wanted to use mine which was known good
Valve covers
Wiring harnesses
I used the van heads but had them machined and put my studs in with OEM gaskets
I had the 2 engines sitting on stands near each other and just swapped parts over until I had a complete engine.
I used the harbor freight 2 ton engine stands and they worked well
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Fordbronco69
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Sep 20, 2008 07:52 AM