1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

7.3 no start continued

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Old 12-03-2017, 10:18 AM
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7.3 no start continued

I think my other thread died off so I'm starting a new one with all updates. I own a 1997 f-350 7.3 cc/lb. It has new 160cc injectors and glow plugs were replaced with injectors by previous owner this year. Truck does have a ts 6 position switch with gearhead tunes. So for the past 2 weeks I have been having a crank no start issue. I have gone through absolutely everything to check. I have tach while cranking, I have unplugged the icp sensor, I have checked the oil in the hpop it is where it needs to be, i have checked the fpr for any damage on the inside, I have put my idm on a different truck and that truck started just fine with my idm hooked up. The only thing I havent checked is the ipr because this is where I'm at. The Wednesday before thanksgiving for the first time after playing run around and checking all these things I finally got spark the truck was trying to fire but would not start all the way up. I left that night was off work for thanksgiving and then back to work Friday. I put new batteries in it starting to believe that may have been the issue following the no start trouble shooting guide. Following the new batteries I tried to fire her up again and I was back to where I was previously no smoke no fuel no start. So this past tuesday I had a diesel tech come out and tell me it was the lift pump. So yesterday I replaced the lift pump cleaned out the gunk from the fuel bowl inspected the fpr everything checked out so I threw it all back together. I cranked it over with no luck bled the Schrader valve. Let the starter cool down and repeated these steps. I finally upon pumping the throttle began to get spark again. So repeated previous steps. The last time I cranked it it almost fired and then poof back to just a plane crank. So i popped the schrader valve back open and had no pressure and air back in the system. What could be causing this I'm at a loss and completely stumped please help.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:58 AM
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So you have the correct pressure now since lift pump has been replaced? Some say that removing the chip until truck is running correctly is a good idea. I thought you had put in your last thread that you finally got a scanner to pull codes. Is that correct?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:11 PM
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I am getting pressure can hear it when cracking the Schrader valve. But not getting fuel. I got it to the point I had a bit of fuel coming out and thought I was starting to get all the air out of the system. The last time I cranked it it almost fired then just went back to a plain crank with no smoke. Check the Schrader valve again and had no pressure. The lift pump is new. No I didn' get a scanner hooked up I have torque pro with a Bluetooth obd2 scanner but when I plug it in it says it is not compatible.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:28 PM
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How much fuel is in the tank?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:30 PM
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Tank is practically full and only the front tank works so I can' switch tanks to see if it would be different.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:34 PM
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By all means, yes, REMOVE (don't just "set to stock") the chip, just to take it off the suspect list.

Pumping the accelerator pedal does nothing. The pedal is just a variable resistor. Pumping it is like playing with the volume control on your stereo before turning it on.

Did you MEASURE the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the FPR while cranking?

Folks have gotten Torque Pro to communicate with our trucks. Over on "the Nation", there's a sticky thread at the top of the OBS PSD section. Extremely long thread with lots of PIDs for various data. But IIRC, Torque Pro only reads data. For codes, you need Car Gauge Pro.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:38 PM
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I will unhook the chip next and rule that out. No I have not tried it while cranking. I guess I've just been to stumped on trying to figure out how to actually prime the system. Does the lift pump pull fuel when the key is just in the on position? Or does it only pull fuel while cranking? I will check out that thread I have the powerstroke pids for torque pro.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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The mechanical lift pump works from the cam lobe coming up and hitting the tappet on the bottom of the pump. It only works of the engine is moving. It does take some time to get the air out the system but you need to make sure your getting fuel pressure. Just be careful not to burn your starter up from cranking.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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The lift pump is mechanical, (it will transfer fuel when the engine is turning over via the camshaft lobe). Try hooking up a separate fuel line from the suvtion port of the lift pump to a gallon of diesel fuel, (this will bypass your tank and eliminate them in case there is an obstruction some where).

madpogue, I sent you a pm a while ago, PM me back please.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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Manual pump. Only gets and sends fuel while cranking or running.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:04 PM
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It's a mechanical pump. It can only possibly pump while the engine is turning.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:06 PM
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So what are some quicker ways to get that air out and if I'm not getting pressure what else could cause it?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:09 PM
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Also when you take the filter cap off do you have diesel fuel in it. The last time I changed mine I filled it with trans fluid, cranked, filled it again, cranked. Finally started. You can use diesel fuel as well.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:17 PM
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I haven' checked since last night currently waiting on my boy to get picked up so I can go back out and mess with it and I will be checking that I had to fill it up after replacing the pump but haven' checked it after all the cranking
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:21 PM
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When cranking for a bit is there any fuel in the bowl, 1/4, 1/2 or anything.

Inside the bowl on drivers side there is a hole near the top. Inside that hole there is a screen that can clog with debris. The purpose of the hole is to vent air back to the tank. You can clean that screen by gently scraping it with something. Haven't read you original thread so maybe you already did this.

Some have had success filling the bowl with diesel first, install the filter and lid, then crank. Sometimes this will get the engine running long enough and at a higher RPM than cranking and get the pump pulling / pushing fuel at a higher rate. It also eliminate any initial air trapped inside the bowl.
 


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