So I'm with the truck. Replaced fuel filter. So new question do my batteries control what the cps will do? If I crank the truck over with no charger hooked to the batteries I get no tach but if i hook a charger up and put it on jump I will get Rach and the truck will either want to fire up and it did fire up but I had to stay on the throttle when I let off and the battery charger kicked I lost all tach and the truck died again and every time the battery charger kicks off before it starts I loose tach and don' get anything so is this a sign of bad batteries or the cps itself. I recently changed the batteries but it has been very cold here and they have seen a lot of cranking.

 

Yes, everything electrical depends on good battery voltage. If the voltage is too low, the starter will still crank (albeit slow), but the PCM won't energize. The CPS is probably fine, but the PCM is simply not processing the signal when it's on batteries alone. The batteries are weak. Get a good charge into them with your charger. If your charger is an automatic one, don't try to start it until the charger detects a full charge. If the batteries still do this after a good charge, they're probably not holding a charge and should be replaced.

This is very similar to what happened to my truck when the batteries got weak. It wasn't in a place where I could connect a charger. I had to put a jump box on each battery. Once it started, I had to hold the go-pedal to keep the revs up until it ran long enough (aprx. 2 minutes) for the glow plugs to cycle off. Then it was able to run off the alternator. This allowed me to back it into the driveway and fully charge the batteries. Now it starts normally.

 

well they are rural king batteries so not great by any means I'm on my way to have them tested and maybe replaced. I also have the block heater plugged in even though it hasn' been that cold just to double check

 

well I got two new batteries. Plugged the block heater in before I left just to see if it would help got back threw the new batteries in unplugged the block heater and tried to fire her up. With no avail yet again I had tach with the new batteries but got no smoke or anything cranks over really fast and hard but just doesn't want to fire now any ideas.

 

Is it still leaking fuel like a screen door on a submarine?

 

no sir new filter fixed that right up

 

Alright, forgive the repeated questions, but I feel at this point it is probably best we go back to square one and go one step at a time. Just answer each question one at a time and humor me.

Do we know that it is making fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the pressure regulator now? If you don't have a good way to test it, I recommend getting one of these kits and fastening it in place so you can test it while you're working your way through the process. Spending money on tools is usually a good investment.
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html

Next step is batteries and it sounds like you have that covered. Keep a charger on them to keep them charged up and topped off while you're going through this process. It'll help keep cranking speeds up and keep the batteries from dying a premature death due to the abuse they're taking right now.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a voltmeter on the batteries (or in the cigarette lighter port, for that matter) so you can see what the voltage is while cranking. There is a threshold below which the PCM won't function and if the starter or something else on the truck is drawing too much amperage, the PCM could be cutting out due to that issue.

After we verify fuel pressure and battery voltage, the next step is for us to start looking at the HPO system. Do you have a physical gauge we could connect or a scan tool that will let us see what the PCM is seeing from the ICP? If you don't have a scan tool, I recommend Torque Pro if you have an Android phone. For around $30 you can set yourself up with a scanner that will pull the data we need to troubleshoot this condition.

One more question. Where are you located? It's not on your profile and if you're nearby to another member on the site here, it's sometimes a lot easier to have another set of eyes on the situation. Sometimes we are so close to the issue we are blinded by it...

 

I completely understand where you're coming from lol yes I have fuel pressure I have checked numerous times. If it helps yesterday when I changed the filter the bowl was low on fuel and I didn't even top it off put the filter in and just cranked bowl filled on its own and once I got enough voltage to the batteries for the cps to function properly the truck fired. This morning when I got to work and the block heater had not been plugged In and oil had got cold again I tried it and poof I had smoke again. Now from my understanding when it will fire when cold but not when warm that points to a bad hpop

 

also no I do not have a scanner that will read my truck nor a mechanical gauge. I am located in indiana if there is anyone around the area to lend a helping hand.

 

I also have torque pro but can not get anything to work on it

 

Well I finally figured out how to work torque pro and this is the results.

 

Yes!! Now we're getting somewhere.

The 84% IPR duty cycle means the IPR is more or less maxed out trying to build pressure, and the HPOP is only making 379 PSI (which isn't enough to fire the truck). Somebody else correct me if I'm wrong but it runs in my memory that 500 PSI at the ICP is needed for the PCM to fire the injectors. Then again, your gauges there are showing that the injectors are being fired (at a really high fueling rate of 424 ms??) so that may not really be the issue.

I think we ignore the HPO system for right now and look elsewhere and here's why. First of all, you're getting smoke, and have gotten the truck to run a couple times.

Second, the glaring problem with what you're showing there is the battery voltage. 10.5 is really low, especially for brand new batteries. Are they well charged?

Is your fuel bowl heater unplugged? I would unplug it, if it is not. It has happened before that the heater will contact ground just enough to dip the PCM voltage, but not well enough to blow the fuse that controls them both (Maxi fuse 22 under the hood). It will be the middle wiring connector on the side of the fuel bowl. Single wire. You can pry it off with a slotted screwdriver. Try that if you haven't already.

What does that battery voltage reading go to when you leave the key in the "run" position but are not cranking the engine?

I'm wondering if you don't have a large parasitic drain on the truck somewhere that dips the voltage low enough that the PCM won't run. That would make sense as to why it will run with the jump box on it, but quits as soon as the jump box is disconnected or times out. Try those things and then report back. I think we're making some progress now.

 

Actually, 10.5V is not that low WHILE cranking, esp. if the GPs are still on. But it still might be cranking too slow. See if you can get RPM on that monitor. Indeed, it could be cranking too slow, or voltage too low to fire the injectors.

If it were a fuse #22 problem, there would be no PCM communication.

 

what you're seeing from the injectors is the injector pulse width and from what I read is just the amount of time the injectors are open. I believe also from what I've read the battery voltage should be at least 10.5 volts and that's what is needed to start the truck. Mind you now upon changing batteries my tach has been operating as it should be 2 to 300 rpms while cranking and even though it won't stay running Sunday after I plugged the block heater in I was getting no smoke what so ever. This to me since the truck actually isn't running resembles a cold start but won't start when warm which does lead back too hpop. I have the ford pids on toque pro if anyone recomends any gauges to add that I don't have on mine so far.

 

also the reason for the injector pulse width being so high is because I was holding the pedal to the floor.