7.3 no start continued
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From: Sayreville, NJ
i agree, remove the chip and try it that way
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I have been following this thread and I believe it is either bad NEW IPR or weak HPOP.. You could block off the oil lines and deadhead the HPOP and check ICP. One other possibility is the IPR is not getting voltage at the connector.
If still low there is a test plug that can be inserted in place of the IPR and check just the HPOP with out the IPR
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/259.html
If still low there is a test plug that can be inserted in place of the IPR and check just the HPOP with out the IPR
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/259.html
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yes the chip had been hooked back up but the truck fired with the chip? I will remove it this weekend and retry
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Post Fiend
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From: Orrville, Ohio
That injector pulse width makes sense if it's microseconds. It would be . 4 milliseconds, which makes sense.
If there is a chip in the equation, step one should have been to remove it from the PCM. Don't just unplug the switch, remove the chip from the PCM. I didn't realize the truck was chipped or I would have suggested that long ago.
If there is a chip in the equation, step one should have been to remove it from the PCM. Don't just unplug the switch, remove the chip from the PCM. I didn't realize the truck was chipped or I would have suggested that long ago.
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That injector pulse width makes sense if it's microseconds. It would be . 4 milliseconds, which makes sense.
If there is a chip in the equation, step one should have been to remove it from the PCM. Don't just unplug the switch, remove the chip from the PCM. I didn't realize the truck was chipped or I would have suggested that long ago.
If there is a chip in the equation, step one should have been to remove it from the PCM. Don't just unplug the switch, remove the chip from the PCM. I didn't realize the truck was chipped or I would have suggested that long ago.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
Batteries getting weak. Temp dropping (presumably EOT aprx. = outside temp).
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ok so colder temp than yesterday batts drop and so does tach but hpop goes up almost to fire rate? Why would the colder weather and thicker oil cause a better chance of the truck starting?
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so does that point at the hpop? If I get that kind of response but can't while it's warm
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orrville, Ohio
Not necessarily. It could just as easily be leaking injector o-rings or the IPR.
I really don't think there is much else for us to do here until you pull that chip out and try it. You should be able to do it without removing the PCM. Three 12mm (I think) nuts to remove the emergency brake pedal, and you should be able to pull the chip with the PCM in the truck.
The other troubleshooting steps to pinpoint either a HPO leak or a bad HPOP will all be more involved and difficult than pulling the chip, and had we known there was a chip, we would likely have suggested that first. A loose or faulty chip is one of the most frequent causes of a no-start.
I really don't think there is much else for us to do here until you pull that chip out and try it. You should be able to do it without removing the PCM. Three 12mm (I think) nuts to remove the emergency brake pedal, and you should be able to pull the chip with the PCM in the truck.
The other troubleshooting steps to pinpoint either a HPO leak or a bad HPOP will all be more involved and difficult than pulling the chip, and had we known there was a chip, we would likely have suggested that first. A loose or faulty chip is one of the most frequent causes of a no-start.
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Not necessarily. It could just as easily be leaking injector o-rings or the IPR.
I really don't think there is much else for us to do here until you pull that chip out and try it. You should be able to do it without removing the PCM. Three 12mm (I think) nuts to remove the emergency brake pedal, and you should be able to pull the chip with the PCM in the truck.
The other troubleshooting steps to pinpoint either a HPO leak or a bad HPOP will all be more involved and difficult than pulling the chip, and had we known there was a chip, we would likely have suggested that first. A loose or faulty chip is one of the most frequent causes of a no-start.
I really don't think there is much else for us to do here until you pull that chip out and try it. You should be able to do it without removing the PCM. Three 12mm (I think) nuts to remove the emergency brake pedal, and you should be able to pull the chip with the PCM in the truck.
The other troubleshooting steps to pinpoint either a HPO leak or a bad HPOP will all be more involved and difficult than pulling the chip, and had we known there was a chip, we would likely have suggested that first. A loose or faulty chip is one of the most frequent causes of a no-start.
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the injectors were done early 2017 I've pulled one valve cover and everything looked good underneath. The ipr is new and now that it is wired correctly I've been getting response from it not saying either of those could be an issue but imo I think everything there is fine. I have had the truck apart and back together now numerous times. I will try pulling the chip and see what that does when I have the time we have been super busy at work due to the ground thawing out. So it's hit and miss when I can get the time right now.