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The pedal does nothing while cranking. It's like turning the volume up on a stereo that's not turned on. The PCM controls pretty much everything while cranking. It's the 379 psi HPOP (presumably ICP) that's the concern. Either the engine isn't cranking fast enough for the HPOP to build the needed pressure, or there's an HPOP problem. I wonder, too, if it might be an ICP sensor issue. Might be worth disconnecting the ICP; that forces a default pressure, and it MIGHT start.
There's a thread on Torque Pro for the OBS here on FTE, and a VERY long sticky thread on "the Nation".
The pedal does nothing while cranking. It's like turning the volume up on a stereo that's not turned on. The PCM controls pretty much everything while cranking. It's the 379 psi HPOP (presumably ICP) that's the concern. Either the engine isn't cranking fast enough for the HPOP to build the needed pressure, or there's an HPOP problem. I wonder, too, if it might be an ICP sensor issue. Might be worth disconnecting the ICP; that forces a default pressure, and it MIGHT start.
There's a thread on Torque Pro for the OBS here on FTE, and a VERY long sticky thread on "the Nation".
the pedal makes the injectors open while driving that's why I said that is why the injector pulse width is high in the picture above. I have tried with icp unplugged still nothing icp and pigtail is new. I don' get any change now I haven't put the scanner on the truck and read it while icp is unplugged. But the truck cranks very fast probably faster than it did when it was running.
If it were a fuse #22 problem, there would be no PCM communication.
Good call. That hadn't occurred to me.
Originally Posted by Matt5214
what you're seeing from the injectors is the injector pulse width and from what I read is just the amount of time the injectors are open. I believe also from what I've read the battery voltage should be at least 10.5 volts and that's what is needed to start the truck. Mind you now upon changing batteries my tach has been operating as it should be 2 to 300 rpms while cranking and even though it won't stay running Sunday after I plugged the block heater in I was getting no smoke what so ever. This to me since the truck actually isn't running resembles a cold start but won't start when warm which does lead back too hpop. I have the ford pids on toque pro if anyone recomends any gauges to add that I don't have on mine so far.
Originally Posted by Matt5214
also the reason for the injector pulse width being so high is because I was holding the pedal to the floor.
I know what the injector pulsewidth means, but that's still a STUPID high number for injector pulsewidth unless the scale is messed up somehow and it is showing nanoseconds instead of milliseconds. Just as a comparison, data logging my truck on a hard tow injector pulsewidth never gets above 4ms (it ranges from around 1.1ms at idle to 3.8ms at WOT on a hard run - and that's with a pretty aggressive tune and stage 1 injectors). Your reading is 100 times that high, which just seems odd to me.
The only thing I would recommend that you don't already have on there is RPM. That RPM number will also tell us whether the PCM is getting a solid signal from the CPS as well.
I know what the injector pulsewidth means, but that's still a STUPID high number for injector pulsewidth unless the scale is messed up somehow and it is showing nanoseconds instead of milliseconds. Just as a comparison, data logging my truck on a hard tow injector pulsewidth never gets above 4ms (it ranges from around 1.1ms at idle to 3.8ms at WOT on a hard run - and that's with a pretty aggressive tune and stage 1 injectors). Your reading is 100 times that high, which just seems odd to me.
The only thing I would recommend that you don't already have on there is RPM. That RPM number will also tell us whether the PCM is getting a solid signal from the CPS as well.
idk what the reading on the pulse width is here is a pic of what it shows and here is a current pic of what all I have set up now for my gauges and I'll post a better picture of what all readings I get tonight.
Yeah, that gauge is indicating 424 milliseconds. Just seems odd...
Let me just ask too, since I don't think I ever heard the whole story....How did this all start? Truck just didn't start one day or did this start following a repair? Has the truck ever run since you've had it? Just kinda hard to follow since the conversation started in a previous thread and I wasn't a part of it.
Yeah, that gauge is indicating 424 milliseconds. Just seems odd...
Let me just ask too, since I don't think I ever heard the whole story....How did this all start? Truck just didn't start one day or did this start following a repair? Has the truck ever run since you've had it? Just kinda hard to follow since the conversation started in a previous thread and I wasn't a part of it.
I guess 424 ms is 0.424 of a second but like I said that was with the pedal to the floor. I bought this truck November 25th 2017 would not have bought it if I thought I was gonna have some major issues the first week but oh well things happen. Any how I drove the truck that Sunday through Friday with no issues. Now here is the kicker it fired right up Friday morning no issues kicked on the high idle tune to let her warm up for a minute. Left to take my boy to the sitters took it out of high idle and about my day I went. Got to work shut the truck off and headed out in my work truck. When I returned that evening I got in it fired it up kicked on high idle clocked out shot the sxxx with my supervisor for a second then headed out again taking it off high idle. Didn't even make it 2 minutes down the road shifted into 5th gear was about to start cruising and it just up and died on me with no restart. Been down ever since have a loan out on it just made my second payment and haven't even drove it a whole week.
I have been following this thread and I believe it is either bad NEW IPR or weak HPOP.. You could block off the oil lines and deadhead the HPOP and check ICP. One other possibility is the IPR is not getting voltage at the connector.
If still low there is a test plug that can be inserted in place of the IPR and check just the HPOP with out the IPR https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/259.html
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