In post 54 you said you tried to pull start and it locked up the rear end. What gear were you in?

 

I replaced with a motorcraft cps and battery connections are clean no corrosion. Yesterday I had the block heater plugged in but the damn Amish that are building my bosses new barn unplugged it to run are salamander. So why would the starter still crank even if it was bad?

 

It can still turn the engine but not fast enough. It can also pull to much power amps.

 

Did you pull the chip?

 

Alright well I'm selling my old car tonight and that will fund the starter so out of pocket I'm not throwing money at it yet and yes chip is pulled

 

I didn't read back to the beginning on the post so:
1. The block heater helps especially when it cold because the oil gets thick and slows the engine down when cranking. If you can get the truck in a heated environment that would help and for you when working.
2 if you have been cranking on the engine a lot have you put the batteries on a charger? Even if new you're going to drain them.
3 I know you said you had fuel pressure but didn't you say it was 12 when cranking. I don't know the answer to this, but is that too low?

 

I have had a industrial salamander running the last 2 nights and need to get the block heater plugged in plan on doing that tomorrow. I have had the batteries on a charge every time and still seems like the engine will crank faster at times and slower at other times. Fuel pressure was 12 but that was on first crank and upon ripping everything back out to replace ipr fuel pressure is where it needs to be

 

Ok guys so I've had hit and miss fires with the icp unplugged and plugged in! I just had the icp unplugged and it fired all the way up. Does this mean the icp sensor is bad???? And with the unplugged will I get throttle response or not?

 

Also note truck ran about 5 to ten seconds both times it fired sounded like it was a little quiet I had no throttle response while trying to rev it and then it just died back off

 

Note 2 I also got a hit with the icp plugged in off of starting fluid but it died off right away it started sounded normal and died

 

I think the next time you Hing I would donifnit was me would be to assemble a HPO test gauge. You'll want a 4, 000 psi or higher) liquid filled gauge and I built mine in a short section of Hydraulic Hose. There should be a link to the thread on that no start troubleshooting chart. It may cost you $40-50 to set up a proper gauge, but that's a lot cheaper than buying a new ICP sensor. You need to know if it's building HPO pressure or not and the only way to tell that is to use a gauge.

When it just cranks and doesn't fire are you getting smoke out the tailpipe?

 

According to the gauge I have pressure while cranking but that's off the gauge. Most of the time while cranking I do not get smoke. The only way I have been able to get the truck to fire us by continuously pumping the throttle while cranking.

 

Where is the little ball in the fpr supposed to be?

 

So you have a gauge on the High Pressure Oil rail of one of the heads? What kind of pressure are you getting while cranking? There is a threshold the PCM needs to see before it will fire the injectors.

I assume you're meaning that someone shimmed the FPR with a BB? It goes between the spring and the seat.

 

No I don't have one on the rail just the dash gauge that's why I said according to the gauge in the truck but while cranking it goes center of the oil pressure gauge.