Ideas on problems starting?
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Elder User
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The good news is, got a new adapter today, what a stroke of luck they had one on the shelf! Put battery on charger all night because I knew alt belt was slipping and probably wasn't charging fully. Truck started right up with no issues.
bad news is, alternator pulley is slipping on the friggin shaft of the alternator now, so I gotta pull the alternator once again to figure that out. it's not grooved or splined, just clamped down by the bolt, so I'm hoping tightening it up will solve that issue. Battery wasn't being charged, so I went ahead and shut it down.....And I can't feel my fingers, it's silly cold outside, this should be fun...
bad news is, alternator pulley is slipping on the friggin shaft of the alternator now, so I gotta pull the alternator once again to figure that out. it's not grooved or splined, just clamped down by the bolt, so I'm hoping tightening it up will solve that issue. Battery wasn't being charged, so I went ahead and shut it down.....And I can't feel my fingers, it's silly cold outside, this should be fun...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
The good news is, got a new adapter today, what a stroke of luck they had one on the shelf! Put battery on charger all night because I knew alt belt was slipping and probably wasn't charging fully. Truck started right up with no issues.
bad news is, alternator pulley is slipping on the friggin shaft of the alternator now, so I gotta pull the alternator once again to figure that out. it's not grooved or splined, just clamped down by the bolt, so I'm hoping tightening it up will solve that issue. Battery wasn't being charged, so I went ahead and shut it down.....And I can't feel my fingers, it's silly cold outside, this should be fun...
bad news is, alternator pulley is slipping on the friggin shaft of the alternator now, so I gotta pull the alternator once again to figure that out. it's not grooved or splined, just clamped down by the bolt, so I'm hoping tightening it up will solve that issue. Battery wasn't being charged, so I went ahead and shut it down.....And I can't feel my fingers, it's silly cold outside, this should be fun...
If you have an impact gun just rattle it tighter while holding the fan with a leather gloved hand. Only way I have ever found to tighten them up enough.
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Elder User
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I went one better, clamped it in a vice. Put belt back on, fired right up. It's charging 14.4 so I know it works.Let it sit and idle for 20 minutes, simulating my drive to the gas station....I know it's not the same thing, but I had to plow the driveway before work.After she was good and warm, I shut it off. I waited 5 minutes, like I was pumping gas....Went to start it again, slow crank, voltage dropped to 7.9, but fired up almost immediately after that, unlike it sometimes slow cranks a couple rotations.So, yes, another problem fixed, but didn't solve it again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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How about buying gas at a different station?
Problem solved! Drinks all around!
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Elder User
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I wouldn't dare say that's a silly idea....next step, retard ignition 2 degrees, and wait for starter to get here? I also got my ignition switch in the mail today....
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Elder User
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My understanding on manifold vacuum at startup, with the throttle blade closed, it shows 12-15" vacuum, beings that vacuum opens the advance in the distributor, wouldn't that be adverse? I want to retard the initial startup timing, not advance it. So having no vacuum at idle (ported vacuum) it wouldn't advance the timing....
the only way to make it it easier to crank is to take away some initial timing by a few degrees actually rotating the dizzy.
the only way to make it it easier to crank is to take away some initial timing by a few degrees actually rotating the dizzy.
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Elder User
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I'd like to remind everyone my cam timing is also straight up, I.e. Cam timing advanced 8 degrees, if 14 is too much as some would have me believe, I'll drop a pair of degrees tomorrow and see how she reacts.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Well back a couple degrees out of the timing see if that makes a difference.
You do have a timing light I assume. ?
You do have a timing light I assume. ?
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Lead Driver
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My understanding on manifold vacuum at startup, with the throttle blade closed, it shows 12-15" vacuum, beings that vacuum opens the advance in the distributor, wouldn't that be adverse? I want to retard the initial startup timing, not advance it. So having no vacuum at idle (ported vacuum) it wouldn't advance the timing....
Isn't the procedure for your truck to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line when setting the initial (centrifugal) timing? Whatever the procedure, I'd make sure your ignition timing is set exactly as prescribed in the manual.
I'm not sure exactly how your distributor's vacuum line is supposed to be plumbed, but maybe this is part of the equation. Does anybody know what the factory arrangement was?
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Elder User
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Yes I do, I'll do that and hopefully we'll see some results!
Will i notice any considerable difference in power, fuel economy etc with timing a few degrees retarded? Will the carb need adjustment as well?
Will i notice any considerable difference in power, fuel economy etc with timing a few degrees retarded? Will the carb need adjustment as well?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
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For rough troubleshooting, what if you disconnected and plugged the vacuum line feeding the distributor? Then you'd only have centrifugal advance.
Isn't the procedure for your truck to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line when setting the initial (centrifugal) timing? Whatever the procedure, I'd make sure your ignition timing is set exactly as prescribed in the manual.
I'm not sure exactly how your distributor's vacuum line is supposed to be plumbed, but maybe this is part of the equation. Does anybody know what the factory arrangement was?
Isn't the procedure for your truck to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line when setting the initial (centrifugal) timing? Whatever the procedure, I'd make sure your ignition timing is set exactly as prescribed in the manual.
I'm not sure exactly how your distributor's vacuum line is supposed to be plumbed, but maybe this is part of the equation. Does anybody know what the factory arrangement was?
On the radiator support, it does show to disconnect vacuum line to set, I believe 8-10 degrees factory. Factory was also ported vacuum, when I disconnected the vacuum while idleing, it didn't show any drop in rpm or idle quality, as it shouldn't, because no ported vacuum would not advance or retard timing, it's only for off idle quality.Is retarding the timing the next logical step? I don't wanna jump the gun here, it may only bandaid something else, sure it may help and fix it, obviously too far advanced timing causes slow start. I'd like to see where some of the 460 guys input on base timing. It's just a hot tow cam, I can post up specs, just too see what everyone else is doing with similar setups. I'd hate to go to FACTORY settings, because that may actually adversely affect the whole setup. No offense, but it's worth chewing on a bit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Ok so Factory was 8-10 and it's at 14 Back it off to 8° BTDC and test.
Factory is not going to change much same heads same pistons cam has been changed so dynamic compression "may" have change but no drastic component changes that would really effect combustion speed. You can always re curve the dist pick up the few degrees lost in base timing.
Factory is not going to change much same heads same pistons cam has been changed so dynamic compression "may" have change but no drastic component changes that would really effect combustion speed. You can always re curve the dist pick up the few degrees lost in base timing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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If you want to experiment with your timing, I'll get going with the EOT (End Of Thread) BlameShifting. I'm sure the advanced timing was mentioned way earlier in this thread, but I sure didn't catch the significance.
Fingers crossed...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Wow, if it turns out too much ignition advance was the primary fault, I'm going to have to drive into the desert where no one can here me and let out a bloodcurdling scream. I shouldn't have any trouble starting my truck for the trip because it's set to factory specs...
If you want to experiment with your timing, I'll get going with the EOT (End Of Thread) BlameShifting. I'm sure the advanced timing was mentioned way earlier in this thread, but I sure didn't catch the significance.
Fingers crossed...
If you want to experiment with your timing, I'll get going with the EOT (End Of Thread) BlameShifting. I'm sure the advanced timing was mentioned way earlier in this thread, but I sure didn't catch the significance.
Fingers crossed...
If your gonna do it do it so it can't be questioned.
He has an after market cam to so we have no idea how it's dialed in or the dynamic compression with it.
And and no blame shifting it is all a learning experience for everyone.
Remote Diagnostics lol
Is there anything more frustrating ? I don't think so.