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Im lost now. I plan to spend all day figuring this out.
Um, no, there's no need to do that. If that high AC voltage measurement is accurate, you've found a MAJOR problem. Confirm the accuracy of the ACV setting as detailed in post #224. If the meter is accurate, stop what you're doing and proceed posthaste to get a new alternator. Get a quality brand unit, not the same as presently installed.
i shut it off, left lights and heater on for 5 minutes, in the meantime I tested a wall socket just as you instructed, and it showed 120volts. Went back to the truck, voltage dropped to 11.4 volts and it still fired up no problem. Testing right at the alternator stud and battery ground I still showed 27.3i
i shut it off, left lights and heater on for 5 minutes, in the meantime I tested a wall socket just as you instructed, and it showed 120volts. Went back to the truck, voltage dropped to 11.4 volts and it still fired up no problem. Testing right at the alternator stud and battery ground I still showed 27.3i
Sounds like your meter is accurate on the ACV setting. But just to be triple sure, that 27.3 reading is with the engine running, right?
With the engine off, the ACV reading drops off to zero, or nearly so?
If yes to both questions, my next question is what brand of alternator will you be purchasing?
Pos post of battery to solenoid .1
solenoid to starter post .2
neg post to other side ring terminal .2
neg post to the actual bolt that is in block .4
i suspect ground in block is bad, will remove, clean, reinstall and check again.
ps, I had hard start twice later today, unfortunately didn't have voltmeter plugged back in first time, second time, voltage drop when cranking was 7.8 volts.
I'm trying not to chase squirrels at this moment, no difference in hot or cold starts, seems more correlated to moon phases....
to verify my fix on the ground, I plugged into the battery charger and am awaiting a green light to double check the drop test. Little corrosion on the ground bolt, but nothing major. Should there also be a chassis ground or is a bolt in the side of the block sufficient?
The way I do it (Ford way) is run from the ground terminal to the front cross member (wire wheeled to fresh metal, there will be a bolt there) and from there to a starter bolt. There used to be a ground cable with the two eyelets one halfway but I did it with two parts house ground cables.
I'm sure I'm about to get schooled on chassis, engine, and body grounds, but I added in this body ground, you think it'll help? Is there such thing as too many grounds?