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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Ideas on problems starting?

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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:20 PM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Really they must be using the cheapest lowest quality chinesium diodes they can find now a days.

Love it!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:26 PM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by crucialprospect
Im lost now. I plan to spend all day figuring this out.
Um, no, there's no need to do that. If that high AC voltage measurement is accurate, you've found a MAJOR problem. Confirm the accuracy of the ACV setting as detailed in post #224. If the meter is accurate, stop what you're doing and proceed posthaste to get a new alternator. Get a quality brand unit, not the same as presently installed.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:28 PM
  #228  
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i shut it off, left lights and heater on for 5 minutes, in the meantime I tested a wall socket just as you instructed, and it showed 120volts. Went back to the truck, voltage dropped to 11.4 volts and it still fired up no problem.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ Testing right at the alternator stud and battery ground I still showed 27.3​​​​​​​i​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:35 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by crucialprospect
i shut it off, left lights and heater on for 5 minutes, in the meantime I tested a wall socket just as you instructed, and it showed 120volts. Went back to the truck, voltage dropped to 11.4 volts and it still fired up no problem.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ Testing right at the alternator stud and battery ground I still showed 27.3​​​​​​​i​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Sounds like your meter is accurate on the ACV setting. But just to be triple sure, that 27.3 reading is with the engine running, right?

With the engine off, the ACV reading drops off to zero, or nearly so?

If yes to both questions, my next question is what brand of alternator will you be purchasing?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:36 PM
  #230  
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I'm mimicking that same test on my car, showed the same voltage as the truck??? Something screwy is going on here.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:38 PM
  #231  
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No to the second part of the question, engine off in both test vehicles, shows 27.3 volts ac
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:41 PM
  #232  
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I'm heading to the parts store and either buying an alternator or a new voltmeter.....
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 02:55 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by crucialprospect
No to the second part of the question, engine off in both test vehicles, shows 27.3 volts ac
Oh crap, I thought we were on to something. Throw away that meter and get a new one.

Good thing we confirmed the meter was inaccurate.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 04:16 PM
  #234  
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Bought the only name brand one in 20 miles, voltage ripple test was .01

the million dollar question now is, my old voltmeter was crap, is it safe insurance to redo voltage drop test?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 04:35 PM
  #235  
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Too bad! I did anyways.

Pos post of battery to solenoid .1
solenoid to starter post .2
neg post to other side ring terminal .2
neg post to the actual bolt that is in block .4

i suspect ground in block is bad, will remove, clean, reinstall and check again.

ps, I had hard start twice later today, unfortunately didn't have voltmeter plugged back in first time, second time, voltage drop when cranking was 7.8 volts.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 05:26 PM
  #236  
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How much advance have you got with the vacuum advance disconnected? Does the truck start any better while the engine is cold....or hot?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 06:02 PM
  #237  
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I'm trying not to chase squirrels at this moment, no difference in hot or cold starts, seems more correlated to moon phases....

to verify my fix on the ground, I plugged into the battery charger and am awaiting a green light to double check the drop test. Little corrosion on the ground bolt, but nothing major. Should there also be a chassis ground or is a bolt in the side of the block sufficient?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 07:39 PM
  #238  
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Got the ground to the block at a .2, I guess all I can do at this point is drive it tomorrow and see what it does?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 08:43 PM
  #239  
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The way I do it (Ford way) is run from the ground terminal to the front cross member (wire wheeled to fresh metal, there will be a bolt there) and from there to a starter bolt. There used to be a ground cable with the two eyelets one halfway but I did it with two parts house ground cables.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 10:36 PM
  #240  
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I'm sure I'm about to get schooled on chassis, engine, and body grounds, but I added in this body ground, you think it'll help? Is there such thing as too many grounds?
 
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