Ok Time for Wiring diagrams


See below

 

Thank you sir! Much clearer. And you personally recommend without start solenoid? Or is it 6 of one half dozen the other?

 

Ya it sort of 6 of one half dozen the other.

If you were going to install a PMGR starter and were not concerned with factory correct appearance. I would delete the start relay all together and Install the Bosch relay to switch the load/feed to the starter relay and here is why.

You eliminate the 2 battery cable terminal connections at the start relay. connections of potential issue.

You eliminate a high amp switch (starter relay), by keeping the starter relay you have 2 high amp switches in place. The one in the start relay and the one in the starter solenoid.
You eliminate the potential of slow starter disengagement due to back feeding on the PMGR starter. Not really an issue to be honest or something to worry about, but some worry about it.

The draw backs are you now need to extend or put a terminal block in place for the power feeds for the vehicle chassis wiring as they will no longer have the start relay in place to be fed from.

You have added an additional fuse and a Bosch relay both of which are points of failure but it can easily be by-passed if they crap out.

If you have the I terminal feed on the Start relay this will mean you will need a DPDT relay or a second standard relay for the ignition circuit. If you have that set up then it is probably better to keep the start relay in place.

You will need a 30A Bosch type relay, do not use one smaller.

 

Gotcha, may as well try the factory solenoid first then, I have already verified good wiring and connections. May as well use what's already there, I'll check voltage drop again, including across the solenoid.

Im also going to tinker some more with grounds, fender, body, chassis, engine.

 

It's tomorrow. Any update yet?

 

LOL Karl

 

And I should point out this is NOT an unscrupulous attempt to run up the post count in this thread, just to see if we can set a record...

 

Delivery by 8:00, it's 7:30.....

 

In other news....the government shut down.... and other than the first cold start this morning, it's been an absolute bear to start every since. There's gotta be something in the timing as well, maybe 50/50. Problem is, because it was recurved, the new dizzy won't let her back down to 8-10 degrees. I'm half tempered to put the old motorcraft stock one back in her to see what she does. I've never had a fit like I did today with starting it.

 

 

Holy cow! Disregard my last post.
From negative battery terminal to ground bolt is 1.5mv, from the block ground to the solenoid bolt, is .9mv


essentially my block isn't grounded to the fender?

 

It may worth while giving that a try putting the stock one back in. You have nothing to lose at this point.

 

 

So, to recap, Karl said, make sure the solenoid is grounded, well it is. To the fender. but what is the voltage drop at the fender? Entirely too much. So I grounded the fender to the block, now the solenoid is definitely grounded, basically to the negative side of the battery via the engine block.

 

Is that 0.2 volts, or 0.2 millivolts? In post #386, you stated millivolts. Just wanted to avoid any confusion.

If millivolts, that is virtually perfect. Pat yourself on the back and treat yourself to a good movie on Netflix. Maybe a personal favorite, Hot Rod. Brace yourself for some cinematic excellence:



If volts, that is okay, but could probably be better. Remember, the closer to zero the better. 0.2 volts (200 millivolts) would be okay on a long cable run, such as the big cable feeding the starter and handling hundreds of amps. For a much shorter run (the fender-mounted relay right next to the battery), handling a lot less current flow, you should be able to get the voltage drop down.