7.3 no start issue
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
The key is broke off in the ignition but there's enough of the key in the lock cylinder to make not lock and I can turn it with a screw driver and it cranks over just fine just no fuel. I also replaced all the relays under the hood with the ones from my dad's truck and everything is stock that I can tell is there something I could be missing in the ignition system?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
7.3 no start
When you key the ignition it should power up the relays,glow plugs, lift pump in tank,etc. glow plug light in dash on? Check voltage at tank pump you should hear it run when keying up,if not that’s your problem. Could be in colum wiring or the lock cylinder, one other thing you could do is us a spray bottle with diesel and spray it in the intake at the motor while someone cranks it over, DO NOT use starting fluid!, you’ll destroy the engine if the glow plugs ignite. And make sure the filter can is full on top of motor you can fill it with the top off. Good luck
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Um, if you hear a pump running in either fuel tank, something is seriously wrong..... 
The key (no pun intended) with the ignition lock and switch is that the PCM should be energized with the key (or screwdriver or whatever) in the RUN position. Presumably by 92 replies, the OP has determined that the PCM is live (easy tell-tale is the WTS light).
The key (no pun intended) with the ignition lock and switch is that the PCM should be energized with the key (or screwdriver or whatever) in the RUN position. Presumably by 92 replies, the OP has determined that the PCM is live (easy tell-tale is the WTS light).
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
You tried the Crank sensor right? That’s a possibility too,good one minute,junk the next. Mine had a recall after I replaced it in 98’on my 97’ I ran that truck for 427,000 miles ordered out from dealer, that was a nice rig!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Yea wts light comes on and goes off like normal and I've replaced the cps twice now. I've tried getting it to kick over off of diesel mist and it will kick over just won't stay running. Is there any sort of electric pump in the tank that should be running? It's a late 95 build. One thing I noticed was in my dad's truck when the wts light goes off it make an audible click sound mine doesn't do that it just turns the light out. I used every relay from his truck in mine and it made no difference.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
One other thing is that key cylinder, u said the key is broke off, try manipulating that and see if the motor starts (they go bad too).
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Cargo Master
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Yea checked all the fuses even with a meter to make sure they are fine swapped the main one out with my dad's. If the ignition switch turns and cranks it's working correct?
For that no start chart I tried following it but just came to dead ends on stuff ill run through it again though
For that no start chart I tried following it but just came to dead ends on stuff ill run through it again though
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 354
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You need to check ICP and IPR DC within 10 seconds of cranking this will give us a better direction to go. FIPW and cranking RPM are other PIDS to be mindful of. Get those numbers and report back and we will get you taken care of.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
So it's looking like an ipr I think I replaced icp and uvch and still nothing. I can't scan it again cause i had to take the scanner back and mine sucks. Is there anyway to see if the ipr is bad visually and how often do they go bad cause i dont want anymore probblems with this and replace it if necessary. I'm gonna get the stuff to check injector sealing tomorrow and also drain all the oil out of the hpop reservoir and crankcase and put all new stuff in. The valve covers were a bitch to get back on those back holes especially drivers side sucked to get it started. So since oil is drained and the fuel bowl is easy to pull should I just pull the ipr and make sure it's ok or just replace or am I pissing in the wind? Also I ordered a new ignition switch so i dont have to keep using a screwdriver.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 354
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It's your money but I wouldn't **** any of it away without data. You need a way to monitor what is going on. You can get Forscan or torquepro and a dongle for cheap. Check out this thread.
Https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html
Https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
I have one of the adapters but i cant get it to connect when it's hooked up to that truck all the other vehicles are fine just that one is being a pita.
Is the ipr something that is prone to going out cause if it is i dont have a problem replacing it. It's really looking like the ipr or hpop but im still confused why there is no oil squirting out of the injector. And my starter is sounding horrible from cranking so much anyone have a clue on those gear reduction starters they put in these trucks?
Is the ipr something that is prone to going out cause if it is i dont have a problem replacing it. It's really looking like the ipr or hpop but im still confused why there is no oil squirting out of the injector. And my starter is sounding horrible from cranking so much anyone have a clue on those gear reduction starters they put in these trucks?