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So should I just drill and tap a fuel filter lid and check pressure there or is the sharader valve fine I can also look and see if I can t in at the head but how high should the pressure be my gauge doesn't go over 150
If it took a minute and half or more to build fuel pressure then something is wrong. Fuel pressure should go up to maximum within a second or so of cranking. Fuel pressure also drains down very fast when not cranking so that is normal.
The scan data you provided shows the injectors should be firing. FPW is good as is ICP pressure and IPR percent. RPM is about correct with cold engine so that's OK.
Can you verify you intended to say 1.5 maybe 2 minutes for fuel pressure to reach ~55 PSI, or did you mean seconds instead of minutes?
Yea it took awhile for it to build that pressure that's why I only had 9psi the 1st time was because I only cranked it for 30-45 seconds at a time I can time it but it's at least 45 seconds to a minute and a half
Mine doesn't have the sensor it's just unplugged someone took a piece of pvc pipe and a cone filter and made a sweet hot air intake lol. So I'm gonna go time it today and see how long it takes I have an icp sensor on order so i will take care of that but with the sensor having oil in it will it give false high readings I almost think that the fuel is draining back into the tank since it takes so long. But since it does eventually build pressure wouldn't it start once I've built up pressure? Should I replace the pressure regulator sensor I've seen a few people have issues with those. I am glad my hpop is good I didn't wanna replace that just gotta figure out why the idm isn't firing the injectors. Also with the rpm while cranking the 180-200rpms is enough or is my starter slow I was gonna pull the belt off to see if I could get those rpms higher to see if something has a huge drag or if my starter is toast. When I got the truck the starter was loose like they cranked on it so long the starter came loose or they sold it to me just so they could say it ran but won't turn over now. If I can't figure it out soon im gonna have to drop it off at a diesel shop?
RPM's are OK. The data you need is ICP and IPR % during the first 10 seconds or so of cranking. Once you reach the 15 - 20 seconds mark the PCM will default to an internal (best guess) reading giving false data, it's just the way it works and very confusing at times if not aware. You can also monitor ICP volts which is real time regardless of cranking time and give a more accurate picture on HPO pressure. I didn't see that or maybe I missed it on your pictures.
The fuel pressure is a major issue here. The valley mechanical pump is two stage meaning the upper portion pulls fuel from the tank and pushes it into the bowl at around 7 PSI when full. The fuel then flows thru the filter under that pressure and enters the lower chamber on the pump, the single hose at the bottom. There is a very small piston that compresses the fuel to the heads every cam rotation.
Before throwing anymore money at this you need to at least find out why the fuel pressure is taking so long to come up. Could be just a kinked fuel line somewhere, usually in the fuel bowl area, rubber lines. Once you can get normal fuel pressure in a few seconds when cranking then use the scanner to help on additional troubleshooting areas if necessary.
So it slowly climbs like up to 10psi then 20 and so on over the whole time so it doesn't go from 0 to 55 after the 1.5 minutes it slowly climbs during that time. What kind of a part does the viscosity of the oil play will it not fire if the oil is to thin? I'll look and see if there is a pid for the voltage of the icp and I'll see what the readings are on everything after only 20 seconds of cranking. Also can I just blow the fuel lines out? I'll look and see if I screwed anything up when I resealed the fuel bowl.
So it slowly climbs like up to 10psi then 20 and so on over the whole time so it doesn't go from 0 to 55 after the 1.5 minutes it slowly climbs during that time. What kind of a part does the viscosity of the oil play will it not fire if the oil is to thin? I'll look and see if there is a pid for the voltage of the icp and I'll see what the readings are on everything after only 20 seconds of cranking. Also can I just blow the fuel lines out? I'll look and see if I screwed anything up when I resealed the fuel bowl.
It sounds like there is some kind of blockage from the bowl to the HP piston in the fuel pump. Here is a picture of a dissembled pump with the lower section removed. Disk looking thing on the left is the bellows style pump pulling fuel from the tank then to the inlet of the fuel bowl. Center is the actual HP piston and right is the cam lift valve. When the lift valve is pushed up by the cam fuel from the bowl enters the lower portion of the piston area. When the lift valve drops off the cam that Hugh spring presses the piston down pressurizing the fuel to the heads.
Here is a picture of the fuel flow to the inlet of the HP piston with the hose connector unscrewed. There are some small holes in there and if clogged up they would certainly restrict fuel flow. Actually you can see a few pieces of debris on mine when dissembled. I would think this would be rare because this is past the fuel filter.
Here is a picture of the lower portion of the pump body where the piston would go into. The hole in about the 8 o'clock position is the weep hole and any fuel that gets past the piston top seal would drain into the valley. Once that starts the pump is toast and needs replaced.
Here is a picture of the actual piston for a size reference. It's a pretty tiny thing and amazing it works as well as it does.
I'm not saying anything specific is the problem but for fuel to be pressurized to the heads we need the fuel bowl to supply some kind of pressure to push the fuel through the filter, usually ~ 7 psi, the to the HP piston. I don't think gravity alone would do the job, but might with your observations.
Blowing air back through the fuel lines might work but remember it takes a lot of cranking for that upper section to pull fuel from the tanks and fill the bowl. And of course my other question is when removing the lid on the fuel bowl is it full? also has the fuel pump ever been replaced, to your knowledge> Maybe you already mentioned this but the post is getting really long to re-read.
I would not worry about viscosity of oil at this time until the fuel pressure issue is resolved, best guess my friend.
What are the chances all 8 injectors are bad? And im not sure if it's ever been replaced but it gets 9psi of fuel pressure almost immediately but then it takes a long time for it to build up to 55psi this is all from the same sharader valve test port on the side of the fpr and I've also done the bb mod but i think I'm gonna go ahead and buy a pump and blow out the lines ill blow put the lines then try to start it before I buy a new pump I'm also ordering the icp sensor and new valve cover gaskets cause they will need replaced eventually anyways.
So I tried to blow through the line on the right side of the fuel pump I pulled the line then blew through it and it didn't just flow easy it took some force to get it to hold and only doing little blast at a time I could hear air coming out but barely is something blocking it or am I trying to blow through something I shouldn't be? On a positive note it only takes about 10 seconds now to build pressure all the way to 55psi I have some new data that I just took after blowing out that line. I need an icp it's reading wasn't right bit my father in law was cranking the truck over and he has the attention span of a gnat so he kept letting off then cranking again. There was also a decent amount of fuel pooled up in the valley
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