There was only the washer disk and spring no clip unless it is inside the filter now

 

Because the truck is a pile and I'm not gonna dump that kind of money into it it's not worth it. So I'll get it running as it is drive it till it scatters then part it out. But thanks for the solid technical advise

 

This is a good "No Start" trouble shooting guide.I got this out of another forum but it has helped me diag numerous trucs. Beats throwing money at it till it surrenders.
Good luck!

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?
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Hears some good info also:

7.3L Powerstroke Starting Requirements:
Battery voltage a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking
RPM at least 100 while cranking. If no tach movement suspect CPS
If you have a scan tool ICP should be 500 PSI ± 25 PSI and fuel
pulse width should be 1 to 6 milliseconds.

The above requirements assume the following:

Correct oil level, oil type and pressure
Correct type of fuel
Correct fuel pressure (53 PSI per Ford spec)
Sufficient air supply (clean air filter & unobstructed intake)
Proper oil level in HPOP reservoir (1 to ¾ inch from top)
Proper glow plug relay and glow plug operation (in cold weather)
Proper injection timing (PCM controlled)

 

No im not sure when it started it's been like this since I got it i see about 50% while cranking and only 240psi I believe it's low due to bad oil and also low rpms while cranking because the starter is toast. I've put new batterys in with a 200amp jump box and cranking speed is the same rpm so i think with more rpm I will get more psi and it will fire also with fresh good oil. So I've ordered a high torque starter and am doing an oil change once I get those parts put back in the filter head. But there are some very good points in your post thanks for that info.

 

I got the filter bypass put back together my starter is ofically toast and won't turn the truck over now so now i gotta wait on that to come in before I can get back to it

 

So I pressure tested the cooling system to see where the water came from and at 20psi and sat for 1.5 hours it didn't drop. You figure motor expands when warm so cold would really show up anything but nope. The only thing I noticed was it may have dropped a half pound to a pound in that time but it got dark and the temp dropped during that time.

 

So your saying rpms can be around 100 and it will still fire? I pulled my ipr and cleaned it and resealed it with new orings from Oregon fuel injection. After I did that icp was still reading 260psi and it would only start with a small whiff of ether I know it's bad but yea I had the gpr unhooked and then it fired and ran and idled great started having a loud audible knock like an injector not a rod knock. Icp read 600 or so while idling and it was really lazy revving up.

 

Well I'm back to working on this thing. I had to get my 76 ready to be sold. Well I got the new starter in it with new batteries and now it still won't start by the way wd40 does not work like starting fluid at all for aiding in starting. This is the data I have now please take a look and let me know what u think

 

Injection pressure is low. You have three trouble codes, so you should obtain those.

Most of the other numbers seem meaningless; what is FRP? What are EPC and EPCV?

 

I looked and it said dtc whatever no codes. And i have no clue they were just on there

 

What's the device?

 

The elm 327 with forscan lite. What's the chances it's just the icp and not the hpop?

 

What OS? There's a slew of stuff on there that have nothing to do with an OBS PSD, let alone any diesel. When the app connects, does it say anything about engine type and/or model year?

 

Yea there's a list of pids to choose from so i chose all the fuel related ones it just has a generic list of pids and doesn't say what is diesel specific

 

Again, what OS? This looks like it's NOT the Windows version. Unless the app knows specifically that it's connected to an OBS PSD when it connects, the command/code for obtaining trouble codes is probably the wrong one. You need to find out what that code is, and/or get the app to recognize the right engine/year.

The Windows version of ForScan SHOULD identify the engine and model year upon connection, and should then know how to obtain DTCs.

As for data PIDs, study the engine controls sections of the EVTM and the diesel supplement to the FSMs; that will tell you what data points are relevant.