Carli Suspension
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 464
Likes: 29
I am just trying to figure out the overall height of the truck so does anyone know about how much the rear of an f350 srw with the carli Add-A-Pack rear spring will sag with about 1000lbs in the bed? I know the add a pack is going to add about 1/2" height with no weight in it, I just need to know how much around 1000lbs would bring it back down.
New User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
Just looking for some advice here......
Current setup:
Carli 2.5"coils
Carli 2.5 kings
Carli steering stabilizer
Carli track bar
STOCK rear springs (full deavers ordered)
37x12.5r20 ridge grapplers set at 45psi
The truck started with 2"spacer and 2" lift fox 2.0 shocks not carli tuned straight from fox. Then I added carli track bar. Swapped the spacers out and added carli coils and bump stop drops. At that time the truck had 35x12.5r20 ridge grapplers on it.
This truck is on rough farm roads and patched up asphalt a lot (50-60% of the time). I beat it pretty hard for 32k miles but was very happy with it.The last week the 35s were on it and the first week the 37s were on it I really beat on it. So i started noticing the truck was giving a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Sure enough I checked the shocks and yep front driver shock was shot. So I bit the bullet after talking with carli and bought pin tops and steering stabilizer.
Well it was an instant improvement for sure but I'm still (5000mi later) noticing a lot of steering wheel feedback on the hwy (way more than when the 35s where on it when the fox shocks were new). The truck feels very stiff and rocks side to side in big rolling potholes significantly more than it did with the fox shocks. With the fox shocks I did feel the front bump stops contact a couple times a day. I dont think I've managed to even make them kiss with the pintops until I checked the pressure and they were @300psi so I dropped them to 225psi and now I think they do move easier. But maybe even more steering wheel feedback now.
Has anyone ever felt the pintops were valved too stiff. I read stories were people say they're actually looking for manhole covers and potholes that they used to go around. This has turned out to be opposite, I now have respect for the ones I would drive right over with the previous setup.
So my question is do you guys think the rear springs will fix the side to side harshness and overall stiffness.
I haven't had time to get it to the alignment to see if some of the hwy feedback when crossing expansion joints, asphalt patches ,pot holes etc is due to a worn ball joint or tie rod end. I did replace my drag link as it had some wear but it wasnt terrible.
I understand I do have a larger tire now and think some of these characteristics are to be expected but not all of them.
I think I have a couple different things going on, but just looking to see what you guys think.
Also, please know this is not a bash on Carli at all, I just wanna get this figured out
I've been contemplating this post for a whil. But didn't do it because I think their products are bad *** and I dont wanna trash them.
I really wanna make this work this thing has actually started to make my back hurt and causing extra fatigue on the same roads I traveled day in day out for 32000 miles with no trouble.
I have checked all the joints in the front end and cant find any problems. But have not had time to jack it up and check ball joints.
TIA for any suggestions.
Current setup:
Carli 2.5"coils
Carli 2.5 kings
Carli steering stabilizer
Carli track bar
STOCK rear springs (full deavers ordered)
37x12.5r20 ridge grapplers set at 45psi
The truck started with 2"spacer and 2" lift fox 2.0 shocks not carli tuned straight from fox. Then I added carli track bar. Swapped the spacers out and added carli coils and bump stop drops. At that time the truck had 35x12.5r20 ridge grapplers on it.
This truck is on rough farm roads and patched up asphalt a lot (50-60% of the time). I beat it pretty hard for 32k miles but was very happy with it.The last week the 35s were on it and the first week the 37s were on it I really beat on it. So i started noticing the truck was giving a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Sure enough I checked the shocks and yep front driver shock was shot. So I bit the bullet after talking with carli and bought pin tops and steering stabilizer.
Well it was an instant improvement for sure but I'm still (5000mi later) noticing a lot of steering wheel feedback on the hwy (way more than when the 35s where on it when the fox shocks were new). The truck feels very stiff and rocks side to side in big rolling potholes significantly more than it did with the fox shocks. With the fox shocks I did feel the front bump stops contact a couple times a day. I dont think I've managed to even make them kiss with the pintops until I checked the pressure and they were @300psi so I dropped them to 225psi and now I think they do move easier. But maybe even more steering wheel feedback now.
Has anyone ever felt the pintops were valved too stiff. I read stories were people say they're actually looking for manhole covers and potholes that they used to go around. This has turned out to be opposite, I now have respect for the ones I would drive right over with the previous setup.
So my question is do you guys think the rear springs will fix the side to side harshness and overall stiffness.
I haven't had time to get it to the alignment to see if some of the hwy feedback when crossing expansion joints, asphalt patches ,pot holes etc is due to a worn ball joint or tie rod end. I did replace my drag link as it had some wear but it wasnt terrible.
I understand I do have a larger tire now and think some of these characteristics are to be expected but not all of them.
I think I have a couple different things going on, but just looking to see what you guys think.
Also, please know this is not a bash on Carli at all, I just wanna get this figured out
I've been contemplating this post for a whil. But didn't do it because I think their products are bad *** and I dont wanna trash them.
I really wanna make this work this thing has actually started to make my back hurt and causing extra fatigue on the same roads I traveled day in day out for 32000 miles with no trouble.
I have checked all the joints in the front end and cant find any problems. But have not had time to jack it up and check ball joints.
TIA for any suggestions.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 51
From: SoCal
It sounds to me like your Kings are just valved too stiff, especially if you liked the Foxes before that as a lot of guys say the 2.0's are a little too soft in their stock valving. When I revalved my 2.5's I went a tad stiffer...but not really much at all. And I only did it because I offroad almost every weekend. Couple things to check, is your Track bar at 406 lbs of torque? Have you tried playing with tire pressure? Were your 35's the same tire as before?
I was the one that said I aim for potholes now that I put my 2.5's and Carli coils in
But I can tell you I still get a lot of feedback when I drop my toy hauler off and drive home unloaded, the tires are at 65psi and air bags about 20psi and I can feel a lot more in the road. Big bumps are still butter, but the little stuff like manholes I start noticing whereas I never do when I run 45/40psi and none in the bags.Deavers will give you a pretty huge boost in ride quality. You'll only have about the same payload as an F150 though, but the ride will be noticeably better. You can also give Atlas Spring a call, they can build you a full stack rear leaf spring that will give you a better ride but let you keep your payload. HOWEVER, this isnt going to fix the issues you're having now. It might mask some of them, but if you're rocking a lot more than you used to...and the only thing you changed was shocks and the SS, I think you just prefer a softer shock valving.
Have you tried putting the stock SS back in and see if that changes the feedback portion of your equation? (I'm guessing its your tires though...)
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 165
Likes: 6
Not so much a question, but you should never alter the nitrogen pressure to adjust ride characteristics. That nitrogen is purely there to stop the oil from cavitating. If you want a softer/more compliant ride you need to adjust the valve stack. You can have King do this, but they are backed up over 7-8 weeks at the moment because of all the races going on right now. Fox should be able to take care of you right away as they have a much bigger service department...but that doesn't really help you.
It sounds to me like your Kings are just valved too stiff, especially if you liked the Foxes before that as a lot of guys say the 2.0's are a little too soft in their stock valving. When I revalved my 2.5's I went a tad stiffer...but not really much at all. And I only did it because I offroad almost every weekend. Couple things to check, is your Track bar at 406 lbs of torque? Have you tried playing with tire pressure? Were your 35's the same tire as before?
I was the one that said I aim for potholes now that I put my 2.5's and Carli coils in But I can tell you I still get a lot of feedback when I drop my toy hauler off and drive home unloaded, the tires are at 65psi and air bags about 20psi and I can feel a lot more in the road. Big bumps are still butter, but the little stuff like manholes I start noticing whereas I never do when I run 45/40psi and none in the bags.
Deavers will give you a pretty huge boost in ride quality. You'll only have about the same payload as an F150 though, but the ride will be noticeably better. You can also give Atlas Spring a call, they can build you a full stack rear leaf spring that will give you a better ride but let you keep your payload. HOWEVER, this isnt going to fix the issues you're having now. It might mask some of them, but if you're rocking a lot more than you used to...and the only thing you changed was shocks and the SS, I think you just prefer a softer shock valving.
Have you tried putting the stock SS back in and see if that changes the feedback portion of your equation? (I'm guessing its your tires though...)
It sounds to me like your Kings are just valved too stiff, especially if you liked the Foxes before that as a lot of guys say the 2.0's are a little too soft in their stock valving. When I revalved my 2.5's I went a tad stiffer...but not really much at all. And I only did it because I offroad almost every weekend. Couple things to check, is your Track bar at 406 lbs of torque? Have you tried playing with tire pressure? Were your 35's the same tire as before?
I was the one that said I aim for potholes now that I put my 2.5's and Carli coils in
But I can tell you I still get a lot of feedback when I drop my toy hauler off and drive home unloaded, the tires are at 65psi and air bags about 20psi and I can feel a lot more in the road. Big bumps are still butter, but the little stuff like manholes I start noticing whereas I never do when I run 45/40psi and none in the bags.Deavers will give you a pretty huge boost in ride quality. You'll only have about the same payload as an F150 though, but the ride will be noticeably better. You can also give Atlas Spring a call, they can build you a full stack rear leaf spring that will give you a better ride but let you keep your payload. HOWEVER, this isnt going to fix the issues you're having now. It might mask some of them, but if you're rocking a lot more than you used to...and the only thing you changed was shocks and the SS, I think you just prefer a softer shock valving.
Have you tried putting the stock SS back in and see if that changes the feedback portion of your equation? (I'm guessing its your tires though...)
I think you're right, the valving in these things is the root of my problem. I agree the rear springs are gonna help but not completely fix the rough ride.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 554
is the extra feedback from the trackbar using Heims/uniball bearings instead of injection molded rubber bushings? Also the kings have spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings right? All these "race" oriented parts will add more feedback to the cab. wondering if some guys notice it more then others? Just wait till all those parts rust and start to squeak 
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 165
Likes: 6
is the extra feedback from the trackbar using Heims/uniball bearings instead of injection molded rubber bushings? Also the kings have spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings right? All these "race" oriented parts will add more feedback to the cab. wondering if some guys notice it more then others? Just wait till all those parts rust and start to squeak
And yes all hardware is tight, believe me I've even checked bolts I never took loose like 3or 4 times.
The firmness (rough ride) is the main issue not the feedback.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Really been researching the hell out of this subject and struggling to nail down a decision....
I originally planned on running a Commuter 2.5 setup because I never go offroad. After talking to some vendors it seemed like the Backcountry 2.5 kit was a better fit for me. Mainly, I drive 40-50k miles a year and probably tow 20-25k of that. I don't tow "heavy" but I tow far (150 mile trips each way on the weekend and 5-800 mile trips to WV/NH/ME/TN towing a trailer with multiple RZR's). As part of that conversation I was swayed towards the Deaver's as I'm really looking to tone down the harsh handle on bridge joints, potholes (NYS roads suck), etc... Now I'm second guessing myself with the Deaver's as I want to get a leveled stance and it seems like anyone with a Backcounctry 2.5 + Deavers is keeping their stock rake. As I understand it the add-a-packs provide less lift and a marginal increase in ride quality. From what I gather the add-a-packs are the go-to with the Commuter kit and the Deaver's are the go-to with the Backcountry.
Can anyone comment on what might be best? I feel like the more I read the more difficult it becomes to nail down the "right" combination for me. I "only" plan on running 37's.
Thanks,
Shawn
I originally planned on running a Commuter 2.5 setup because I never go offroad. After talking to some vendors it seemed like the Backcountry 2.5 kit was a better fit for me. Mainly, I drive 40-50k miles a year and probably tow 20-25k of that. I don't tow "heavy" but I tow far (150 mile trips each way on the weekend and 5-800 mile trips to WV/NH/ME/TN towing a trailer with multiple RZR's). As part of that conversation I was swayed towards the Deaver's as I'm really looking to tone down the harsh handle on bridge joints, potholes (NYS roads suck), etc... Now I'm second guessing myself with the Deaver's as I want to get a leveled stance and it seems like anyone with a Backcounctry 2.5 + Deavers is keeping their stock rake. As I understand it the add-a-packs provide less lift and a marginal increase in ride quality. From what I gather the add-a-packs are the go-to with the Commuter kit and the Deaver's are the go-to with the Backcountry.
Can anyone comment on what might be best? I feel like the more I read the more difficult it becomes to nail down the "right" combination for me. I "only" plan on running 37's.
Thanks,
Shawn
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 9
Really been researching the hell out of this subject and struggling to nail down a decision....
I originally planned on running a Commuter 2.5 setup because I never go offroad. After talking to some vendors it seemed like the Backcountry 2.5 kit was a better fit for me. Mainly, I drive 40-50k miles a year and probably tow 20-25k of that. I don't tow "heavy" but I tow far (150 mile trips each way on the weekend and 5-800 mile trips to WV/NH/ME/TN towing a trailer with multiple RZR's). As part of that conversation I was swayed towards the Deaver's as I'm really looking to tone down the harsh handle on bridge joints, potholes (NYS roads suck), etc... Now I'm second guessing myself with the Deaver's as I want to get a leveled stance and it seems like anyone with a Backcounctry 2.5 + Deavers is keeping their stock rake. As I understand it the add-a-packs provide less lift and a marginal increase in ride quality. From what I gather the add-a-packs are the go-to with the Commuter kit and the Deaver's are the go-to with the Backcountry.
Can anyone comment on what might be best? I feel like the more I read the more difficult it becomes to nail down the "right" combination for me. I "only" plan on running 37's.
Thanks,
Shawn
I originally planned on running a Commuter 2.5 setup because I never go offroad. After talking to some vendors it seemed like the Backcountry 2.5 kit was a better fit for me. Mainly, I drive 40-50k miles a year and probably tow 20-25k of that. I don't tow "heavy" but I tow far (150 mile trips each way on the weekend and 5-800 mile trips to WV/NH/ME/TN towing a trailer with multiple RZR's). As part of that conversation I was swayed towards the Deaver's as I'm really looking to tone down the harsh handle on bridge joints, potholes (NYS roads suck), etc... Now I'm second guessing myself with the Deaver's as I want to get a leveled stance and it seems like anyone with a Backcounctry 2.5 + Deavers is keeping their stock rake. As I understand it the add-a-packs provide less lift and a marginal increase in ride quality. From what I gather the add-a-packs are the go-to with the Commuter kit and the Deaver's are the go-to with the Backcountry.
Can anyone comment on what might be best? I feel like the more I read the more difficult it becomes to nail down the "right" combination for me. I "only" plan on running 37's.
Thanks,
Shawn
You may find the larger tires and shocks mellows out the rear enough for you without touching the spring...
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Why not hold off on the rear springs for now, just do the shocks. Do your lift in the front, shocks in the rear and rims/tires. Then see how it rides and go from there.
You may find the larger tires and shocks mellows out the rear enough for you without touching the spring...
You may find the larger tires and shocks mellows out the rear enough for you without touching the spring...
Thanks,
Shawn
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 51
From: SoCal
Personally I'd go with the backcountry purely for the added oil capacity in the reservoirs for towing...but I geek out on shocks more than most so the ROI in that system might not be as apparent to some.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
The oil capacity is the main reason the Backcountry was recommended to me. In addition to that it seems like the valving would be more appropriate to "taming" the beast.
New User
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
If anyone on AZ is interested, I am selling a carli 2.5 full progressive leaf spring pack and U bolts. Had them on my 2015 6.7 f350 CCLB for 10,000 miles but had to swap back to stock for fifth wheel towing. Asking 1k obo.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 51
From: SoCal
Are those the same springs for a 17+? Carli lists them as different part numbers.
