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Carli mentions that their bump stops are "high clearance" to keep them clear of the springs. Seems like the bump stops aren't close enough to be an issue. Anyone know what the deal is with that?
Thanks!
When I installed mine the passenger side bump stop and bracket drop comes very close to the spring, this is because when you lower the from axle the track bar pulls the axle in the drivers direction. It was close and it was nearly a pain because the bump stop with the bracket did hit the new spring when I installed it. I was able to leave the bracket on but I had to remove the bump stop to get the spring in, once I got the axle back up it wasn't an issue. This may or may not be what is described. Either way, should be no issue once the track bar is installed.
Originally Posted by FlyinAg
Hey Tricon (your PM box is full BTW) how did you mount your reservoirs? From your pics it looks like on the frame, but is there a bracket you made or bought? I see Carli makes one that loops over the coil isolator, but I think I like they way you have it better.
Thanks!
Fox makes a universal bracket for the reservoir, it requires minor drilling, if I was a betting man, I would guess he used that bracket. Link to amazon below:
Thanks for the reply... I guess if you were not running a track bar or drop bracket the clearance would be a problem
I think even then you may still be fine, it was only an issue when the axle was lowered to an extreme to fit in the new spring, it got better as the axle was raised, and substantially better with the track bar. That said, if you do this lift w/o the track bar or the drop bracket you will notice the axle shifted from center, at least visually.
As a side note, after installing the Carli 2.5 kit I took the truck to an alignment shop and the alignment was near perfect, the toe on the passenger side was a bit off, but that may have been like that on my truck before the kit. It's a solid kit.
Yeah if I end up doing the kit I will do a track bar or drop bracket. Just trying to do my research. Half of me just wants to slap some foxes on it and call it done, and not have to deal with alignment, geometry, dealers trying to deny warranty etc..
I.e. just being lazy lol. If shocks alone are 80% capability at 20% of the **** pain I might just do that. My 3 options are (1) full Carli or at least springs and someone else's hard parts plus 2.5 foxes, (2) just the 2.5 foxes, (3) the foxes and some sort or custom spring pack that brings the back down 2 inches (yeah I know heresy but the taller the truck the suckier loading dirt bikes is...)
Tricon, can you confirm what 2.5's you bought? I see that the 2.5s and 2.0s sized for 2-3.5 inches of lift have different compressed/extended lengths and strokes. The 2.5s are shorter. Did you have to limit any suspension travel to protect the shock? The 2.0s stroke 9.6 inches, which means to meet Carli's claim of 9" of suspension travel they have to utilize nearly the entire shock stroke. The 2.5s stroke 8.8 inches. Not super sure what king part number they use for the pintops kit but Kings seem to come in sizes every two inches, so 6, 8, 10, etc. Has anyone actually measured the suspension cycle to see what travel is actually attainable stock and with 2.5" spring lift? Does anyone know what the stock shocks stroke?
I've had the Factory Editions for over a year now, definitely caught some air and never had an issue with droop. I've never measured it exactly, but you'll be fine with the 8.8inches of down travel. You can get limiting straps on the RAs if you're worried about it.
Just a question for all the guys who are running the 37's what gear ratio are your trucks? Seems like you have to know before you order or find ones with the right ratio with 37's being taller than stocks quite a bit.
Just a question for all the guys who are running the 37's what gear ratio are your trucks? Seems like you have to know before you order or find ones with the right ratio with 37's being taller than stocks quite a bit.
If you're going with the diesel it doesn't really matter, there's not much difference between the 3.31 and 3.55's, and with 935lbs of torque I personally don't think it matters anyways.
If you're going with a Gasser I would factor in the cost of regearing.
Just a question for all the guys who are running the 37's what gear ratio are your trucks? Seems like you have to know before you order or find ones with the right ratio with 37's being taller than stocks quite a bit.
3.55 for me. As Tricon said, it effectively makes me about a 3.31 (factory offered diesel gearing)
If if I had my wishes I wish the truck had 3.73 option from factory. Then with 37’s it would drop closer to 3.55.
Not worth a gear change. Hardly noticeable with the diesel.
I have a 2019 drw and I have ordered a 4.5 pintop with full deavers and long travel bags. My question is do I need to order a block for the rear springs to keep the stock rake or be level while towing my fifth wheel or gooseneck trailers. Thanks in advance
I have a 2019 drw and I have ordered a 4.5 pintop with full deavers and long travel bags. My question is do I need to order a block for the rear springs to keep the stock rake or be level while towing my fifth wheel or gooseneck trailers. Thanks in advance
deavers remove the block. Your bags will level it. Not towing the truck should sit level also with that setup
Hello everyone, I have just ordered the parts to start building a Carli equipped F-250. My main question is how much do the Add-A-Packs effect the rake? I prefer a leveled look so my goal is to get rid of the factory rake.
Hello everyone, I have just ordered the parts to start building a Carli equipped F-250. My main question is how much do the Add-A-Packs effect the rake? I prefer a leveled look so my goal is to get rid of the factory rake.
Leave the rear stock. See how you like it first (and save $950 or put it towards 2.5" shocks - Fox or King). You can always move to add-a-leaf later. All that does is remove the factory block with their add-a-leaf. If I remember right, it will also rake the car as I think it raises it .5"
You may want to look at adjustable radius arms from Lewis - similar price (maybe less expensive) but adjustable. Also the fox ATS steering stabilizer is an awesome unit and adjustable (but $100 more than what you got on that order sheet)
EDIT: I was correct, from Carli "Eliminates the Factory block and provides 1/2" of lift over stock"
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