Damn! You can run 40's on the 4.5" Carli with rear replacement leaves and a 3/4" bumper spacer and the correct wheel offset.

 

They should fit, there is a guy in a 2017+ Superduty page who's running them.

For anyone who is running 17's, just make sure that they use stick on wheel weights and do not place them in the center of the rear barrel. Make sure that they are installed towards the front and back of the inner barrel.

 

Yup. True. They were figuring out how to skin that cat while I was figuring out how to skin mine. Four major difference between those builds and mine:

1) I am not interested in running mud terrains on a daily driver. The largest, highly reputable all terrain I could find is the 38x13.50r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.
2) I wanted to keep the rig as low as possible. They are sitting at least 1.5" taller than me. Theoretically, the stock tires are 34.1, the new tires are 37.8, so the tires add 1.85" of ride height. The front is 4" of lift and the rear is 2", so the power step at the drivers door is some where around 3" of lift. So the whole rig has gained less than 6" in in net height and less than 5" of entry height.
3) They are running 17x9 wheels. I am running 20x12 wheels. I didn't want to pick up so much sidewall that at comfortable PSIs the handling was impacted.
4) I am tuned and deleted. Without it, I wouldn't consider running 38's, let alone 40's without a re-gear. The added height, and the added weight of those 40s is significant. My Ridge Grapps are the lightest 38s I could find, regardless of MT or AT tread.

 

Is there anyone on here thats done a Carli leveling kit with Adaptive steering and not had issues? I"m waiting for mine and now worried about the adaptive steering because I always get the one that its 'the only one they've ever seen do that'. Just wondering if I should expect problems or if Cocobolo just had some bad luck.

And for Cocobolo did you ever get it straightened out and if so what was the fix. Thanks.

 

 

I noted you didn't mention the caster bushings, did you swap those out? Just a shot, but thought I'd ask.

Anyway, I wanted to pop in here with an update of my own. I installed my Carli Backcountry 2.0 kit this past weekend. Smooth install but being relatively inexperienced I took my time, and it took all day but there were a lot of distractions. I will say you absolutely want the help of a friend. But heres my quick thoughts on the install. TLDR I did this, it went well enough.

We placed jacks behind the control arm on the frame, but If I had to do it again I'd probably choose forward of the wheels on that bit of frame there, the truck was absolutely lowering a bit when we took pressure off the front axle to lower it. We had a third jack and placed it up front. I wasn't worried about the truck tipping forward, but it was unnerving. Also jack the truck up a bit higher then you think you might need, we really had to put that front axle on the ground to get the new springs in.

Brakes, this was actually really easy. I bought some new dot fluid. Get a 13mm line wrench. I torqued the banjo bolt to 26 lbs, I found that # and 35 lbs torque on this forum somewhere - a well calibrated arm told me 26 lb was plenty. I then took tygon tubing and ran it into a bottle with some hydraulic fluid opened the bleed port and pumped away. If you're winding what this looks like watch this chris fix video. Brakes do legitimately feel better then they did before.
Undo everything and lower that front axle! Do release your differential vent tube, I ripped about 1 cm off mine because "it was too hard to remove," I had plenty of length left to just pop it back on, but you know live and learn. When installing the bump stop drop brackets it really felt like the divers side was starting to strip while bolting it on before I got to 18lbs. So keep an eye on that. I decided to leave it at good enough.

Caster bushings were also easy, I sprayed some Pb blaster on there the day before, (do this to the top shock bolt too while you're there) then a few good whacks to the knuckle with a hammer followed by liberal pry application. Absolutely leave the castle nut on a bit, that sucker shoots off. Tapping the new one in is easy, you can't really mess this up.

Lub the metal sleeve for your new rear shocks before putting it into the rubber bushing, they give you two different ones but on the 2018 + truck the bolt only fits in one of these, so use that one.

Lastly the track bar. Did this all with the truck on the ground. I popped the lower ball joint out with a jack, way easier then using puller tool. For the length (37 and 5/16) you can measure edge to edge of each eye rather then center to center, they're the same size, just make sure your referencing the same edge. I don't have a torque that goes to 406 lbs, so I went to 250 lbs with some bonus ugha-chugas from an impact. Probably a good 1/6 of a turn on the nut will get you from there.

Adjust your drag link after driving the truck for a bit to let the suspension settle. I torqued to collar to 41 lbs.

Trucks driving great. It's doesn't ride any worse, and it looks cool which is mostly why I did this so I'm happy. I'm pretty sure I don't need an alignment, but maybe I'll do one for the heck of it anyway.

 

I have no issues cuz I haven't installed it yet, I was referring to Coco's issues and a few others I've heard with adaptive steering and lifts.

 

I guess even Coco isn't clear on the issue - seems like a very personal relative measurement he is explaining, not a truly described issue, even the dealership "reset" it and sent him on his way saying its fine.

 

Add me to the list of guys that have ordered a Carli PinTop 2.5" and haven't even taken possession of my truck yet. Ford tracking says i should see it on the 2nd of November. I am crossing my fingers.

I also have some wheels sitting in my garage and a bumper on its way from ADD. I am just a little excited.

 

This is a great thread about some great products but I have a really naive question.

The stock wheels on my platinum apparently have a +40mm offset. When you all are talking about wheels with +0 or +1, do you mean +1 relative to stock or in an absolute sense? Going to a wheel sold as a "0 offset" means the wheels are shifted out 40mm then, right? Is that how you avoid rubbing the sway bar?

 

yes, going from +40mm to 0 will shift the wheel out - that doesn't necessarily meant it won't rub, but most certainly will help. Pends on tire width, diameter, lift, radius arms, etc.

 

What are the wheel specs?

 

I believe he's running the stock 20's, so 20x8 +40

 

Hey y'all,

Carli mentions that their bump stops are "high clearance" to keep them clear of the springs. Seems like the bump stops aren't close enough to be an issue. Anyone know what the deal is with that?

Hey Tricon (your PM box is full BTW) how did you mount your reservoirs? From your pics it looks like on the frame, but is there a bracket you made or bought? I see Carli makes one that loops over the coil isolator, but I think I like they way you have it better.

Also, any resolution to the adaptive steering issue mentioned above? And has anyone else experienced any issues? Did you have to do anything after the list was installed with the adaptive steering?

Thanks!