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I know I know. . . Im so nervous lol. I did a lot more than just the turbo stuff. . . I decided not to try it tonight. Im gonna give myself a few hours to remember anything I forgot to put back. . .
When I dug under the hood on mine I made several upgrades and repairs. It was just not sensible to do them one at a time but I knew that it would present two things...If it didn't run right it would be harder to track down which repair/mod was the culprit. I had no issues (once I realized that the 42 pin connector hadn't been reconnected). I realized a nice 2 MPG bump in fuel mileage and don't know which repair/mod to attribute it to but I don't lose any sleep over it.
When I dug under the hood on mine I made several upgrades and repairs. It was just not sensible to do them one at a time but I knew that it would present two things...If it didn't run right it would be harder to track down which repair/mod was the culprit. I had no issues (once I realized that the 42 pin connector hadn't been reconnected). I realized a nice 2 MPG bump in fuel mileage and don't know which repair/mod to attribute it to but I don't lose any sleep over it.
Yeah. I had some parts piled up over the winter that really needed to go in. It just worked best for me to do it all at once when I blew an oil line. . . Im just kinda nervous it wont start. Or that I forgot something.
I really dont care if I know which mod is responsible for better performance I just want to drive the sucker again lol
Well I found what I messed up. Didn't put the exhaust back pressure waste gate back together. I tried with everything installed but it would work.
I have the sensor unplugged at the front of the pedestal. It's all connected right? So if I ziptie the valve shut on the exhaust housing it will be fine? Otherwise I was gonna just loosen the turbo and pry up a little but until it fits.
Nice angle. So that is OK to leave closed? I put a ziptie on it and the engine started right up so IDK what all that little lever does but it sure helps lol. . .
That's a flapper in the exhaust that closes in cold weather to provide artificial load on the engine to help it warm up faster. Makes the exhaust sound like a jet engine.
You want to rig it OPEN (towards the back), with something that can take the HEAT of the exhaust and turbo next door.
Zip ties (unless steel) won't do it.
Now, this is important.....
You said something about you didn't put it back together?
Did you pull the EBP apart in the pedestal? It has a piston in a closed area of which the opposite side is where its rod comes out for that linkage in my photo.
A second part is the EBPV solenoid, which is the piece in the front bottom part of the pedestal that gets an electrical connector.
If you had these apart and not reassembled with proper seals, you can get a massive oil leak
Probably you would have noticed it by now, but be careful back there. The orings on top and bottom of the pedestal are also big areas for leaks. Be careful prying anything back there, too
That's a flapper in the exhaust that closes in cold weather to provide artificial load on the engine to help it warm up faster. Makes the exhaust sound like a jet engine.
You want to rig it OPEN (towards the back), with something that can take the HEAT of the exhaust and turbo next door.
Zip ties (unless steel) won't do it.
Now, this is important.....
You said something about you didn't put it back together?
Did you pull the EBP apart in the pedestal? It has a piston in a closed area of which the opposite side is where its rod comes out for that linkage in my photo.
A second part is the EBPV solenoid, which is the piece in the front bottom part of the pedestal that gets an electrical connector.
If you had these apart and not reassembled with proper seals, you can get a massive oil leak
Probably you would have noticed it by now, but be careful back there. The orings on top and bottom of the pedestal are also big areas for leaks. Be careful prying anything back there, too
Open. Towards the pedestal or away? I'll get something better on there.
What I meant by not together was the little tube coming out of the pedestal with the little slide ring on it.
I didn't do anything to the pedestal other than clean it and replace O rings. No substantial oil leak. The typical Ford drip. . .
Open. Towards the pedestal or away? I'll get something better on there.
What I meant by not together was the little tube coming out of the pedestal with the little slide ring on it.
I didn't do anything to the pedestal other than clean it and replace O rings. No substantial oil leak. The typical Ford drip. . .
The EBPV rod extends to close the flapper. The lever should be to towards the back of the truck, towards the firewall to be open. The closed position is pushed towards the passenger fender.
You shouldn't have ANY drips at the turbo/pedestal area. If you do, FIX THEM NOW, or they could turn into a big leak near the hot turbo
The orings between the motor and pedestal and also between the pedestal and turbo are one-time-use-only. Any time you pull the turbo or pedestal, replace the orings and torque to an increased spec, not the low Ford spec. Here's a reference:
That's still not much. I think I had them over tightened before, which flattened out my orings, also leaking within 2 yrs.
I used a little Vaseline to hold the orings in place while aligning and manipulating.
You probably have done all this, but it's better to make sure while you're in there than to have to go back in because you tried to reuse orings or something
The EBPV rod extends to close the flapper. The lever should be to towards the back of the truck, towards the firewall to be open. The closed position is pushed towards the passenger fender.
You shouldn't have ANY drips at the turbo/pedestal area. If you do, FIX THEM NOW, or they could turn into a big leak near the hot turbo
The orings between the motor and pedestal and also between the pedestal and turbo are one-time-use-only. Any time you pull the turbo or pedestal, replace the orings and torque to an increased spec, not the low Ford spec. Here's a reference:
That's still not much. I think I had them over tightened before, which flattened out my orings, also leaking within 2 yrs.
I used a little Vaseline to hold the orings in place while aligning and manipulating.
You probably have done all this, but it's better to make sure while you're in there than to have to go back in because you tried to reuse orings or something
OK. I got some stainless steel cable ties I'll get that stuck open.
I haven't noticed any turbo related leaks. I had oil dripping down my starter was sweating rear main seal. I guess oil worked it's way into the exhaust when I was doing injectors, it was dripping thru the EGT sensor assembly. So I gotta pull that and let it drain. I think that's all that's leaking. I hope so.
I used the new O rings and bolts. I'll double check the torque on them.
If I'm not coating the o-rings in something specific for the system this is what I use to lube them for installation: O-ring lubrication
Although most of the replacement o-rings we switch to here are Viton, silicone lube should NOT be used with any silicone o-rings (for viton and buna it's good). This would include the blue fluorosilicone o-rings on the fuel bowls. If you need a lube for any of the o-rings commonly found on our trucks, diesel fuel or oil is perfect.
EDIT for clarity: I suppose I should mention that this info is sourced from theoringstore.com, and learned of this while searching for a lube for the viton o-ring that I was using for the IH style water pump I'm installing. Petroleum based oils and diesel fuel are good for viton, so for the water pump (which will see steam) I used axle grease.
Although most of the replacement o-rings we switch to here are Viton, silicone lube should NOT be used with any silicone o-rings (for viton and buna it's good). This would include the blue fluorosilicone o-rings on the fuel bowls. If you need a lube for any of the o-rings commonly found on our trucks, diesel fuel or oil is perfect.
Thanks Brian. I was surprised when I learned that silicone was not recommended for silicone o-rings, since I did use silicone spray on my blue o-rings on my fuel bowl a few years ago. I haven't noticed any leaks yet, but if it's going out the drain line I suppose I wouldn't know.
OK guys. So I pulled the little valve thingy towards the passenger side and put a steel ziptie on it. It does not move.
Im just not really thinking that the turbo is there. Like Im just not feeling the pull. Now Im still breaking everything in so I havent really pushed it yet.
But like when I turned it off with my old setup, I would hear the wheel slow down and stop. Now I dont hear anything. It may just be from my CAC boots and whatnot that Im not hearing anything. I dont hear a lot of suction out of the filter either.
Obviously the true test will be to see how much boost Im making. Still trying to get Torque set up.
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