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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 09:27 AM
  #31  
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I wanted to buy them. I figured Id never have all this apart again. . . but it was a lotta coin to get them. I already had a lot sunk into this project. I will be sure to clean up the surfaces.

About how big of a bead did you guys use/recommend?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 10:10 AM
  #32  
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1/2" wide bead by 1/4" thick you'll know when to remove them. Also the bolt on the passenger side the one under the front cover can't be removed without taking the front cover so just unloose it enough where you can slide the plenum out.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 01:18 PM
  #33  
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And I used a green pad on the block, got that old stuff right off. Found that to be the easiest. I also put the bead on the block in stead of the cover.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 09:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
And I used a green pad on the block, got that old stuff right off. Found that to be the easiest. I also put the bead on the block in stead of the cover.
You talking about like a dish cleaner deal? scotchbrite or whatever?

bead on the block, got it.

Originally Posted by z31freakify
1/2" wide bead by 1/4" thick you'll know when to remove them. Also the bolt on the passenger side the one under the front cover can't be removed without taking the front cover so just unloose it enough where you can slide the plenum out.
Ok, just wanted a general idea of the bead size.

I have no idea what bolt you are talking about but I guess ill find out
 
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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 11:18 PM
  #35  
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Yes, scotchbrite will work fine. Be careful because the green will get in the intake. I just used a cheap one the wife had.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 07:12 AM
  #36  
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As an added precaution I applied a smaller bead of sealant to both the block and the plenum surfaces. I figured that way I could insure full contact on both surfaces and the two beads would then blend themselves together. Figuring out how much is just the right amount was the hardest part about that.

On the bolt, I believe it's passenger's side front, bottom in the HPOP area. The front cover stops the bolt from coming all the way out and the plenum has a slot cut into it there so you can slide the plenum out from around that bolt. You will find it.

I also stuffed paper towels into the intakes to prevent stuff (like scotchbrite) from getting in there. I double stuffed, first the individual holes then folded full length towels across the top. That gave double protection from getting stuff in there. If you do that make sure that you don't forget to pull the towels out before reassembly.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #37  
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Glad you got it done. That's the way I did it as well, then used a shop vac just in case. But I only put it on the block side. Did you use OEM sealant? That's the only thing I would of used.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 01:47 PM
  #38  
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So after battling rust welds on the clamps I got the snail out. Got it mostly apart I gotta run and get a smaller 12 point 8mm socket. Got the compressor housing soaking in some degreaser.

I had a question about the instance spyder, x pipe, H pipe. Whatever you'd like to call it. What should I do about the temp sensor on there if I want to soak it in degreaser? Just not submerge it all the way or pull it out.

My motor is a late 99 so it should have the AIH right?

And what's should I do about the ebp stuff? The sensor isn't connected on the drive bolt cover, the tubing is gone. Should I do a delete or will just leaving it unplugged work? I don't want to spend the money to fix it all and I have heard it's better without it.


Any other things you guys would suggest doing to it while it's apart​?

Sorry if I don't make much sense I'm running around like a chicken with its head cut off trying to get stuff done on my truck and stuff at work.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 05:17 PM
  #39  
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Anyone got a torque spec on the charge air temp sensor? I pulled everything off the X pipe to clean it, and I dont wanna strip it out. I checked Haynes and it didnt say. Did a few different google searches didnt find anything. Was hoping someone had a different service manual that had the spec.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:18 PM
  #40  
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"Guttin-Tight"... or good and tight is all.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #41  
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From what I remember, You don't delete the sensor or tube, the PCM still needs to see it to regulate, you delete everything after that. But you're in Cold Land USA, don't know if you want to do that. Your choice....
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 08:48 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Sous
"Guttin-Tight"... or good and tight is all.
good ol German torque spec

Originally Posted by coax9952
From what I remember, You don't delete the sensor or tube, the PCM still needs to see it to regulate, you delete everything after that. But you're in Cold Land USA, don't know if you want to do that. Your choice....
I'm not sure what exactly you are talking about
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 10:46 PM
  #43  
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The EBPV Sensor and tube....You stated that both were gone.....
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 11:59 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by coax9952
The EBPV Sensor and tube....You stated that both were gone.....
oh gotcha. Sorry I had forgotten I mentioned that. I think the sensor is still there, and there is about a 2 inch tube pinched off coming from it. I don't think the sensor is plugged in but I haven't looked at it in a while
 
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by P4IN COMM4NDO
oh gotcha. Sorry I had forgotten I mentioned that. I think the sensor is still there, and there is about a 2 inch tube pinched off coming from it. I don't think the sensor is plugged in but I haven't looked at it in a while
That sensor on the front of the engine?....kinda important to operate correctly.
 
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