My SOTP saw no different with EBP sensor/tube installed or the 4yrs I ran with cap on sensor and bolt in manifold

 

Then I guess both Navistar and Ford decided to spend some money on a sensor, the tube and software for nothing. They don't even put grease zerks on things to save money.

Anyway....if it works for you, rock on!

 

As I've read, the ebp sensor is there to verify proper ebp valve operation. I know some don't run one and others just take the reading from the map.

 

Painted the compressor housing red, as well as the intercooler pipes, and the H pipe_X pipe_spyder whatever you wanna call it. Then the turbine housing/exhaust housing is black, as well as the pedestal mount. These are all the pictures I have ATM, if I go out there today I'll get some more

 

Nice hillbilly parts hangers.

 

That's one bad *** paint room lol.. looking good man keep up the good work.

 

Worked tho, just some good ol 14ga house wire.

Haha thanks, I was gonna paint outside but it was too windy, a few weeks ago my boss had me throw some packaging out in the dumpster, I stoll the plastic and stuffed it in my car thinking I could use it sometime, windy day came around so I made a booth out of zipties and plastic. . . Works, but I got some residue on my truck so we will see if that comes off. Its getting new paint eventually so Im not terribly worried

 

Use orange hand cleaner to remove over apart on windows works great, it even polishes the windshield.

 

ah there's an idea.

 

So I got busy with work, had an open weekend to get stuff done on the truck, then I got sick. . . Forced myself to go put the turbo back together just to have accomplished something. And idk why this surprises me anymore, but I found issues. For one -

I guess something got stuck between the turbine? Anyhow, I was like screw it it has been spinning fine. AND THEN, go to put the compressor wheel on, and somehow the dam shaft got striped out. . . IDK if it was from the compressor wheel or sliding all the other stuff on the shaft. Anyhow, I'm gonna try to rethread it tomorrow morning. If that doesn't work I guess I get to tear it all apart and get a new turbine/shaft assembly. Yeehaw. . . And it was going so smoothly.

So, if anyone knows the thread pitch and diameter or whatever I'd appreciate it. I'm gonna look around tonight and see if I can't find it

 

I don't remember for sure, but don't they notch the wheel to balance it?

 

That was a thought I had. But I wasnt sure either.

I sent Clay a message, Im going to see about maybe getting the wheel switched out in case the threads on there were screwed and thats what stripped the shaft, cuz I didnt have to force any of the bearings on or anything, I was working pretty close with it, so I think I would have noticed. IDK we will see what he says, I kind of doubt it was the wheel, but if I end up ordering a shaft I wouldnt wanna chance screwing that one up with the wheel.

This really sucks. . .

 

I saved the threads! Got ahold of Clay and he told me the size for the threads (1/4-28) and I got a nut from Napa, cut it in half, put it on the shaft, then used some vice grips and worked it over the bent threads a few times. It's not perfect but it works.

Now, when I'm installing the compressor wheel, how much space should be between the back of the wheel and the back plate?

 

I'm not sure about the spacing but the instructions I used from Clay had me torque the wheel to 10 ft-lbs (http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf).

Clay hasn't steered me wrong yet.

 

That's what I had read. But I'm worried because it seems like with the way the threads ended up it's tighter, I haven't had a chance to throw a torque wrench on there but my concern was it's probably at or past 10ftlbs just trying to get it on there. And it's probably a half inch on the threads. I'll mess with it more later today