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It's always been said to just hand tighten it like snug. As it turns it will tighten it self. Use your judgement just not loose. 10 psi isn't very tight.
It's always been said to just hand tighten it like snug. As it turns it will tighten it self. Use your judgement just not loose. 10 psi isn't very tight.
10psi is not much beyond finger tight. 20,000rpm will do the rest.
I put a torque wrench on there at 10 ft lbs and it seemed to just spin easier. Maybe I should have gotten a new shaft. Hopefully the wheel doesn't fly off. . . I just tightened it to where the shaft is equal with the bolt on the wheel.
Well I'm not sure what I'm reading I guess. Dose it move in and out? If not I guess you got it. It should spin freely. No back and forth.
Spins fine.
Just to clarify. Should the back of the compressor wheel sit against the bearings? Stupid question I'm sure but I want to be 100% sure before I slap a cover on the sucker
You will know for sure when you put the cover on. There is very little clearance between the wheel and the inside of the cover, but once it is tightened down evenly it should spin without making contact. I know I was nervous when I put my cover on because there was a slight bit of contact. Although, after securing all of the hardware, it was good to go and has been great ever since.
I can hit 30 PSI and regularly pull 28 PSI up a grade with our camper chasing us... Much more than that and you are just generating heat with the stock turbo as it becomes inefficient. If you are looking for more than that, look into the KC38R or 38R as bolt on replacements.
You will know for sure when you put the cover on. There is very little clearance between the wheel and the inside of the cover, but once it is tightened down evenly it should spin without making contact. I know I was nervous when I put my cover on because there was a slight bit of contact. Although, after securing all of the hardware, it was good to go and has been great ever since.
I can hit 30 PSI and regularly pull 28 PSI up a grade with our camper chasing us... Much more than that and you are just generating heat with the stock turbo as it becomes inefficient. If you are looking for more than that, look into the KC38R or 38R as bolt on replacements.
So those specs are with the rebuild and a billet wheel? I really don't want to spend the money on a bolt on upgrade. That's why I just went with 160cc on the injectors.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Sticking my nose in here for support. Although I've seen your posts, I don't know the answer.
Just so you know we are all watching...and waiting...LOL.
You should see some real improvements with the work you're doing. Can't wait for the results
Lol. I love when people are like " yeah when you get done with this headache it'll really pull " " can't wait to see it " " glad I don't have to screw with your crap " xD
I'm surprised you guys have been able to wait this long lol. It's been like a month since I blew the oil line on the " race tune " and that's what made me park it, and I had a bunch of parts stack up over the winter so I figured I would just put those on. Injectors were kind of a spur o the moment deal.
So those specs are with the rebuild and a billet wheel? I really don't want to spend the money on a bolt on upgrade. That's why I just went with 160cc on the injectors.
Yes, my apologies. I have the RR 4/4 billet wheel, high flow turbo outlet, delete pedestal, 4" exhaust, RR boots, GH Hydra and AIS intake. Injectors are 242K miles OEM.
If everything is 100% on the truck and there are no exhaust or intake leaks, you should have a good amount of power. Although, more fuel requires more air, so at the top of your power band you might be struggling a bit, but might be OK too.
Lol. I love when people are like " yeah when you get done with this headache it'll really pull " " can't wait to see it " " glad I don't have to screw with your crap " xD
I'm surprised you guys have been able to wait this long lol.
Sometimes that's the most we can do for you. There are times under the hood that you think, "I'm never going to work on this again"
Then you grab your camera/phone, snap a few pics and say, "Wait until I show THIS pic," or "I have to make sure I post up how I got around this problem, help the next guy avoid the problem, too," etc
I know it sounds cliche, but we're here for you, Bro!
Gently place the cover over the wheel and backing plate....the wheel should not touch the compressor cover. Going by memory, the picture shows the wheel seated on the shaft. There should be no axial movement of the wheel and shaft.....well, very little as there is SOME clearance in the thrust bearing when this is all assembled. In other words....if it's not seated against the thrust bearing....you'll know it.
Yes, my apologies. I have the RR 4/4 billet wheel, high flow turbo outlet, delete pedestal, 4" exhaust, RR boots, GH Hydra and AIS intake. Injectors are 242K miles OEM.
If everything is 100% on the truck and there are no exhaust or intake leaks, you should have a good amount of power. Although, more fuel requires more air, so at the top of your power band you might be struggling a bit, but might be OK too.
All I have from that list is the wheel, rebuild, 4" exahust, boots, Hydra and 6637
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Sometimes that's the most we can do for you. There are times under the hood that you think, "I'm never going to work on this again"
Then you grab your camera/phone, snap a few pics and say, "Wait until I show THIS pic," or "I have to make sure I post up how I got around this problem, help the next guy avoid the problem, too," etc
I know it sounds cliche, but we're here for you, Bro!
Yeah. I tell myself that Everytime I'm under the hood. Then something else shiny catches my eyes. . .
Originally Posted by Dan V
Gently place the cover over the wheel and backing plate....the wheel should not touch the compressor cover. Going by memory, the picture shows the wheel seated on the shaft. There should be no axial movement of the wheel and shaft.....well, very little as there is SOME clearance in the thrust bearing when this is all assembled. In other words....if it's not seated against the thrust bearing....you'll know it.
Yeah. I tell myself that Everytime I'm under the hood. Then something else shiny catches my eyes. . .
After breaking my EBPV solenoid while doing my uppipes and eventually getting it fixed (thanks to some awesome members and friends), I threatened to WELD THE HOOD SHUT
Yeah, really. It's in one of my threads. We all have days like that.
Lol. I love when people are like " yeah when you get done with this headache it'll really pull " " can't wait to see it " " glad I don't have to screw with your crap " xD
I'm surprised you guys have been able to wait this long lol. It's been like a month since I blew the oil line on the " race tune " and that's what made me park it, and I had a bunch of parts stack up over the winter so I figured I would just put those on. Injectors were kind of a spur o the moment deal.
I've had at least one box (usually several) from Riffraff, Diesel O-rings, Rock Auto, etc., waiting in my garage to be unpacked and installed for the last 3 years. It's a never ending process but I'd rather put my money into parts and upgrades instead of a monthly car payment.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
There are times under the hood that you think, "I'm never going to work on this again"
Too many of those days to count but I'm too far into this to quit! I still haven't done injectors, u-joints, ladder bars, transmission, or GTP38R yet!
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
After breaking my EBPV solenoid while doing my uppipes and eventually getting it fixed (thanks to some awesome members and friends), I threatened to WELD THE HOOD SHUT
Yeah, really. It's in one of my threads. We all have days like that.
I've had my moments where I felt like leaving the truck in a parking lot (with the key in it and running), taping a $20 bill to the door, and walking away. The past two summers were buck$zooka shots and serious down time. Luckily something comes up where a big truck comes in handy right before my wife tells me to sell it.
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