Turbo build
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Indiana
Turbo build
looking to get a bit more out of my turbo.
Planning on on getting the RiffRaff Billet Compressor wheel 94-03
then I hadn't decided on anything else, but from the little I understand, short of buying a performance turbo, all I can do is a rebuild/reseal kit and compressor wheel?
What kits have you guys used and had work well?
Planning on on getting the RiffRaff Billet Compressor wheel 94-03
then I hadn't decided on anything else, but from the little I understand, short of buying a performance turbo, all I can do is a rebuild/reseal kit and compressor wheel?
What kits have you guys used and had work well?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
I used this
https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...8-gtp38-ford-2
Talked with Clay at Riff Raff and he was working on a 360 kit but didn't have it at the time. Was still working out the metallurgy with his suppliers.
SP kit was good and stock turbo spools fast. Running RR 4/4 wheel and very happy
Edit: I see he now has the 360 kit
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38-...ild-kit-99-03/
https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...8-gtp38-ford-2
Talked with Clay at Riff Raff and he was working on a 360 kit but didn't have it at the time. Was still working out the metallurgy with his suppliers.
SP kit was good and stock turbo spools fast. Running RR 4/4 wheel and very happy
Edit: I see he now has the 360 kit
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38-...ild-kit-99-03/
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
If you're going to suck more air, you also need a bigger straw.
I switched to AIS intake, supposed to be about 50% more airflow than stock.
In addition, more intake = more output. I have a 4" MBRP SS exhaust.
Both of those + a tuner to take advantage of the increased capabilities.
I went with Hyrda for the loadable, switch-on-the-fly, capabilities, with GearHead tunes.
I am currently running a "95 wheel"/original ww-style, which spins up faster than the stock and doesn't suffer from turbo stall. I do have SPTurbo wheel to go in, as the 95 wheel doesn't flow as much and runs out of air on the top end.
Which of these have you done or are planning to do? Each of the areas has multiple options, each with pros and cons
I switched to AIS intake, supposed to be about 50% more airflow than stock.
In addition, more intake = more output. I have a 4" MBRP SS exhaust.
Both of those + a tuner to take advantage of the increased capabilities.
I went with Hyrda for the loadable, switch-on-the-fly, capabilities, with GearHead tunes.
I am currently running a "95 wheel"/original ww-style, which spins up faster than the stock and doesn't suffer from turbo stall. I do have SPTurbo wheel to go in, as the 95 wheel doesn't flow as much and runs out of air on the top end.
Which of these have you done or are planning to do? Each of the areas has multiple options, each with pros and cons
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Indiana
I used this
https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...8-gtp38-ford-2
Talked with Clay at Riff Raff and he was working on a 360 kit but didn't have it at the time. Was still working out the metallurgy with his suppliers.
SP kit was good and stock turbo spools fast. Running RR 4/4 wheel and very happy
Edit: I see he now has the 360 kit
GTP38 360º Bearing Rebuild Kit - 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...8-gtp38-ford-2
Talked with Clay at Riff Raff and he was working on a 360 kit but didn't have it at the time. Was still working out the metallurgy with his suppliers.
SP kit was good and stock turbo spools fast. Running RR 4/4 wheel and very happy
Edit: I see he now has the 360 kit
GTP38 360º Bearing Rebuild Kit - 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
If you're going to suck more air, you also need a bigger straw.
I switched to AIS intake, supposed to be about 50% more airflow than stock.
In addition, more intake = more output. I have a 4" MBRP SS exhaust.
Both of those + a tuner to take advantage of the increased capabilities.
I went with Hyrda for the loadable, switch-on-the-fly, capabilities, with GearHead tunes.
I am currently running a "95 wheel"/original ww-style, which spins up faster than the stock and doesn't suffer from turbo stall. I do have SPTurbo wheel to go in, as the 95 wheel doesn't flow as much and runs out of air on the top end.
Which of these have you done or are planning to do? Each of the areas has multiple options, each with pros and cons
I switched to AIS intake, supposed to be about 50% more airflow than stock.
In addition, more intake = more output. I have a 4" MBRP SS exhaust.
Both of those + a tuner to take advantage of the increased capabilities.
I went with Hyrda for the loadable, switch-on-the-fly, capabilities, with GearHead tunes.
I am currently running a "95 wheel"/original ww-style, which spins up faster than the stock and doesn't suffer from turbo stall. I do have SPTurbo wheel to go in, as the 95 wheel doesn't flow as much and runs out of air on the top end.
Which of these have you done or are planning to do? Each of the areas has multiple options, each with pros and cons
I ak planning on getting my old tuners sold and getting the Hydra, probably in a week or so
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
If you want more out of a stock turbo look into deleting the EBP flap, add a billet wheel (SPX wheel is great in spool time and egt reduction) rebuild with the 360° kit, and do the 6637 MOD if you don't like turbo noise add an S&B AIS it outflows the OEM AIS. If you tow a 1.0 exhaust housing will be a good upgrade along with a ported compressor housing, if you don't tow you will be dissapointed as it takes longer to spool up.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
I'm just running a WW2 wheel, with a factory rebuild with a EBP delete and the 6637 air filter. Have a over boost regulator installed too, with that, a 4 inch strait pipe, and some Wildman tunes, I can build 40 lbs of boost fairly easy it seems. 30-35lbs are easy in the tow tune, and in the stock tune, it'll build 30-32lbs.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Indiana
If you want more out of a stock turbo look into deleting the EBP flap, add a billet wheel (SPX wheel is great in spool time and egt reduction) rebuild with the 360° kit, and do the 6637 MOD if you don't like turbo noise add an S&B AIS it outflows the OEM AIS. If you tow a 1.0 exhaust housing will be a good upgrade along with a ported compressor housing, if you don't tow you will be dissapointed as it takes longer to spool up.
I'm just running a WW2 wheel, with a factory rebuild with a EBP delete and the 6637 air filter. Have a over boost regulator installed too, with that, a 4 inch strait pipe, and some Wildman tunes, I can build 40 lbs of boost fairly easy it seems. 30-35lbs are easy in the tow tune, and in the stock tune, it'll build 30-32lbs.
I have 3 inch exhaust coming off of the turbo/headers. Planning to up it to 5inch after the first hanger.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
I may already have the EBP delete, Ill have to check. I know the tubing is disconnected at the sensor. What do you mean by "1.0 exhaust housing"?
What overboost regulator do you have?
I have 3 inch exhaust coming off of the turbo/headers. Planning to up it to 5inch after the first hanger.
What overboost regulator do you have?
I have 3 inch exhaust coming off of the turbo/headers. Planning to up it to 5inch after the first hanger.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
What do you expect to gain from adding a 5" pipe to the back of your down pipe? Your flow will never be more than what the smallest diameter allows so you will gain nothing by doing that. If you want to do anything with that I'd recommend 4" from the turbo all the way back, that will allow more air to flow. Additionally, unless you went with yuuuuugge power that 5" will be a waste even if you started at the turbo with it.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
I made my own with a harbor freight pressure regulator. That and some hose, and it's good to go. Even mounted it to the MAP sensor bracket.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 533
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From: Northwest Indiana
That 1.0 is the aspect ratio (AR) of your turbo exhaust housing. I can't explain it it's a ratio of dimensions within the housing. My van turbo is something like a 1.15 AR and stock for our trucks is under 1.0 (I believe) but I don't recall what it is.
What do you expect to gain from adding a 5" pipe to the back of your down pipe? Your flow will never be more than what the smallest diameter allows so you will gain nothing by doing that. If you want to do anything with that I'd recommend 4" from the turbo all the way back, that will allow more air to flow. Additionally, unless you went with yuuuuugge power that 5" will be a waste even if you started at the turbo with it.
What do you expect to gain from adding a 5" pipe to the back of your down pipe? Your flow will never be more than what the smallest diameter allows so you will gain nothing by doing that. If you want to do anything with that I'd recommend 4" from the turbo all the way back, that will allow more air to flow. Additionally, unless you went with yuuuuugge power that 5" will be a waste even if you started at the turbo with it.
As far as 5", thats what my inlets measured on my tips, it was late last night when I was drawing my plans up, guess I wasnt thinking about that, I could just use an adapter to bump up from 3" to 5" right before the tips. But Im also now looking at downpipes, so we will see what I end up with there, I may end up staying with the 3" or bump up to 4", then just adapt to where I need to be at the tips. . . thanks for catchin that for me
I got a 360 kit and the comp wheel in the cart, just gotta decide if Im getting anything else with all that
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I went down that road, figuring out 3" 4" 5" exhaust, etc.
Bottom line was on our trucks 4 inch from the turbo-back was the most opened up and good at evacuating the exhaust.
Although I don't recall all the discussion and reasoning, I was quite satisfied with what was shared. It's all in the archives, *I* just don't have enough "RAM" to recall it offhand, LOL.
I chose the 4" MBRP SS, but not the 304 (except for the tip). No need to pay for "expensive chrome" just for the iguanas to look at under the truck
Between the 4" turbo back exhaust and replacing the stock wheel and AIS intake, there was plenty of reserve power opened up for the tuner to grab...if that's your goal
Bottom line was on our trucks 4 inch from the turbo-back was the most opened up and good at evacuating the exhaust.
Although I don't recall all the discussion and reasoning, I was quite satisfied with what was shared. It's all in the archives, *I* just don't have enough "RAM" to recall it offhand, LOL.
I chose the 4" MBRP SS, but not the 304 (except for the tip). No need to pay for "expensive chrome" just for the iguanas to look at under the truck
Between the 4" turbo back exhaust and replacing the stock wheel and AIS intake, there was plenty of reserve power opened up for the tuner to grab...if that's your goal
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Indiana
RAM haha, I get it. I laughed. Well played.
I can go with a 4" downpipe and fabricate the rest right?
Yeah, not looking to make a drag racer out of it, but Im 18, and heck I want some power! haha, going to be ordering a Hydra this week, so between whatever I do with the exhaust and turbo should have some good pull to it.
I can go with a 4" downpipe and fabricate the rest right?
Yeah, not looking to make a drag racer out of it, but Im 18, and heck I want some power! haha, going to be ordering a Hydra this week, so between whatever I do with the exhaust and turbo should have some good pull to it.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
Wow, well done sir! What is the point of an overboost regulator? Just from hearing the name its a dump off to keep the turbo from exploding if it generates more boost than it can handle??? Probably way off but just for funzies. . .
I got a 360 kit and the comp wheel in the cart, just gotta decide if Im getting anything else with all that
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Okay, since you are young and likely to play (we've all been there...though some of us drove Brontosaurus, not Broncos as kids)
Install Gauges. Install EGT Gauges and watch them!
Install Fuel pressure gauges
Install transmission temp gauge, if you can't get it via Torque Pro.
Install Torque Pro and OBD adapter
Take care of her and she'll last...up to a point. Don't...and you'd better be sure to wear a good pair of sneakers, LOL.
Look at the links in Tugly's signature. I think it used to be called Chip Chasers or something like that. Stresses and outlines many of the ways to get your truck as close to 100% in STOCK mode before trying to enhance it. Really does make a big difference.
Wow, 30-35lbs is a LOT of boost on a stock turbo! I thought they started to get really inefficient (and HOT) above 30psi?
Install Gauges. Install EGT Gauges and watch them!
Install Fuel pressure gauges
Install transmission temp gauge, if you can't get it via Torque Pro.
Install Torque Pro and OBD adapter
Take care of her and she'll last...up to a point. Don't...and you'd better be sure to wear a good pair of sneakers, LOL.
Look at the links in Tugly's signature. I think it used to be called Chip Chasers or something like that. Stresses and outlines many of the ways to get your truck as close to 100% in STOCK mode before trying to enhance it. Really does make a big difference.
Wow, 30-35lbs is a LOT of boost on a stock turbo! I thought they started to get really inefficient (and HOT) above 30psi?