Turbo build
I pulled it to the left before tying it. For whatever reason I guess I got switched around. . .
I am out of steel zipties, Ill pick some up tomorrow probably and redo it.
Does anyone know what the sensor for boost on the PCM is called in torque pro?
I pulled it to the left before tying it. For whatever reason I guess I got switched around. . .
I am out of steel zipties, Ill pick some up tomorrow probably and redo it.
Does anyone know what the sensor for boost on the PCM is called in torque pro?
No worries about any mixups, that's why we post our work and why we review others' posts. I'm getting help looking for oil leaks in another thread, hoping someone spots something I'm missing, too

The good news is the backwards position is easy to fix and definitely would cause boost/power issues like you describe.
Let's hope it is that simple
No worries about any mixups, that's why we post our work and why we review others' posts. I'm getting help looking for oil leaks in another thread, hoping someone spots something I'm missing, too

The good news is the backwards position is easy to fix and definitely would cause boost/power issues like you describe.
Let's hope it is that simple
Yeah, I hope thats all it is. It ran better than it was before I worked on it. So if its going that good without much of a turbo I cant wait to see what it does having it set up proper
A) EBPV rod pushes to close the butterfly valve. Your exhaust should sound a little like a jet
B) Wastegate actuator rod on the turbo pushes to open the wastegate and bleed off boost
Let us know how you make out
I'll have to go to town after lunch and get some more ties.
And having the waste gate not connected to the red tube will prevent it from pushing right?

Yes, without the red line connected, the wastegate actuator won't push...BUT...the wastegate will still open when the level of boost overcomes the spring pre-load of the arm in the WG actuator. If you SHORTEN the rod (by cranking the end while holding the rod with pliers- while OFF the turbo), you increase the preload, which is *supposed* to increase the WG holding pressure before, and in the absence of, the WG actuator attempting to open the WB through the red line.
Make sense?
BTW, my brand new, $104 EBPV rebuild kit...LEAKS
I'm planning to do a delete on it now, or maybe WELD it shut! LOL. I like being able to warm up my truck faster in the winter with the remote start, but I'm not going to have it leaking everywhere
I haven't made a final decision yet, but food for thought while you're in there

Yes, without the red line connected, the wastegate actuator won't push...BUT...the wastegate will still open when the level of boost overcomes the spring pre-load of the arm in the WG actuator. If you SHORTEN the rod (by cranking the end while holding the rod with pliers- while OFF the turbo), you increase the preload, which is *supposed* to increase the WG holding pressure before, and in the absence of, the WG actuator attempting to open the WB through the red line.
Make sense?
BTW, my brand new, $104 EBPV rebuild kit...LEAKS
I'm planning to do a delete on it now, or maybe WELD it shut! LOL. I like being able to warm up my truck faster in the winter with the remote start, but I'm not going to have it leaking everywhere
I haven't made a final decision yet, but food for thought while you're in there 
That sucks that it leaks. If I was gonna do anything itd would have been getting the new pedestal without all that crap on it. Id rather be cold for a few miles haha
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

I've decided to pull the pedestal and try to reseal the kit. It's just a cap and oring there.
I had a flooded garage today, thanks to very strong downpours. Got to use a shovel for an hour. Hard on the back and joints.
So I'll get back at it tomorrow.
Hey, at least you didn't have a flood
LOL

I've decided to pull the pedestal and try to reseal the kit. It's just a cap and oring there.
I had a flooded garage today, thanks to very strong downpours. Got to use a shovel for an hour. Hard on the back and joints.
So I'll get back at it tomorrow.
Hey, at least you didn't have a flood
LOL 

Sad thing is I have a couple of I-beams to set as very deep and strong drains at that entrance and 5/16" plate with holes in it for on top so I can cross with whatever I want.
This oil leak problem has delayed that installation, putting the truck in the garage, hanging out the door just a few inches to have more room in the front for working. The door likely would have diverted most of that water.
I had 2 tool bags get wet. I set them up to drain and dry. Most of it should be fine, we'll see tomorrow. It came in some spots about 35 ft.
My creeper has wheels, so even if the floor is damp, it will be fine.
This is very unusual. We literally had small rivers in the front driveway and behind the house as well. All the drains and runoffs were overwhelmed.
At least it wasn't days of heavy rains and large rivers as many have faced
I had the same deal going. I didn't pull in all the way so I could have extra space to work. Really sucked. Leaves. Water. Dust. Especially when trying to paint stuff
Not hearing the suction thru the filter as much as I was. Not sure if that's just cuz of the rebuild and different wheel
Not hearing the suction thru the filter as much as I was. Not sure if that's just cuz of the rebuild and different wheel
What should my sensor be reading on the boost/MAP? Its idling at like -.03 then it goes up to 3.0 while accelerating. I can only hope that I move the decimal one spot over and Im getting 30 lbs of boost? lol I wish. IDK tho what should it be at? All I did was select boost and the size of the gauge I havent set it up at all


