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Well just brace the door openings or trust the door latches. Tailgate still on? Or I guess you could lighten it as much as possible, take the hood, w/s frame, tailgate and doors (and still brace the openings) to prevent tacoing. Pull the front fenders, steering column, grill shell.
Can you run some square 2x2 tubing parallel to the frame rails and next to the body mounts and then weld (connect) them to each other with cross connectors? That way you are rigging front front and rear direct up to the cross bars (front and rear of the 4 post lift).
I think you would have better luck with the front-end loader on your tractor. Good luck. Hopefully it goes smoothly.
That was the original plan but I don't have one and the local rental place has two, one is down for major repairs and the other is out for a 6 month lease. The other rental place in Wenatchee you have to have a contractors license and Insurance.
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Well just brace the door openings or trust the door latches. Tailgate still on? Or I guess you could lighten it as much as possible, take the hood, w/s frame, tailgate and doors (and still brace the openings) to prevent tacoing. Pull the front fenders, steering column, grill shell.
Can you run some square 2x2 tubing parallel to the frame rails and next to the body mounts and then weld (connect) them to each other with cross connectors? That way you are rigging front front and rear direct up to the cross bars (front and rear of the 4 post lift).
Be careful, keep us posted and take pics.
Thanks for the pro tips. I do plan on removing the front fenders grill shell. I haven't worked on it since I moved it in there. I'll keep you informed.
So to help better explain my thought process, think about when a vehicle body is put on a rotisserie for paint and body work. I believe when the vehicle is not a unibody set up, they built a frame like the actual frame and attach the body on top and the ends to a pivot point. All you need is a rectangle to go up from under and support the body. Mainly the center tub and the inner front clip. That is why with the doors off you still need to weld or bolt brace the (doors not on there) opening. Because the tub can taco since just the floor pan is the main strength with the frame removed. And that is just sheet metal, so not really any strength. Make sense?
That was the original plan but I don't have one and the local rental place has two, one is down for major repairs and the other is out for a 6 month lease. The other rental place in Wenatchee you have to have a contractors license and Insurance.
Thanks for the pro tips. I do plan on removing the front fenders grill shell. I haven't worked on it since I moved it in there. I'll keep you informed.
Don't hesitate to call in help if you need it. I know a few Bronco owners in Ellensburg that would give you a hand. I could probably make the trek myself if needed.
So to help better explain my thought process, think about when a vehicle body is put on a rotisserie for paint and body work. I believe when the vehicle is not a unibody set up, they built a frame like the actual frame and attach the body on top and the ends to a pivot point. All you need is a rectangle to go up from under and support the body. Mainly the center tub and the inner front clip. That is why with the doors off you still need to weld or bolt brace the (doors not on there) opening. Because the tub can taco since just the floor pan is the main strength with the frame removed. And that is just sheet metal, so not really any strength. Make sense?
Yep, I understand. My plan is to strap the roll bar both in the front and in the back to the 4 post and also strap the front clip to the 4 post so when it is lifted it should keep it from bending in the middle. I like Taco's but I don't want my Bronco looking like one.
Originally Posted by dclack
Don't hesitate to call in help if you need it. I know a few Bronco owners in Ellensburg that would give you a hand. I could probably make the trek myself if needed.
Thanks Darren, I know one guy in Ellensburg, Brian, he's a pretty smart guy also. Matter of fact I have some of his old parts on my current build.
Well, it looks like my plan will work. As far as the thing folding in the middle, I don't think I need to worry about that. With the roll bar in there and bolted down it's not going to move. Anyway I have it ready for the switch, I did a test lift and it looks like I will have just enough room to slid the new frame and running gear under it. I already have the springs removed from the new frame, once I get the frame up to the pole barn I well have to remove the tires and wheels and set it on my little dollies so I can slide it sideways. Stay tuned for more exciting news!
I have a couple of issues to deal with, one of the issues is the valve cover is hitting the firewall. I think I have the engine tilted to far back, I'm hoping a shim under the transmission mount will do it.
The header is hitting the inner finder, I haven't checked it out yet but I suspect it is pretty light hit probably just the insulation I have wrapped around the header.
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