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Sep 22, 2016 | 11:02 AM

#136

ctubutis

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From: Denver Metro Area, CO

Quote:

Originally Posted by hharris8

If I remember correctly you said to check for continuity I need to put the test points on the wire on the solenoid and the other on the alternator body and then switch them correct?

"And then switch them?" I don't understand.

This test is to determine if electricity can flow from one end of the wire to the other (Point A and Point B). The best way to do that IMO is to disconnect that subject wire from all other circuitry and *then* test it, this necessarily prevents other wires from interfering in the test.

I don't think you want to test at the *body* of the alternator, though, since that is the alternator's negative side and that wire operates on the positive side.

In any event, nothing jumps out at me in that picture as being alarming; and if it can't be pulled apart (as if the fusible link had blown) then there's a good chance it'll be OK.

Once you get the engine running, immediately put a voltmeter on the battery posts and see what you're getting; should be around 14 - 14.5 or so volts. Should also ensure you have this same voltage at different engine RPMs, not just at idle.

Sep 22, 2016 | 02:15 PM

#137

hharris8

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I tested the battery and it was fully charged with 12.8v. I started the truck and the battery had consistent voltage ranging from 14.45 to 14.7v even when changing to D, R, N, P, etc. The idle was a bit higher than I like in park, but it dropped down to around 850 (by ear) in D.

Sep 22, 2016 | 02:16 PM

#138

hharris8

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Neither the alternator or the wires were hot after 5 minutes. The black wire between the solenoid and the fusible link was warmer than ambient temp, but it was not anywhere near melting hot.

Sep 22, 2016 | 02:54 PM

#139

ArdWrknTrk

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

Quote:

Originally Posted by hharris8

If I remember correctly you said to check for continuity I need to put the test points on the wire on the solenoid and the other on the alternator body and then switch them correct?

That was testing for a bad diode in your OLD alternator.

You seem to have continuity and the new one is charging.
So all is good on that front.

Chris is correct in testing for continuity between the fusible link attachment at the relay and each of the two charging pins of your new pigtail.

You've got to remember that this was days ago, before all the damaged stuff was replaced.

Sep 22, 2016 | 03:56 PM

#140

hharris8

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Ok. The wires were not running hot so I have driven it about 30-40 minutes and the wire still feels cool. I have not touched the alternator (about to go and do so). I assume the alternator should have a little heat though, but just not boiling heat.

Sep 22, 2016 | 04:03 PM

#141

WhatsAChevy?

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Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 2,239

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From: Northeast Ohio USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by hharris8

Wow, speech statements must be a touchy subject here. I scared everyone off. If it helps the 60's, 70's, and 80's had the best trucks.

I am getting emails again by the way.

Given the responses, it'll take more than speech statements to scare us old school codgers away

(I know Chris...your'e Gen X,

lol). Yer doin' fine, no worries.

Sep 22, 2016 | 04:43 PM

#142

hharris8

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The alternator washout, but I could keep my hand on it for about 8-10 seconds. It is no longer at the seared steak sound of hotness. The black wire is not hot at all.