Newest Problem
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The smaller D-shaped connector goes to the voltage regulator, this isn't where the problem lies.
The waxy stuff you're scraping out is a water dispersant/sealant/repellent-type of stuff, people generally use dielectric grease for that purpose these days.
The waxy stuff you're scraping out is a water dispersant/sealant/repellent-type of stuff, people generally use dielectric grease for that purpose these days.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Do you see any problems in the pics that may be causing my issues? I have dielectric grease so I can put some of that upon reassembly.
I have been searching for TSB 96214, but cannot seem to find it. Where should I look?
I have been searching for TSB 96214, but cannot seem to find it. Where should I look?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Jim @ArdWrknTrk has posted the links before, I found some (non-authoritative) stuff searching on:
Ford TSB 96-21-04
maybe that will help?
EDIT: Found this PDF copy of it:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...32479545,d.amc
It's really hard to determine stuff with pictures and I don't see anything jumping out at me (other than stuff needing to be cleaned up at a minimum) and I had totally forgotten about that 2G alternator-fire stuff. And there is always the chance you have more than one problem and this isn't the only thing that's wrong - but begin with what is known to need fixing, one thing at a time.
I'd still be inclined to take the thing in to be tested, it's not putting out the kind of voltage I would expect to be seeing BUT bad connections/burned wiring/etc. can contribute to that, too.
Some guy made a youtube video in which he explains some stuff but it's equally as unclear as anything else.
Also might do some generic searching, e.g.
Ford 2G alternator plug
Ford TSB 96-21-04
maybe that will help?
EDIT: Found this PDF copy of it:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...32479545,d.amc
It's really hard to determine stuff with pictures and I don't see anything jumping out at me (other than stuff needing to be cleaned up at a minimum) and I had totally forgotten about that 2G alternator-fire stuff. And there is always the chance you have more than one problem and this isn't the only thing that's wrong - but begin with what is known to need fixing, one thing at a time.
I'd still be inclined to take the thing in to be tested, it's not putting out the kind of voltage I would expect to be seeing BUT bad connections/burned wiring/etc. can contribute to that, too.
Some guy made a youtube video in which he explains some stuff but it's equally as unclear as anything else.
Also might do some generic searching, e.g.
Ford 2G alternator plug
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The charge plug crumbling or melting is exactly what causes fires with these 2G alternators.
Please unwrap that thing and replace the pigtail *if* the damage hasn't gone too far.
Wire loom, extra tape, or whatever you have going there may look neat, but it is only exacerbating a *known* overheating problem.
Just the other day there was discussion about derating wire capacity because they were not in 'free air'
Things will heat up.
Wires bundled together will heat each other up.
Taping wires together means air cannot flow around them to carry away the heat.
Putting another sleeve over all that is like wrapping it up in a blanket.
The corrosion in your alternator charge socket is causing resistance, which is turning electricity into heat.
Use some electrical contact cleaner and an old toothbrush to get those blades clean and shiny.
Then put some dielectric silicone in there to inhibit oxidation and displace moisture.
Here's a list of pigtails...
Please unwrap that thing and replace the pigtail *if* the damage hasn't gone too far.
Wire loom, extra tape, or whatever you have going there may look neat, but it is only exacerbating a *known* overheating problem.
Just the other day there was discussion about derating wire capacity because they were not in 'free air'
Things will heat up.
Wires bundled together will heat each other up.
Taping wires together means air cannot flow around them to carry away the heat.
Putting another sleeve over all that is like wrapping it up in a blanket.
The corrosion in your alternator charge socket is causing resistance, which is turning electricity into heat.
Use some electrical contact cleaner and an old toothbrush to get those blades clean and shiny.
Then put some dielectric silicone in there to inhibit oxidation and displace moisture.
Here's a list of pigtails...
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Thanks Chris. I could not find that anywhere.
ArdWrkTrk, what is your secret for finding parts? I had been searching for that pigtail for a half hour when you posted to no avail. I will unwrap the wires. The cover is supposed to keep heat out, but I did not think about it keeping it in. The electrical tape is only on the ends to keeps the sleeve put.
Since the two wire connector is falling apart should I replace it as well? What part number is that?
ArdWrkTrk, what is your secret for finding parts? I had been searching for that pigtail for a half hour when you posted to no avail. I will unwrap the wires. The cover is supposed to keep heat out, but I did not think about it keeping it in. The electrical tape is only on the ends to keeps the sleeve put.
Since the two wire connector is falling apart should I replace it as well? What part number is that?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Welcome, Jumpski. 
Might check here for your D-shaped thing (follow the link to the ID guide):
https://www.fordparts.com/Products/W...gtailKits.aspx
I have no idea where Jim gets the aftermarket numbers from but this is a 20 yo problem so there's been plenty of time.
Might check here for your D-shaped thing (follow the link to the ID guide):
https://www.fordparts.com/Products/W...gtailKits.aspx
I have no idea where Jim gets the aftermarket numbers from but this is a 20 yo problem so there's been plenty of time.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
My 2G harness was replaced twice and when it failed a third time I said #$@&*£×¥ this!!!
Bought a conversion kit from the now defunct RJM, and a 130A Motorcraft 3G from Ebay for $75 delivered.
I have seen a lot of threads about the plugs melting so I cross referenced the part numbers and put them all in one post so people that were reading about the problem would have enough options.
My truck uses the 'ASI' three wire regulator plug. (the white/black stator wire goes to my electric choke)
You could always just cap or cut off the 'S' wire...
Bought a conversion kit from the now defunct RJM, and a 130A Motorcraft 3G from Ebay for $75 delivered.
I have seen a lot of threads about the plugs melting so I cross referenced the part numbers and put them all in one post so people that were reading about the problem would have enough options.
My truck uses the 'ASI' three wire regulator plug. (the white/black stator wire goes to my electric choke)
You could always just cap or cut off the 'S' wire...
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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I got the Dorman replacement part and it should arrive Thursday. If it melts again I will probably convert.
Do I just drop by AutoZone to get the alternator tested? Can I do it myself?
Do I just drop by AutoZone to get the alternator tested? Can I do it myself?
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Once you replace the charge pigtail and clean the contacts do the diode test again.
Try it with the leads both ways. i.e. Red on the solenoid end and black on alternator case, then black on the eyelet end and red on the case.
Try it with the leads both ways. i.e. Red on the solenoid end and black on alternator case, then black on the eyelet end and red on the case.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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I will try and bring the alternator by there sometime this week though and get it tested.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,830
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From: Angier, NC
I got to sleep in today till 2am. Did 400 miles yesterday & today. When I am not doing cement they put me on LP gas tank trailer.
Job is 1 reason why I have not worked on my truck lately, just too tired when it’s not too hot.
Can you see what is on the other end of the ground bolt? There may be a nut and them come right off? If not then can you get a grinder in there to grind the head of the bolt off and then push what is left out the other way.
Dave ----
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If you have a grinder in there you may as well use it to clean up the mounting surface before bolting the strap back on.
I usually put Noalox on things like this and behind the grounding ears of my starter relay.
I usually put Noalox on things like this and behind the grounding ears of my starter relay.