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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
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Elder User
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I do not use Microsoft writing software so I would not know.
I have the piece and will get that put on soon along with bringing the alternator to the auto shop to get tested. I have had a heavy week in classes so I have not gotten anything done.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I don't remember where I picked that up but it's something that Google came up with (has nothing to do with Microsoft or Apple or anybody else).
l m g t f y .com (without the spaces) type in your search term, click a button, copy the resulting URL it gives you into a post here and ba-da-boom there you be.
l m g t f y .com (without the spaces) type in your search term, click a button, copy the resulting URL it gives you into a post here and ba-da-boom there you be.
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I was quoting your signature "Microsoft is writing software for the kind of people who'd type google into the google search bar to get to google." Though I started thinking and all of my class essays are written using Microsoft word.
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I replaced the connector and put dielectric grease on all of the grounds. I then got the alternator tested and it failed 3 times. I need to replace it. Do y'all have any suggestions for what type to buy?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
You have a new connector now.
The simplest would be to just get a store brand rebuild with lifetime warranty.
You said the fusible link was getting smoking hot.
How does it look?
Have you ohmed it out from the solenoid eyelet to each of the black/orange pins of the new socket?
The simplest would be to just get a store brand rebuild with lifetime warranty.
You said the fusible link was getting smoking hot.
How does it look?
Have you ohmed it out from the solenoid eyelet to each of the black/orange pins of the new socket?
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Posting Guru
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
X 2 and replace that fusible link.
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Elder User
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AutoZone has alternators that are 60, 65, 70, and 100 amps, but none seem to have the same connector plug ins for the LTD II or Bronco. The have post on top instead. What truck should I search for to get the correct match?
Posting Guru
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
I would shoot for the highest amp possible. For the fusible link, you can cut back as far as possible on both ends, strip and splice in a new link of the same size. I would advise using quality connectors such as a heat shrink style being careful to avoid the link wire when heating (heat "lightly" from the center of the connector).
I have to give you kudos though. You are tenacious in attacking so many issues with this truck with due diligence.
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This is one of those times when you may have to take the alternator into a parts store and try to do a match up and explain what you have.
I would shoot for the highest amp possible. For the fusible link, you can cut back as far as possible on both ends, strip and splice in a new link of the same size. I would advise using quality connectors such as a heat shrink style being careful to avoid the link wire when heating (heat "lightly" from the center of the connector).
I have to give you kudos though. You are tenacious in attacking so many issues with this truck with due diligence.
I would shoot for the highest amp possible. For the fusible link, you can cut back as far as possible on both ends, strip and splice in a new link of the same size. I would advise using quality connectors such as a heat shrink style being careful to avoid the link wire when heating (heat "lightly" from the center of the connector).
I have to give you kudos though. You are tenacious in attacking so many issues with this truck with due diligence.
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-8122PT-G...s=fusible+link