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Battery is charged to 14.5v. With truck running the alternator is putting off 12.95v by putting + probe on + battery post and - probe on braided ground strap. With truck off the wire that gets melting hot when touching - probe to - battery post and + probe to hot wire there are 11.5v. That is with he truck off. Is that supposed to be like that? I then redid the alternator test as above with truck off and there was no voltage that I detected.
What you're describing is confusing, why do you use two different ground points for measurement? The only braided ground I'm familiar with in the general area is between the hood & firewall.
Less confusing: Put the probes directly on the battery posts, not on any cables. With the probes in the exact same places, what are the voltage readings with the engine running and with it not running?
I'm sorry, I should have never sent you to read the diagnostics in the EVTM; I did that, they send you to the shop manual for the true diagnostics (which I don't have for your configuration with a 2G alternator).
Battery truck off: 11.84v
Truck on: 11.90v
Battery neg post to alternator pos wire that gets hot: 11.64v
My alternator mount bracket has a braided ground strap that hooks to the frame. I also have one that hooks from the hood to the firewall and one other that connects the the firewall and is not connected on the other side near the heater ( looks like wire crimp on disconnected end, but it has been like that for a very long time by the looks of it.)
By "truck on" I'm guessing this means with the engine running and not just with the ignition turned on, correct?
You should have a ground from the rear of the engine to the firewall, my guess is that's not connected right now but likely isn't the cause of your problem.
You also said something about there being a spark when you reconnected the alternator output to the starter solenoid, correct?
But I just thought of something... a 1970s sedan engine likely has a 1G alternator, and a mid-80s truck charging system used a 2G... we have no idea what you're configuration is, can you post some pictures everything? Particularly the front & rear of the alternator and what would be the voltage regulator on a 1G system near the starter solenoid.
I would also be inclined to remove the alternator and take it to a parts store to have it tested.
If post #35 means that he disconnected the charge cable from the starter relay (solenoid) with the engine running it's no wonder the alternator got smoking (boiling) hot.
It is trying to balance system voltage but has no connection to the battery.
If post #35 means that he disconnected the charge cable from the starter relay (solenoid) with the engine running it's no wonder the alternator got smoking (boiling) hot.
It is trying to balance system voltage but has no connection to the battery.
I reread post 35 and it was confusing. I have fixed it. I unhooked the wire from the solenoid when the truck was off.
Pretty good pictures.
So if I get it right it is the big red cable (from batt + ?) on the solenoid that gets hot?
When does this get hot when running or just after you start the truck and then it cools down?
What does the black wire(s) behind the red cable go to? Is that the power feed to the inside of truck?
Where does the ALT out put wire tie into the big red cable or the batt?
I/we would like to see where the batt - cable goes to, is it motor or frame?
I would also clean the braided wire end that bolts to the body so we know it has a good connection.
Dave ----
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