Newest Problem
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
If it was flooding because of too high of fuel psi it would start to run ruff and black smoke out the tail pipe(s) before it would shut down.
From what I get the motor just shuts off like someone turned the key off, right?
That is a sign of no spark / bad box.
Dave ----
From what I get the motor just shuts off like someone turned the key off, right?
That is a sign of no spark / bad box.
Dave ----
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Jumping the solenoid is NOT the same as turning the key to START!!!
The thing in the distributor instructs the module to fire the coil, it does this by controlling the GROUND connection. The ICM has a different power source in START than it does in RUN, this is controlled by the ignition switch.
The thing in the distributor instructs the module to fire the coil, it does this by controlling the GROUND connection. The ICM has a different power source in START than it does in RUN, this is controlled by the ignition switch.
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Elder User
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After I get it started it runs great (except for the time the PCV was unhooked). I have run it up to a minute ago periodically shutting it off and starting it back up with the key. It starts right off the bat like it is fixed.
One thing I did do is the truck was "cadillacing" when I shut it off so I retarded the distributor to 8 BTDC. I now, after running at different settings, have it at 13 BTDC where both 12 and 13 does not cadillac. It is as advanced as the adjustable range will allow and it runs good. My TDC mark may have been off by 1 or 2. Could being retarded to far be the problem of not starting and maybe the not sparking had something to do with me doing something wrong? Though the truck should start way of the correct timing even though it will run very badly won't it?
One thing I did do is the truck was "cadillacing" when I shut it off so I retarded the distributor to 8 BTDC. I now, after running at different settings, have it at 13 BTDC where both 12 and 13 does not cadillac. It is as advanced as the adjustable range will allow and it runs good. My TDC mark may have been off by 1 or 2. Could being retarded to far be the problem of not starting and maybe the not sparking had something to do with me doing something wrong? Though the truck should start way of the correct timing even though it will run very badly won't it?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,830
Likes: 4,096
From: Angier, NC
After I get it started it runs great (except for the time the PCV was unhooked). I have run it up to a minute ago periodically shutting it off and starting it back up with the key. It starts right off the bat like it is fixed.
One thing I did do is the truck was "cadillacing" when I shut it off so I retarded the distributor to 8 BTDC. I now, after running at different settings, have it at 13 BTDC where both 12 and 13 does not cadillac. It is as advanced as the adjustable range will allow and it runs good. My TDC mark may have been off by 1 or 2. Could being retarded to far be the problem of not starting and maybe the not sparking had something to do with me doing something wrong? Though the truck should start way of the correct timing even though it will run very badly won't it?
One thing I did do is the truck was "cadillacing" when I shut it off so I retarded the distributor to 8 BTDC. I now, after running at different settings, have it at 13 BTDC where both 12 and 13 does not cadillac. It is as advanced as the adjustable range will allow and it runs good. My TDC mark may have been off by 1 or 2. Could being retarded to far be the problem of not starting and maybe the not sparking had something to do with me doing something wrong? Though the truck should start way of the correct timing even though it will run very badly won't it?
That would be dieseling. Most if not all the time it is caused by idle set too high. What is yours set to and what does the sticker say? If you have an auto turn it off in gear and see if that helps.
Timing off will not stop the spark when looking for spark but may keep the motor from starting. If it is running now and you get no pinging lock the dist. down where it is and drive the truck some.
Also check and set the idle to factory rpm.
Dave ----
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I am not sure what the factory RPM is. I have it a 950 idle in neutral. The gas, or at least some of it, is 5+ years old. I found the problem. The electrical cleaner I use melts electrical tape or causes it to get sticky and on the distributor 3 prong connector the electrical tape leaked onto a prong that was already backing out to far and that was causing it not to fire. I cleaned the prong, removed the tape, and plugged it in well and it fired right up.
Dieseling makes better since. One of my older friends called it cadillacing.
Dieseling makes better since. One of my older friends called it cadillacing.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I am not sure what the factory RPM is. I have it a 950 idle in neutral. The gas, or at least some of it, is 5+ years old. I found the problem. The electrical cleaner I use melts electrical tape or causes it to get sticky and on the distributor 3 prong connector the electrical tape leaked onto a prong that was already backing out to far and that was causing it not to fire. I cleaned the prong, removed the tape, and plugged it in well and it fired right up.
Dieseling makes better since. One of my older friends called it cadillacing.
Dieseling makes better since. One of my older friends called it cadillacing.
The other thing that might hurt both getting the idle down lower and how the motor runs is that bad gas.
Good to hear you found why the no spark issue.
Dave ----
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Okay, I lowered the RPM's to 750 in N. A couple of things happened. One is there was periodical smoke in the engine compartment that I could not find the source of. It smelled kinda sweet (exhaust does not smell sweet) and it would last about 10 seconds. It did this two times and I have no idea what caused it or what made it stop. The other thing that happened is that the passenger side exhaust (the truck is leaning to that side) had water dripping and spraying out enough to get your hand wet in about 15-20 seconds. It was clear water, not coolant or oil.
I did make my spark plug wire replacements (spark plug wire kit) so one of them could be misfiring and causing this I guess. Can I check the spark plug wires using continuity (though the wire connected to the terminal has a rubber sleeve) or some other method off of the truck?
I did make my spark plug wire replacements (spark plug wire kit) so one of them could be misfiring and causing this I guess. Can I check the spark plug wires using continuity (though the wire connected to the terminal has a rubber sleeve) or some other method off of the truck?
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I sniffed the engine and my pyrotechnic childhood came in handy. The burning smell reminds me of burning rubber. I saw a small wispy stream of smoke coming from behind/under/in the alternator. I was also, soldering wires yesterday in there and some solder may have dripped somewhere down there, but it does not really smell like solder. Is the alternator supposed to burn your hand when you touch it after running for about 5 minutes?
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The smoking has seemed to stop. I have found that the lower the RPM's the more water in the exhaust. I caught some in a cup and compared it to my coolant and though both had a tint of brown (like rust) my coolant seemed to be greener (no green was in exhaust) so hopefully it is not that.
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My coolant level has stayed the same though since I put the intake manifold back on so I do not think I am burning coolant, but like I stated earlier water could be in the gas.
The ignition coil vibrates heavily while the engine is running. Does this mean I have a cylinder misfire somewhere? I cannot feel that much of a shake inside, but there is a little bit. How can I tell if all cylinders are firing?
The ignition coil vibrates heavily while the engine is running. Does this mean I have a cylinder misfire somewhere? I cannot feel that much of a shake inside, but there is a little bit. How can I tell if all cylinders are firing?