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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
A fusible link is essentially a smaller gauge wire spliced into a segment of a larger gauge wire which will burn/break/fail protecting the components that the larger gauge wire feeds/services. Cut the fusible link out and take it with you when matching the alternator. Buy it about 6 inches longer. AP stores carry it in packaged lengths and cut to length from a roll/reel.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Purchase an alternator from the parts store that they say is for your truck, or that at least appears to offer the best chance of working for your installation; you would be safe with the one with the highest amperage capability. The alternator that came with a sedan would be a 1G which is different than your 2G (1st generation, 2nd generation).
I wouldn't give up the old one as a core until the new one was installed and working (at least physically attached and hooked up).
I suggest using solder & heat-shrink tubing if you're going to be replacing wiring components (e.g. fusible links) or doing any other such work.
I wouldn't give up the old one as a core until the new one was installed and working (at least physically attached and hooked up).
I suggest using solder & heat-shrink tubing if you're going to be replacing wiring components (e.g. fusible links) or doing any other such work.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
When comparing alternators, many of the differences will be the locations of the mounting ears in relation to the electrical connections, the sizes of the mounting holes (and maybe threaded sizes, if any) things of that nature. Compare physical attributes & sizes.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The truck has a 2G, he should replace with a 2G.
They are all 65A.
Clocking may differ.
all Windsor engines take 7" C-C pivot mounts.
The charge plug pigtail kits come with adhesive lined butt crimps.
.... it's good enough for Ford, it's okay in this situation.
I am not sure what any of this has to do with hharris8's insistence that this is engine is from a '70's passenger car.
Should I insist that my engine is from a '79 based on the block casting #?
They are all 65A.
Clocking may differ.
all Windsor engines take 7" C-C pivot mounts.
The charge plug pigtail kits come with adhesive lined butt crimps.
.... it's good enough for Ford, it's okay in this situation.
I am not sure what any of this has to do with hharris8's insistence that this is engine is from a '70's passenger car.
Should I insist that my engine is from a '79 based on the block casting #?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
The truck has a 2G, he should replace with a 2G.
They are all 65A.
Clocking may differ.
all Windsor engines take 7" C-C pivot mounts.
The charge plug pigtail kits come with adhesive lined butt crimps.
.... it's good enough for Ford, it's okay in this situation.
I am not sure what any of this has to do with hharris8's insistence that this is engine is from a '70's passenger car.
Should I insist that my engine is from a '79 based on the block casting #?
They are all 65A.
Clocking may differ.
all Windsor engines take 7" C-C pivot mounts.
The charge plug pigtail kits come with adhesive lined butt crimps.
.... it's good enough for Ford, it's okay in this situation.
I am not sure what any of this has to do with hharris8's insistence that this is engine is from a '70's passenger car.
Should I insist that my engine is from a '79 based on the block casting #?
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Likely he doesn't know what clocking is, and maybe C-C.
The term clocking refers to the case half and how it is orientated (rotated) before before attached to the other half/remainder of the body and basically determines where the electrical connections get orientated.
The term C-C is 'center to center' used for measuring purposes.
Just trying to clarify for readers.
Electrical, there are various techniques & methods, I'm just trying to reinforce that good connections are necessary for reliable use in a hot & dirty underhood environment.
The term clocking refers to the case half and how it is orientated (rotated) before before attached to the other half/remainder of the body and basically determines where the electrical connections get orientated.
The term C-C is 'center to center' used for measuring purposes.
Just trying to clarify for readers.
Electrical, there are various techniques & methods, I'm just trying to reinforce that good connections are necessary for reliable use in a hot & dirty underhood environment.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
Likely he doesn't know what clocking is, and maybe C-C.
The term clocking refers to the case half and how it is orientated (rotated) before before attached to the other half/remainder of the body and basically determines where the electrical connections get orientated.
The term C-C is 'center to center' used for measuring purposes.
Just trying to clarify for readers.
Electrical, there are various techniques & methods, I'm just trying to reinforce that good connections are necessary for reliable use in a hot & dirty underhood environment.
The term clocking refers to the case half and how it is orientated (rotated) before before attached to the other half/remainder of the body and basically determines where the electrical connections get orientated.
The term C-C is 'center to center' used for measuring purposes.
Just trying to clarify for readers.
Electrical, there are various techniques & methods, I'm just trying to reinforce that good connections are necessary for reliable use in a hot & dirty underhood environment.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Once again, Chris I apologize for spouting off without any detailed explanations of the how & why.
The old RJM website used to show the various clocking so you could decide which you had and which of the different orientations you needed.
I had hotlinked those photos into some threads, but their server and those images are long gone now.
I think it best to use the old one to compare.
Surprised that hharris8 did not do this while in the store after it tested bad.
The old RJM website used to show the various clocking so you could decide which you had and which of the different orientations you needed.
I had hotlinked those photos into some threads, but their server and those images are long gone now.
I think it best to use the old one to compare.
Surprised that hharris8 did not do this while in the store after it tested bad.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Another possibility comes to mind - some people in today's society (usually "the kids" in my experience) like to do all their shopping online for whatever reason, maybe they want to do some more investigation before spending any money, or maybe they don't trust the offerings or personnel of a local brick & mortar store.
Or maybe there are other reasons, too, that's just what came to mind.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
I do know how to solder. The only way I splice wire is by pushing the two wires together where the wires are well in mingled and then twisting. I then solder and put heat shrink tubing over it.
The fusible link on there now is in a semicircle case. It can be seen in one of my pictures. It is orange on the black wire. Does it just have a smaller diameter wire inside it?
I did not get a replacement at the auto store because I wanted to check with y'all first and get any suggestions before buying. (I also was expecting the alternator to test good since I never had battery issues so I did not bring any money).
I will bring it back by the auto store and get a match.
Thanks for clarifying C&C. That is some good info.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 816
Likes: 0
I already replaced the pigtail which came with shrink tubing and crimps. Since I had a crimping tool and the manufacturer wanted me to use crimps, I did not use solder there.I did add dielectric grease before putting on the shrink tubing though.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You are fine with crimps and shrink tubing.
The Ford engineers used this method to speed/simplify the repair and eliminate the variable of cold solder joints.
Since there was liability involved, lawyer-speak in the TSB says "inspect any time the charging system is serviced"
I'm sorry, I didn't think about going to the parts store with no money.
btdt.
The Ford engineers used this method to speed/simplify the repair and eliminate the variable of cold solder joints.
Since there was liability involved, lawyer-speak in the TSB says "inspect any time the charging system is serviced"
I'm sorry, I didn't think about going to the parts store with no money.
btdt.