Full resto finally
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
I don't want to start the flame war. I'm just documenting. Turns out in the first one to do a cab support and put pictures on the internet for these trucks. At least that I can find. So the info is here. The welder is junk and has been beat around forever it's a flux core 110 mig so the welds ain't pretty but thy are strong. You want to see good welds wait till I break out the stick welder for the flatbed. Ironically i probably could get better results from the stick welder than the mig. Either way it's strong and functions and the sheet metal is nearly done and the next phase is coming soon.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Pull the stick out of your ***. I was giving him a compliment
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
the beauty of of not being able to show emotion in text.
Gotta go go to the dentist and will need a few days to recoupe. They say no heavy lifting for some reason. So not sure what I will get done this weekend.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
I think I took a few too make knocks to the head. But I'm not legally insane for fixing the cab. I fully agree a donor would be much easier but I've put a ton of my les a n that cab and want to keep it
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Well got some welding done. The floor pan is almost in. I also filled a few cracks by the floor to firewall joint.
I got bored with the welding. So I started putting in some of the redneck dynamat. It's just rubber roof flashing stuff. But it works and makes a difference.
Also so while I was getting my teeth pulled and recovering I started looking into the design for the air suspension. I want to do a 3 link front and rear but would like something heavier in the rear and am considering something like a semi with a z spring but with the z spring being solid with a bushing. I got to do some work with calculators and design a few things first to see which is best. Please give any input you can.
On to pics.
For or some reason it keeps putting them at the top. Anyone know why?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
Am I the only one concerned with the quality of those "welds" on something as important as this?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
It's a stitch weld with a 110 flux core mig with 2 voltage settings it looks like hell but has fully penetrated and is bonded well. I had some concern areas cause the welder is junk and put a heavy bead on. It's been tested with a hammer and me jumping in it just to make sure I don't see any issues. The plug welds were on high voltage and penetrated deep. They are carrying the structure the stitch welds are for looks more than anything.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
It's a stitch weld with a 110 flux core mig with 2 voltage settings it looks like hell but has fully penetrated and is bonded well. I had some concern areas cause the welder is junk and put a heavy bead on. It's been tested with a hammer and me jumping in it just to make sure I don't see any issues. The plug welds were on high voltage and penetrated deep. They are carrying the structure the stitch welds are for looks more than anything.
The amount of porosity and voids in the welds is just inviting moisture to collect and rust out all the work you're doing, so you might have to do this work again down the road.
The apparent lack of surface prep, the 1/4" gaps between panels, and sections of unwelded gaps are other areas of concern.
But it's your truck. If you're happy with it, keep going. But you may want to revisit some of that work before you paint it and call it done.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Well that's how you have to weld sheet with a butt joint. A solid weld will just blow out. I could have lap jointed it and done better but I want it somewhat smooth. The welds have had primer before and after rust should not be an issue for a long time. I know there are some larger gaps. But they will get a filler piece. I have not filled anything more than 1/8 inch gap.
Im planning something for the suspension. I think a 3 link front and link arm style for the rear. Think z spring semi suspension. Depending on the bags used it may get a z or just flat. I think I want the strength of large box tuning over the room of a smaller round tube. Plus the bushings will help locate and rubber bushings will be easier.
Im planning something for the suspension. I think a 3 link front and link arm style for the rear. Think z spring semi suspension. Depending on the bags used it may get a z or just flat. I think I want the strength of large box tuning over the room of a smaller round tube. Plus the bushings will help locate and rubber bushings will be easier.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
Well that's how you have to weld sheet with a butt joint. A solid weld will just blow out. I could have lap jointed it and done better but I want it somewhat smooth. The welds have had primer before and after rust should not be an issue for a long time. I know there are some larger gaps. But they will get a filler piece. I have not filled anything more than 1/8 inch gap.
Im planning something for the suspension. I think a 3 link front and link arm style for the rear. Think z spring semi suspension. Depending on the bags used it may get a z or just flat. I think I want the strength of large box tuning over the room of a smaller round tube. Plus the bushings will help locate and rubber bushings will be easier.
Im planning something for the suspension. I think a 3 link front and link arm style for the rear. Think z spring semi suspension. Depending on the bags used it may get a z or just flat. I think I want the strength of large box tuning over the room of a smaller round tube. Plus the bushings will help locate and rubber bushings will be easier.
I'm fully aware of how to weld sheet metal, and based on the pics, that's not it. Even the parts you've sanded down and primered over have porosity, holes, and gaps.
But it's your truck. If you're happy with it, then great. It just a bit concerning though...