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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Full resto finally

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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 88beast
My current setup is a t70 turbo on a stock 093 ats Kit arp stufs type 4 cam green filter and other mods if your interested I'll do a package deal on the performance parts. I also have a tuned up stock pump pop tested injectors and stock turbo cal pump is part with. Pm me for more info
I'm unable to send a pm. I'm new to this so I'm not sure why. My email is chadshows@gmail.com if that is ok. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 09:04 PM
  #17  
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Got the rear tank removed yesterday. Today I cleaned up the brackets and hope to get some paint on them in the next week. I also worked out my plan for everything to get it done right. More this weekend
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 10:42 AM
  #18  
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Started rust repair. Got the pass floor cut out and the new inner rocker put in. I'm thinking of doing a write up on the floor repair is there is any interest. Here's some pics.


Former repair down and dirty style. Just needed to get it done




Rust on the previous repair the cheap paint did not last long




The a pillar was pretty bad too




Hole cut out to clean metal. This is the good side




Rocker roughly attached.




Rocker to a polar setup. Used the stock spot weld holes dat were not even welded




Drivers door gap.




New pass door gap afterwards. You can see how much better it is already. I still have some tweaking to do
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 12:13 AM
  #19  
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Got a lot of small stuff done here and there. Some parts cleaned up and floor work. But the big update there is a huge trans in my garage. It's a 7 speed Eaton with a 12-1 low and direct high. I'll have 5 inches either side of the trans for exhaust so it will be close but doable. After the floors r done the can will be pulled to mock up the trans. It should clear the can floor with a small 1-2 inch body lift. But this thing is massive and will need to hang below the frame a bit. However it will have air suspension too which I will pick the ride height on.


Seam sealed floor. Messy but functional. I have a little more to patch on this side and I used rust converter and undercoating inside the can mount should be good for another 20 plus years




Buddy of mine sitting next to the beast of a trans
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 12:15 AM
  #20  
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Oh and I need to figure out what the torque rating on this thing is if anyone has some input. I know it's either a 8607b or 1407b due to the ratio. But I would like to know more. There is no I'd tag. Either way it will take the abuse of a 400 hp build.
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 12:20 AM
  #21  
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More floor pics


Big section cut out




Cab support is dirty but only surface rust and salvageable




A pillar was patched back in also
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #22  
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Got the pass floor done except more seam sealer. And made a rear cross member out of a mustang fog light bracket.

The trans is an 11607b which means I should be able to get a 1610 yoke for it. I will also need an Sae 2 bell. Plus I'm still looking for an engine. I took some measurements and it looks like a 2 inch body lift will clear the trans without issues.



Rear trans X member. It will be spring mounted like factory. I will also be using the bell mounts. I need a new bell and a new yoke to work well in the truck






Can corner done needs bondo to smooth it out.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2016 | 10:16 PM
  #23  
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Also to anyone who has done a can support replacement did you do it on or off the truck? I'm debating here as with cab off frame will be much easier and with cab on frame I will have everything lined up well. I will be pulling the cab anyway to mount the trans and paint it.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #24  
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Bought the cab support and body bushings today they should be in for next week. We'll see if I have time to pull the old engine and trans then it's time to mount the new trans and move the body back. I spend 2 weeks fixing my sewer so there has been a small delay but I'll be back on it next weekend. Anyone use hockey pucks for a body lift? I'm not happy with the plastic ones and the cost I think rubber would be better.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 02:06 AM
  #25  
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I admire the work to the cab, but how are your laws regarding cab swaps? I know you'd have to move a vin, but if you did it quietly or showed proof of ownership the bureaucrats might ok it?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 09:13 PM
  #26  
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In pa it sucks you have to bring both cabs to a certified shop then they will swap them for u. They r the only ones allowed to have the special rivets and cops r trained to look at the rivers I've seen it before. You can not even cut and weld within 6 inches legally but it's a who will know thing. However I wanted to keep it as original as possible and I did not want to change the whole cab.

And thanks I try to do well but I could have done more grinding to smooth it out but now I can jump on the rocker without flex. The other side will be coming soon.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #27  
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Got the tranny painted and cleaned up on top and started figuring out the mounts today. I think I will do a clamshell around the stock bell mount as its 3 inch dia and I can get pipe dat size easily. It'll have a clamshell style mount with welded on tabs for bolts. Pics tomorrow if I remember.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2016 | 01:36 PM
  #28  
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Trying to figure out how this is a 'restoration' build.

You are changing the engine, transmission and bed. There won't be much left of the original truck. Wouldn't it have easier to buy the patch panels instead of cutting up another cab? Your's being a regular and the donor an extended cab I'd think some of the sheet metal would be different.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2016 | 04:07 PM
  #29  
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To each his own.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
To each his own.
Well sure. Just don't try to call this a restoration. Words mean things.
 
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