When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anyone know of an after market stereo that will fit in the stock holes and look somewhat original? My high school age daughter will be the main driver and my choices are to rebuild and leave the original AM radio and hide a stereo in the glove box or find something to fit in the stock holes and store the Am away.
Also at this point I am 90% sure I will be swapping the cabs. It has a whole lot less rust and it looks like I won't have to buy any panels as all the rust spots are small. This weekend is supposed to be no rain so sunup to sundown I will be on the roof but after I can dig into the truck. I think at this point all I have left to pull is the steering box/column to remove the bed. Sure glad I didn't clean up and paint the firewall this week. Was getting started and the wife reminded me that I am backlogged with about 632 hours of honey do's......
I think LMC has some aftermarket stereos with FM, Bluetooth, etc that look like an old school radio but they aren't round like the one you have. I think I would go the glove box route. Just tough to mess with a glove box radio while driving.
I think LMC has some aftermarket stereos with FM, Bluetooth, etc that look like an old school radio but they aren't round like the one you have. I think I would go the glove box route. Just tough to mess with a glove box radio while driving.
If I go the glovebox route, I will make sure I get a stereo with bluetooth as well as a remote. I have that in my F350 and love it. My wife has a 2008 Dub Edition Charger with an 11 speaker Kicker stereo and she prefers to drive my truck because of the stereo.
I took a stock 4 tube radio and had it modified with a solid state AM/FM module. The original radios do not have push button channel selection, but if you are looking for a totally stock appearance this might work for you. I also removed the old speaker and installed a pair of little "Kicker" speakers in the dash. It works very well. I did a thread on it a while back.
Is that an inset around the speaker hole? No hole in the new cab. I'm relocating the gas tank so I am thinking behind the seat and under dash speakers.
I might be better off just installing a hidden stereo at this time and readdressing installing the stock for another day down the road.
Nice truck good job. ON your c notch. I started the same project. It looks to me I can only cut about a 1/2" out of the frame before the diff hits the bed floor? Has someone checked this clearance before. I no longer have the bed spacers. Is there a rubber spacer at the front and rear bolt hole. If so how thick? I can make the wood spacers for the middle.
Is that an inset around the speaker hole? No hole in the new cab. I'm relocating the gas tank so I am thinking behind the seat and under dash speakers.
I might be better off just installing a hidden stereo at this time and readdressing installing the stock for another day down the road.
They do make classic style radios that are updated altho none like oldbleu's example. But, you could find one that looks vintage and from a Ford and then cut a hole for it, or hang it under the dash. Some of them are pretty reasonable $$$; here's an example, there are other companies:
Nowadays the kids play everything off their iPhone. If you don't want to mess with the dash, you could put a head unit in the glove box that can be controlled by a phone. I have seen them installed in a custom box on the ceiling just above the rear view mirror.
That website that Fljab mentioned is pretty cool. Something on there called SecretAudio that as a wireless controller to something that mounts under the seat or in the glovebox.
There is nothing around the speaker hole. It looks like there is something going on but that is just old paint. The speaker hole is actually 5 holes as it comes Ford (see picture). I hogged the hole out to accommodate the twin speakers needed for "FM stereo". The stock AM radio only needed a single speaker. My modified stock radio can now run 5 speakers.
Nice truck good job. ON your c notch. I started the same project. It looks to me I can only cut about a 1/2" out of the frame before the diff hits the bed floor? Has someone checked this clearance before. I no longer have the bed spacers. Is there a rubber spacer at the front and rear bolt hole. If so how thick? I can make the wood spacers for the middle.
I'm not sure exactly how much room I am going to have once the bed is on. I'll make sure my bumpstops are set to avoid the bed and differential contacting each other.
When I took my bed off, what was left of the the wood sorta disintegrated into thin air. I think I am going to make my own kit out of some old 1/2" conveyor belt I have. Once I find out the specs for the first and last spacer, I'll run a string across and measure each one. For any gaps bigger than the conveyor belt, I'll cut some steel plate spacers.
Is it just me, or is there something I am missing when I try to search for a specific topic. I am trying to find any posts related to cutting out and replacing the sheetmetal for the stock gas tank filler hole.
Nice truck good job. ON your c notch. I started the same project. It looks to me I can only cut about a 1/2" out of the frame before the diff hits the bed floor? Has someone checked this clearance before. I no longer have the bed spacers. Is there a rubber spacer at the front and rear bolt hole. If so how thick? I can make the wood spacers for the middle.
Your post gots me curious. I'm not sure how high the bed sits above the frame at the c-notch It will clear for sure but will have less travel than my c-notch. It got met me thinking that maybe I should raise the bed floor a couple inches or just add a raised deck.
I hate to cut into the floor but I can do a clean cut and save the piece to put back in at a later date if I need to. I am going to be cutting into the back for a gas tank filler.
Band practice was cancelled so I was able to separate the front clip from the cab I was given last week and get a good look. I am very pleased.
I soaked all the mounting bolts with PB blaster and almost everything came apart as it was supposed to. There is much lass rust repair on this cab and I wont have to buy any panels except one step. Bonus is I can use the whole driver's side fender with very little work. All the mounting bolts are solid and usable. I can also use the back half of the passenger fender. Very repairable rust and the mounting bolts are there and solid.
It will need new front cab mounts and some sheet metal replaced around the mounts. Very happy with this find. It was worth the price of FREE. Here are some pictures.
Cab and front clip separated pretty easily. Only bolts that broke were the two on the L bracket between the firewall and top of fender.
Front window frame is in great shape. Looks like there were no leaks.
Back window frame in great shape too.
Firewall is really straight and unmolested. I think I might cherry out the engine compartment now. Maybe even repaint with Seafoam Green.
Dash is not padded like the original cab and there is no radio but both of these are actually a plus now. I can clean this up and cherry it out pretty easy. I'll hide a stereo and speaker and use a remote and bluetooth.
Needs front cab supports and a little sheet metal but not floorboards like the other cab. Dimmer switch is there also and it checks out good with a multimeter.
Passenger side cab support needs to be replaced as well as a little sheet metal.
Need to replace this step but I think I can save the riser. I have the old cab to scavenge from if I need some prebent metal. Passenger side is good so I'll have to find a replacement that looks the same vs fabricating a flat step like my plan on the original cab. Rocker panel is good.
Passenger step, rocker and riser are usable with some cleaning up.
This looks a lot less intimidating than trying to fabricate a whole corner like the other cab.
Passenger side is a lot better though the corner has a hole.
Passenger side corner.
The back looks great. Apparently no leaks from the window.
Bonus battery tray. Mine is rusted clear through so I am happy to see that they couldn't get one of the bolts out.
I can use the whole fender so no cutting and welding.
It has one rust hole but I can fix that pretty easily. All the mounting bolts are there and solid.
I can use the back half of the passenger fender but it will need a little metal massaging....
Inside of the passenger fender looks great. Both of my fender were rusted so bad the inner support as well as the bottom mounting bolts were rusted and gone. Glad there are in good shape.
Here is the padded dash on the original cab. Think I am gonna part with it. Not necessarily for sale but I do like to trade.
Rest of the padded dash.
They did maim the dash to put in spot lights. This was an old farm truck and before drip tape, All the row crops were flooded and the workers had to watch the fields 24/7. All the trucks had spot lights.
I owned a 1998 Explorer in factory "Seafoam Green" color. It was a wonderful 'soft' color and would look great on and old truck as well, though I'm sure it was around a long time before.
Good nluck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
