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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 11:14 AM
  #61  
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From: San Rafael, Ca
Toole
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 01:27 PM
  #62  
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I've been digging around for different years and sizes. What I have found is in '63 they had 11" x 2.5" and 2.25" drum brakes. I found that later F100's (I checked '68 and '70) with 5x5.5 had 11 1/32" x 2.25" brakes. So I want to change up my question about the brakes a little.

Can I buy new 11" x 2.25" shoes for the '63 Galaxie and rear drums (11 1/32" x 2.25") for a '70 F100? Would save me some money too as the '70 droms are almost $30 cheaper than the '58 drums.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 05:09 PM
  #63  
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Did a little more yesterday. Used some 1 1/4 tubing to make the top part of the bottom shock bracket. Cut it to length and then in half long ways. Drilled two 1/2" holes to match the bottom bracket and then used two 1/2" bolts to mount up against the spring perch. It's just there loose in the picture. Final will be painted and have grade 8 bolts.

I also pulled the rear end and leafs out from under the truck. The leafs are going to the spring shop for new bushings and clamps.

Pulled the axles and pumpkin. Inside looked real clean. Degreased, wire wheeled, and painted the housing with Rust Reformer.

I also cleaned up the rear area of the frame and painted it with rust reformer.

Ordered new bearings, seals and gaskets. They come in tomorrow. I may put the 300 pumpkin in tonight. My goal is to do something every night I am not working on my roof project (Been triple digits here so waiting on some cooling to finish).



Bracket (mock up) to hold the stock shock mount in place.



Distance to the ground is above the scrub line.



Scrub line. New tires will probably be a little bigger height wise.



Gives me about 15" sitting height for the rear shocks.



Time to pull it all apart.



Ready to pull and swap the pumpkin.



Cleaning it up.



Painted with Rust Reformer and flat black.



Cleaned and painted the frame as well.
 

Last edited by Martin Torres; Sep 5, 2017 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Fat fingers
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 05:44 PM
  #64  
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This thing is going to look pretty!!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 06:00 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by flhx06
This thing is going to look pretty!!
Ouch.... I'm gonna stop cleaning parts and just throw it back together all dirty like......
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 07:42 PM
  #66  
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Since last post I've done a couple things. I cleaned up the rear end components and assembled it with the differential from the '63 Galaxie. New bearing, seals, and gaskets as well as new wheel studs.

Decided to clean up and use the '58 backing plates and use whatever hardware I can from the '63 brakes. I will buy new drums, wheel cylinders and whatever hardware doesn't transfer from the '63.

I will need new parking brake cables from the drums up to the Y (not sure the technical name). Does anyone know if it is the same from later years? Maybe a part number? Local parts store doesn't have a listing for a '58.

Anyway, the boss gave me the ok to start ordering the parts I need to finish it. Front disc brake conversion, floor pans, ??corners??, carb, bumpers.....

Here are some pictures.




Cut off the old bearings and retainer ring. Punched out the old wheel studs. I want longer ones.



'63 differential is mounted in the '58 housing. Thought about trying to pull this plug but I may be opening a can of worms. It's been there a long time.....



Gonna leave this hood, bracket thingy as I don't want to mes with the bolts or create any leaky gaskets....



Studs pressed in with a 10 lb mini sledge and some muscle....



This is how far the bearing and retainer needed to go to be seated.



This is my special tool for installing the retainer and bearing. 1 1/2 inch galvanized pipe. Worked it like a slide hammer. Worked great. Best part, no nicks or damage so I can get my $12 back.



To protect the studs, I put it on the backside of a rim.



To protect the studs, I put it on the backside of a rim.



Bout 10 whacks and we are good....



Bearing and retainer in place.



All painted up with Rust Reformer and flat black paint.



Backing plate has some pitting but looks pretty good.



Backing plate has some pitting but looks pretty good.



Here are the rear brakes from the '63 Galaxie. Hoping the harware and springs will work on the '58.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 05:29 AM
  #67  
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Are you going to weld the new mounting perches to the rear axle tube? If you don't and just tighten the U bolts, what keeps the rear end from rotating? I would weld them on.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 05:59 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Walston
Are you going to weld the new mounting perches to the rear axle tube? If you don't and just tighten the U bolts, what keeps the rear end from rotating? I would weld them on.
Good point. And getting the pinion angle correct before welding.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
Good point. And getting the pinion angle correct before welding.
Originally Posted by Walston
Are you going to weld the new mounting perches to the rear axle tube? If you don't and just tighten the U bolts, what keeps the rear end from rotating? I would weld them on.
I was thinking some JB Weld and stay off the gas......

New perches are supposed to be delivered today. I also need to get the rear leafs done (new bushings, clamps and paint) and everything back together to get the pinion angle before I weld it.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 07:25 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Martin Torres
I was thinking some JB Weld and stay off the gas.....
ROFLMAO
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 08:10 PM
  #71  
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Pinion angle is set and new perches are welded. I was also able to get the top shock mount to line up with the new location of the bottom mounts. Power booster/master cylinder and king pin rebuild kit came in today. Front disc kit comes in next week. Power booster bolts right to the existing holes. Have to shorten the pushrod a bit and I want to put a spacer to move it out from the firewall a tad more to give a little more clearance between the booster and clutch master cylinder.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 02:15 PM
  #72  
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I have access to a c notch kit for a 53 to 56 F100. It would save me a lot of fab work if it was close enough to fit with a little stretching, bending, and/or cutting.....

Also I like the 3 bend look vs the box I was planning on using.
I grabbed some frame dimension schematics for a 53-56 and 57-60. I pasted them into Word and matched them to size based on the common 34" rear frame width. I then cropped it to just the rear frame side views. i then set transparency on one of them and overlayed them. I then copied to Paint and saved it as a .jpg.
They look pretty dang close to me. Anyone have any info supporting this or refuting this?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2017 | 09:54 PM
  #73  
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Haven't been able to wrench much (at home that is... wrench too much at work....) as I have a major roof project going. The guy doing the work just isn't that reliable and seems to be moving too slow. He's pretty old too. I guess if I got someone to help me it would probably go faster.

All of the parts I ordered have come in and are sitting on the shelf. front disc brake conversion, hydraulic clutch stuff, shocks. I did get the king pin bushings reamed and they are back on the truck. I also ordered a c-notch kit. It's for '53 to '56 but it fits perfect. Was cheaper than a kit for '58.

Hopefully have time next week.




Fits perfect.



C notch kit for '53 to '56 F100. Cheaper than a kit for '58.



King pins rebuilt.



King pins rebuilt.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2017 | 09:33 AM
  #74  
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Thanks for sharing, Martin. Finding time is the hardest thing, I imagine, for most of us! I've had mine for over a year and I'm still working on rewiring and adding new bucket seats!

When you have a second, can you post a link to where you bought the C notch kit from? That's one of the things I'm looking to do in the next year or so but hadn't thought to look at older model kits for my '58. Thanks, good luck!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2017 | 09:58 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by hest_c
When you have a second, can you post a link to where you bought the C notch kit from? That's one of the things I'm looking to do in the next year or so but hadn't thought to look at older model kits for my '58. Thanks, good luck!
I found it on eBay after doing a Google search. I then went to their website but it's more expensive if you go that way. Here is the link from my mobile. I'm not sure if it'll work on a regular computer but if you Google eBay F100 C Notch it comes up.
 
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