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I found it on eBay after doing a Google search. I then went to their website but it's more expensive if you go that way. Here is the link from my mobile. I'm not sure if it'll work on a regular computer but if you Google eBay F100 C Notch it comes up.
I went ahead and had Sacramento Spring build me new springs for the rear based on the new truck height and travel it will have. Still haven't had time to do any work on it as all my spare time has been swallowed up by my roof project and band gigs. Picking up a used Edelbrock carb for cheap later today. Will need akit but is what I have been looking for. I'll post a pic of that later.
Posting pictures of stuff I am buying for the truck kinda makes me feel like I am accomplishing something.....
I had a little more time to work on the ’58. I had a dream that all the parts were in a big walk in refrigerator and everything was spoiling. Figured I better get something done so I can sleep. Also, my daughter is getting her learner’s permit on the 11th.
I ground off the ugly welds on the spring perches and rewelded them (installed the gas kit on my welder) and reassembled it back to the frame with the new leaf springs. The rear sits about 2 inches lower than the spring concoction I made. Without the bumpstops it is about 1 inch from the frame. When I (230 lbs) stand on the rear of the frame, it drops about ½ inch. The old springs collapsed to the frame even though they were about 2 ½ inches above the frame and felt like they would go further. The c notch should give me about another 2 ½” and I think these will work great with that clearance. I have airshocks to help out also. It sits a tad lower than the front but the front clip and hood are not on it. The bed is not on either so it may be a wash. I can play with the front spring mounts to bring the front down if needed. If I need more in the rear, I’m thinking of making some taller front (rear springs) spring mounts.
I also installed the new front disc brake kit. I would say it was pretty painless but I need to clarify “the installation” was pretty painless. Everything fit great and looks great. I did have to swap out the front bearing races (2 minutes per rotor) and grind down a casting ridge on the caliper. Now for the painful part. When grinding, the caliper rolled a little and the grinder nicked the piston seal. I was (and still am) concerned that I created a leak so brilliant me decided to blow some compressed air in the inlet to see if it leaks. Forgot the compressor was set at 150 psi and my air nozzle lever sticks giving you an all or nothing once it lets loose. So my hand was where the pads go and 150 psi really packs a punch when the piston comes out. Gonna leave a scar and you can tell where I was working by the blood drops…….
Anyway, got it all together and the wheels and tires back on. Next on the list is to assemble the rear brakes. Need to clean up the firewall and paint it with the rust reformer paint and then flat black. If we every cherry out the truck, I do it right at that time. Once the firewall is done, gonna mount the power booster/master cylinder and run the brake lines. Bought an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. Gonna make a bracket to mount it on the master cylinder mounting bolts. I’ll swap out the caliper at that time if it leaks.
I decided to go with the stock hydraulic clutch and slave and fabricate something to make it work on the bell housing of the FE big block and 4 speed. That’s on the list too. Here are some pictures.
What the hell? Just spent an hour uploading pictures and making comments to them. This is the third time this has happened to me. I'm not gonna try again.....
The work looks good. My personal opinion though is that the back is now too low. It would take the rest of the sheet metal and final weight to be sure but it looks lower in the back.
The work looks good. My personal opinion though is that the back is now too low. It would take the rest of the sheet metal and final weight to be sure but it looks lower in the back.
Can never be too low..... Once it is all back together, I'll level it out. Maybe the '70's big tire look in the rear.... Just kidding....
Can never be too low..... Once it is all back together, I'll level it out. Maybe the '70's big tire look in the rear.... Just kidding....
I still like a little tire rake on certain vehicles. And like you said, it will settle when the truck is assembled.
I wasn't trying to be a butthead but most serious old hotrodders know one or two inches means the difference in nailing the stance or missing it.
I think the pickup is coming along fine. That disc brake install is a great. Something almost anyone driving these old trucks much should consider, and you showed the nuts and bolts of it really well for those in doubt or intimidated by doing it.thanks
I still like a little tire rake on certain vehicles. And like you said, it will settle when the truck is assembled.
I wasn't trying to be a butthead but most serious old hotrodders know one or two inches means the difference in nailing the stance or missing it.
I think the pickup is coming along fine. That disc brake install is a great. Something almost anyone driving these old trucks much should consider, and you showed the nuts and bolts of it really well for those in doubt or intimidated by doing it.thanks
Oh I didn't take it that way at all. I am seriously considering bringing the back up by flipping the shackle mounts. A cold chisel, 10 lb mini sledge, some muscle, and grade 8 bolts is all I need. Looks like it will move the back of the spring down (truck frame up) about 5.5" to 6". Then I would have room to bring it back down with blocks to match the front. I am an old hottrodder and I need the stance to be right.......
Thanks for the kudo's on the brakes. Ordered the brake line. Should be in tomorrow. Finished the sheeting and facia on my roof and will get an inspection this week to go forward with the metal. Metal will take about 10 days to a week to arrive so I will have time to work on the truck.
I did rebuild the Edelbrock 1405 last night..... I'll post a pic or 2.
Picked this Edelbrock 1405 (wanted to keep the manual choke) for $50. Clean, adjusted, and almost ready to mount on the engine. Just needs an accelerator pump rod and manual choke cable bracket. Ordered yesterday as well as a metal fuel inlet and 1" spacer.
Here is where the accelerator pump rod goes.
Couldn't find my big can so I snuck this casserole dish out of the kitchen.....
If I flip the rear bracket, It will give me room to use blocks to get the ride height correct. I want to keep these springs but right now they are a tad low.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
