Newbie to here....
With my new job (retired from law enforcement after 27 years) I go to farms and work on tractors in the Sacramento Valley in CA. I wish I was a millionaire as I see sooo many project cars and trucks just wasting away in the farm graveyard lines. I saw this gem rusting away and asked the farmer if he would sell it. It is a '58 F100, 292ci with a 4 speed. Body is straight (except for a dent in the hood), has easily repairable rust, and is complete except for tires, rims and tailgate.
My goal is to clean it up a little, repair the rust and clear coat it. I want to keep the original running gear, add an A/C, front disc brakes, lower it a few inches and add whitewalls on black steel rims. I want to keep it as original as possible and use after market parts only when necessary. I am a pretty good mechanic and can fabricate and want to end up with a truck with a Rat Rod look and feel. This will be a daily driver also.
Rather than just diving in and doing the learn from my mistakes, I thought I would seek out those that have already done that and can tell me what worked for them. I'll post a picture of what it looks like now and the look I am going for (a pic I found via Google).
Where it currently sits passenger side.
Where it currently sits driver's side.
The look I want to achieve.
Has anyone encountered a direct or close fit from a later model truck to swap front drum brakes to disc? Dual master cylinder? Really like to do stuff this way vs aftermarket parts. Cheaper and I am more fulfilled. (I grew up poor so I am used to it....)
Has anyone turned the leaf spring onto the top/mount the axle on top to lower the truck? If so, how much did you get and what issued did you encounter with steering components and clearance?
I read somewhere (now I cant find it) that a later model Ford bench seat would be an almost direct fit (after drilling holes). Anyone with a suggestion?
The 292 looks complete. Is it worth a rebuild? I won't need a granny low so I am thinking about swapping out the rear gears to something lower so the granny is a good first gear and 4th will allow me to cruise at highway speeds. My concern is will I get enough HP out of the 292 to push a heavy truck will tall gears. If you have done this, what gears did you use?
I need to buy some used steel wheels and was wondering about the offset from different years. I want to achieve the look above with a set of 15" whitewalls. If I find a set off of a later F series, what years used the same offset?
Anyone here around the Woodland, CA area (95695)?
Thanks.....
Thanks
01 rear axle 3.70
153 Horse power @ 4100 RPM
I think the 292 is well worth rebuilding, and you can build a little extra power into it.
Its nice to see a pretty complete truck to start on.
Many folks are still running the Y blocks. They are a solid workhorse, however they take a little more maintenance than the newer electronic engines. It really boils down to what you want and how you intend to use your truck.
Beware the "dark side" once you start changing a modifying, it becomes a slippery slope.



I like the look you are going for!
Good luck in your quest.
and seat out of a 88-98 gm c/k truck is a perfect fit for the cab... not to mention plentiful & cheap.
And no....., these trucks are not particularly heavy, if you plan on a daily driver no need to put big cubes under the hood, cuz inevitably, the price of gas [B][I]will[I][[B] go up again, I am currently running a 305 s/b in mine with an economy cam jetted down quadra jet and 700/R-4 o/d trans 3:50 rear 235/75/15's and am getting around 30 mpg on the highway and way more power than i will ever need or use. and mine is a panel body with a camper setup in the back.
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 M-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
In any event, I would love to see that thing back on the road! I'm up the hill from you in Placerville.
Ford F100 Shortbed Truck Runs Excellent
First thing to do is get the Ford Truck Shop manual for that year and study it, and make a plan. They have CD versions, but I still like paper manuals for the most part. Maybe one of each. The reproductions are about $45 or so, and worth it.
It makes sense to start from the dirty side on the ground and work on up from there. There are leaf spring suspension kits and spindle drops you can do, they come with disc brakes and the rest of it, not sure for that year but "probably".
You'll kind of have to map things out carefully because one decision in an area will affect so many others down the line and cannot easily be rectified once done. I'm not sure if later Ford front ends are a bolt up deal like they are on some years. Remember your truck has a straight axle, as Ford did not do away with on F100 till 1965
The 292 is a sweet motor, but you'll have to check it out carefully. Does it turn over with a wrench? Machine work and the like is getting expensive, and parts for anything other than a SBC can get spendy. On the other hand they are tough motors, if it is mechanically sound you'll get it running pretty easily. Many people claim they are among the very best sounding motors ever, especially with dual exhaust and glass packs or straight pipes. Thanks for signing up, thanks for the pics!
Ted
A small tip: Be very careful if you try to remove the hood ornament. No one reproduces that one that I know of. The mounting prongs are very easy to break and finding a good used one is really tough.
I just bought a 59 F100 short box step side big back window. I will try to get some pictures tonight. Just started collecting parts for it. I picked up a 351C for it as it already has a 351W in it and not a 292. If I remember right a 292 is the same as a 312.
Good luck with your build and hopefully you post a lot.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=fc25fba436
It is now home and on jackstands. Since I last posted I learned the last registration expired in 1969. History is it was a farm truck and was sent to the graveyard for who knows what reason. Looking at the motor and seeing one of the rocker arms removed makes me think and internal engine issue. Once I pull it and tear it apart I will know more.
Anyway it took several hours to get the drums off. The brake shoes and drums had become one. Needless to say there will be nothing I can use except the front hubs. I am going to pressure wash it and scrub it good to get all the moss of and see what rust repair I have. I am then going to lower it. It will probably need to go at least 5 inches for the look I want. My goal is to keep it Ford and to buy as few aftermarket parts as possible. I am going to move the axles onto the top of the springs and play around with removing and reversing leafs to see what i will end up with. I will most likely need to notch the frame in the rear and I'm sure there will be some steering and linkage issues for me to deal with. Have done this a bunch so I am not too worried.
Does anyone know if there are any other year Ford straight axles that will have a lower spindle and help drop that way? Also, any later model 9" trucks or cars with the same brakes so I can try and find a donor? I saw one post that made me believe the brakes are the same up to the late 60's.
Here are a few pics and I'll post more as I get further into it.
Took a forklift and a backhoe to get it on the trailer. Wheel were locked up solid.
Keys were still in the ignition switch.
Bed has surface rust but is solid and all there.
After a lot of work, the brakes disintegrated and the drums came off.
Ready for pressure washing.
How cool is the radio?














