When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Spent the last 2 days mocking up the exhaust. 2 1/4" aluminium pipe running through 2 chamber Flow Masters. Should have a nice rumble but not too loud. Currently it is all together on the truck and tacked together. I still need to extend the tailpipes and build the trans crossmember before I pull it out, weld it up, grind the welds and then paint it with some heat paint. Think I am gonna use Rustoleum black BBQ paint. Here are the pics.
Was originally going to turn and dump out in front of the rear tires but decided to go ahead and run it to the back.
Headers to an H-pipe and then through 2 original Flow Master 40 series 2 chamber mufflers I bought nearly 20 years ago for a different project by never used.
Hanger installed right after the mufflers. Also put in bolt together flanges so I can separate the front and tailpipe sections for easier install and removal.
Was able to use the existing exhaust hangar brackets.
Drivers side. The holes to get over the axle, by the air shocks, and between the tank and frame were pretty small. Geometry class did pay off...
Passenger side.
Driver's side. Still need to extend the tailpipes. Will probably just run them long for now. I'll cut them and install the stainless turn downs after the truck is together and the bumper is on.
Nice work. How does it look from the side? I'm just about to do mine and it looks similar to yours at it will be just below the frame to get my X-pipe under the transmission. I will do a muffler and then dump or come out before the rear wheels.
Nice work. How does it look from the side? I'm just about to do mine and it looks similar to yours at it will be just below the frame to get my X-pipe under the transmission. I will do a muffler and then dump or come out before the rear wheels.
D
I chose an H-pipe over an X-pipe as the H has a little better scavenging, low end torque and a deeper tone at lower RPM vs the X having more benefit at higher RPM. Also, for scavenging, you want it as far up front as possible and an X would be a pain unless you drop everything low. The truck sits pretty low already and I wanted to keep the exhaust up as high as I could with as few cuts and welds (I'm lazy). I used Summit stuff and the H-pipe comes with a straight crossover and a V crossover. I used the V right at the end of the tailshaft of the trans. Bigger diameter is also not always better so I went 2 1/4. It's not gonna be a racer so I was more concerned with sound and in the cab drone.... Here are pics of the H and side view.
Just a heads up... Since you are looking to remove the front bumper and guard anyway, there's a thread a little farther down by Mrwaynecounty01 who is looking for your grill guard. Might be able to do some swapping.
I chose an H-pipe over an X-pipe as the H has a little better scavenging, low end torque and a deeper tone at lower RPM vs the X having more benefit at higher RPM. Also, for scavenging, you want it as far up front as possible and an X would be a pain unless you drop everything low. The truck sits pretty low already and I wanted to keep the exhaust up as high as I could with as few cuts and welds (I'm lazy). I used Summit stuff and the H-pipe comes with a straight crossover and a V crossover. I used the V right at the end of the tailshaft of the trans. Bigger diameter is also not always better so I went 2 1/4. It's not gonna be a racer so I was more concerned with sound and in the cab drone.... Here are pics of the H and side view.
Perfect thank you. I am doing a 4.6l 3V out of a 2006 Mustang GT so I grabbed my 2.5 X-pipe from a guy selling off parts, I just need to go to Napa and grab a piece of exhaust pipe and a couple mufflers if they are the right price. I try to be as budget conscious as I can but shopping for old common parts that guys sell off at good prices. My next issue is that I have to remove the old trans crossmeber as the pipe is not going to clear it, I may just move it back for added structure on this ladder style frame, as I remove the large original one at the front incase I went with a turbo set up in the future. I do have the CV installed but want as many structural; supports as possible.
Keep up the good work, your deadline is fast approaching.
Got more done today. Both cabs are next to each other. Started on the floor front corner rust repair and front cab mounts. Rolled it on its back. Was more rust than I thought but not too bad. Ran outta gas for the welder but basically all the underneath on the passenger side is welded in or cut and ready to be welded. Gonna ask around and see if someone has some gas I can use tomorrow. Plan is to get the cab braces and floor around it done but leave the rest of the rust repair until it is back on the frame. The new cab brace pieces are cut. Will weld them in when I can. Here are some pics.
Found and easy way to pick up the cabs and move them. Used my motorcycle jack.
Gonna be easier with both cabs next to each other. Original is on the left, replacement on the right.
Used a needle scaler to quickly break up the rust.
Left front before repair.
Left front with floor rust cut out.
Needle scaler uncovered more rust than I thought.
Right front.
After I cut the floor rust out, carefully rolled it onto its back. (Sitting on a couple 4x4's.
Passenger side before repairs.
Rusted section of the cab brace cut off. Gonna save and reuse the rest.
All of the rust cut out. Anyone wanna do a jigsaw puzzle?
Driver's side. Has a little more rust than the passenger side.
Gonna do the same thing with the cab brace.
Found some like new original 1958 made in USA Ford sheetmetal.
Donor metal.
First piece spot welded in.
Front piece cut and bent. Ran outta gas for the welder. Will try to borrow a tank tomorrow.
More pictures. Wasn't able to get any welding gas today so I pulled out my old Lincoln 110 welder and built the trans crossmember. With any luck, tomorrow after work I'll be able to weld up the exhaust and finish the passenger bottom sheetmetal and cab brace. I may be putting the manual box back in so I cleaned it up and painted it. Found a factory hole on the housing behind the wheel at the top. Looks like something is supposed to be mounted there?
Here are some pics....
Forgot to include this photo yesterday. This is what I'm doing to the front cab braces.
Ran out of gas for the welder so I pulled out 'ole faithful to build the trans crossmember.
Using 2 1/2" square tubing on the bottom, 2" x 1" tubing for the sides, and 1/4 plate for the ears to bolt to the frame. Here is it mocked up.
Welded up. Welds look OK but with the gas welder the beads would have looked better but no one is gonna be looking at it unless my daughter runs someone over....
Left openings at the bottom so if anything gets in the top it can drain out.
Cleaned up the steering box as I may be putting it back in.
What is the factory hole behind the steering wheel at the top for?
Painted and ready to go in.
Perfect. Strong and outa the way of the exhaust. Cleaned up the frame under the cab and painted it also.
Exhaust removed and ready to be welded and painted.
The frame sure looks longer without a bed, cab, or front end.
Well I'm not sure where to begin in getting things updated here. I've done a bit of work and took lots of pictures. I finished the exhaust...sort of. I needed to swap to shorty headers but more on that later. I also was able to get the Rack and Pinion modified and mounted. Actually finished that tonight. Didn't get a whole lot done on the front cab mounts and rust repair but I'm down to probably 3 hours of work before the cab mounts are done. Anyway, I'll break the posts up.
First is I took the exhaust out, lengthened the tailpipes, welded it all up, ground down the welds on some of it, and painted it with high heat paint. I then put it back in the truck. Once I get the rear bumper on I'll cut the tailpipes to length and put the chrome turndowns on. About the headers. I found out that I can't have the longtube headers and the rack & pinion. No clearance. I found a pair of new shorty headers on eBay that someone bought for a project but couldn't use. I got them for cheap and they will work perfectly. Plus they are chromed so the truck will go faster. Here are some pics.
Knocked out the rest of the exhaust today. I cut the header pipe on both sides at the H pipe and then ran new pipe up to the headers. Worked out great. All of my clearance issues at the engine mounts and the rack & pinion are resolved. Here are some pics....
First I cut the existing header pipes behind the H pipe welds so the new pipe can slide into the H pipes. I also reused the header flanges.
Reuse, Reduce, Recycle......
Passenger side in place and tacked.
Driver's side was a little more tricky. In place and tacked....
Under shot of the exhaust tacked in place. Also gives a better shot of the rack & pinion in place.
Out and ready to be welded and painted.
Welded.....
Painted.....
Everything back in place. This gives me a lot more room and looks way better than the long tube headers.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
