I have developed yet ANOTHER problem!
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Here's food for thought. How about a Ford factory hydraulic cam that doesn't need breaking in as far as I know? According to Ford Performance book by Pat Ganahl the best 351C cam was the 71 CJ cam which had the same profiles as the 428 CJ. 270/290 degrees duration,.481/.490 lift. Part number D1ZZ6250A. Now I can't check the Ford Dealer Parts locator but I can the other two. Nobody has it. So going back in the Ford Performance book it says the second choice is the 1972 351CJ cam. Part number D2ZZ6250B. This has the same profiles as the 71 cam only it is indexed 4 degrees retarded. So advance it back those 4 degrees with a multi index timing chain and sprocket set. This places show this cam.
xGreen Sales
(800) 543-4959
xGreen Sales
(800) 543-4959
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
That grind is available aftermarket from sealed power, P/N CS-650. And from Howard's cams p/n 237211-15.
But I'm quite fond of the 282/292, 486/512 cam that I've been running. Strong, smooth, high vacuum, and good thunder from behind.
But I'm quite fond of the 282/292, 486/512 cam that I've been running. Strong, smooth, high vacuum, and good thunder from behind.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
You know me, I like to come up with things most don't think about. Kinda like thinking outside the box.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Indeed Jeff! Indeed. I listed those part numbers for future reference.
When I was building the motor the first time I was considering the CJ cam. But then I found mine and liked the specs. So I went with it. Glad I did. Couldn't be happier with it really.
When I was building the motor the first time I was considering the CJ cam. But then I found mine and liked the specs. So I went with it. Glad I did. Couldn't be happier with it really.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Hazelwood
TC
You're probably all over this, but, check the timing chain and gears before re-installation. The sometimes abrupt jerking, stopping and starting with the cam/lifter issues can stretch the chain and/or damage teeth.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 288
Likes: 2
From: Pocahontas, Iowa.
I like the cam in my truck
Engle part #3110h
Powerband 1500-5000
Low end torque, street & towing.
8.5 - 9.5 compression.
Valve lift IN .510” - Duration 262° - Cam lift .295” - 112° Lobe center
Valve lift EX .510” - Duration 270° - Cam lift .295”
It idles a bit rough but I'm getting nearly 20" of vacuum.
I utilize 14 degrees of initial timing with the Distributors 20 degrees of mechanical.
I am also using a Crane Adjustable Vacuum advance unit and my Carb has been built by the best. (a Holly 4150 by Performance Carb in Ontario, Ca. NHRA)
The old boy has a Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear End and I need to be very easy on the throttle leaving a stop light. I have shifted at 5200 and it is still pulling.
Oh yea...ALWAYS replace timing chain and gears when replacing the Cam. (Unless they are BRAND NEW)
Engle part #3110h
Powerband 1500-5000
Low end torque, street & towing.
8.5 - 9.5 compression.
Valve lift IN .510” - Duration 262° - Cam lift .295” - 112° Lobe center
Valve lift EX .510” - Duration 270° - Cam lift .295”
It idles a bit rough but I'm getting nearly 20" of vacuum.
I utilize 14 degrees of initial timing with the Distributors 20 degrees of mechanical.
I am also using a Crane Adjustable Vacuum advance unit and my Carb has been built by the best. (a Holly 4150 by Performance Carb in Ontario, Ca. NHRA)
The old boy has a Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear End and I need to be very easy on the throttle leaving a stop light. I have shifted at 5200 and it is still pulling.
Oh yea...ALWAYS replace timing chain and gears when replacing the Cam. (Unless they are BRAND NEW)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
14 lobes and the lifters are trashed. There is a pile of steel in the oil pan.
Cam bearings are worn on the bottom, which is to be expected. Cylinder bores look good from what I can tell from the bottom.
Cam bearings are worn on the bottom, which is to be expected. Cylinder bores look good from what I can tell from the bottom.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 50
From: Charleston, SC
Got a pic? Sorry for the morbid curiosity.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by DLW-70-F100
Good chance your main bearings will have issues to with that much metal in the oil.
Hope you get it all worked out man. And use a high zinc oil for break in..
Hope you get it all worked out man. And use a high zinc oil for break in
..
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 273
If this was mine it would be getting a complete rebuild. That metal is in the oil galleys, too.
Galley plugs should be removed and galleys brushed out. Cam bearings have to be toast also. Crank journals should be measured if the wear isn't obvious.
Galley plugs should be removed and galleys brushed out. Cam bearings have to be toast also. Crank journals should be measured if the wear isn't obvious.
