I have developed yet ANOTHER problem!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,921
Likes: 272
If you're running dual valve springs, remove the inner spring for the break-in period. Also, use GM EOS, Comp Cams or other break-in additive. I use VR1 racing oil for the zinc content. Change the oil and filter after the break-in is complete.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by DLW-70-F100
Other than the obvious rounded lobe, all your other lobes look pretty worn to me as well. I assume you plan to replace all the lifters with the new cam. What is your normal everyday oil you use?
Originally Posted by ultraranger
Just a thought.... You could retro-fit a roller cam in the Cleveland. It'll free up some more horse power, greatly reduce friction, doesn't have to be broken in like a conventional flat tappet and it isn't prone to wiping the lobes off the cam.
351 Cleveland Roller-Cam Conversion
351 Cleveland Roller-Cam Conversion
Originally Posted by instig8r63
If you're running dual valve springs, remove the inner spring for the break-in period. Also, use GM EOS, Comp Cams or other break-in additive. I use VR1 racing oil for the zinc content. Change the oil and filter after the break-in is complete.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
New cam and lifters showed up today. I got the shaft greased up and slid in the hole 
and the timing set reinstalled.
Also got the timing cover cleaned up and repainted quickly, as well as the new (not rebuilt) water pump. (Old pump was beginning to leak out the weep hole and was pretty rusty)
So I'll try to get some more done tomorrow if I have a chance. But I'm shooting to have it running again on Wednesday.
and the timing set reinstalled. Also got the timing cover cleaned up and repainted quickly, as well as the new (not rebuilt) water pump. (Old pump was beginning to leak out the weep hole and was pretty rusty)
So I'll try to get some more done tomorrow if I have a chance. But I'm shooting to have it running again on Wednesday.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Got it together and fired up. Had to fix the timing first though. I was a little off.
Anyway, start it up, rev it up, and there's coolant blowing everywhere.... From behind the Timing cover.... Wonderful....
So I'm taking it apart again....
Anyway, start it up, rev it up, and there's coolant blowing everywhere.... From behind the Timing cover.... Wonderful....
So I'm taking it apart again....
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I just fill the system with water and check for leaks. If no leaks, I'll fire the engine up and let it get up to operating temperature while still checking for leaks. After it gets up to temp, I'll shut the engine off and then let it come completely back down to ambient temperature. If still no leaks, I'll dump that water and THEN I put the coolant/water mix in.
Straight water is cheaper to dump, if you have a leak after reassembly, than to lose your coolant.
With any luck, it won't take you too long to get it re-redone.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 250
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
Stuff like that's aggravating. I learned my lesson a long time ago, when replacing a water pump or removing the intake or heads, not to (initially) fill the system with anti-freeze/coolant after everything is put back together.
I just fill the system with water and check for leaks. If no leaks, I'll fire the engine up and let it get up to operating temperature while still checking for leaks. After it gets up to temp, I'll shut the engine off and then let it come completely back down to ambient temperature. If still no leaks, I'll dump that water and THEN I put the coolant/water mix in.
Straight water is cheaper to dump, if you have a leak after reassembly, than to lose your coolant.
With any luck, it won't take you too long to get it re-redone.
I just fill the system with water and check for leaks. If no leaks, I'll fire the engine up and let it get up to operating temperature while still checking for leaks. After it gets up to temp, I'll shut the engine off and then let it come completely back down to ambient temperature. If still no leaks, I'll dump that water and THEN I put the coolant/water mix in.
Straight water is cheaper to dump, if you have a leak after reassembly, than to lose your coolant.
With any luck, it won't take you too long to get it re-redone.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
ALSO!
I've been doing a lot of reading about oils and cam shafts and whatnot. I've found out a lot of things. This particular page has a TON of information about engine oil and how over 170 different oils stack up against each other.
Well worth the read if you have time.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
I've been doing a lot of reading about oils and cam shafts and whatnot. I've found out a lot of things. This particular page has a TON of information about engine oil and how over 170 different oils stack up against each other.
Well worth the read if you have time.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Be Speedy or in a hurry to get it back on the road is not a virtual thing of doing it slower and make sure it's done right the first time that is sometimes hard to learn.
But we'd all been their a few times young or old over looked things.
And assuming the rear new water pump rear plate cover bolts are tight can lead to having to pull the pump again. Something we learn as a young man or in are youth.
I once left off the valley cover under the 390 intake for 15 yrs. with no bad effects of burnt sludge built up on the under side of the Iron intake..
I carried that valley pan in my camper for yrs waiting for the day I'd have to remove it to install in. At 97k I pulled the engine down to get the heads rebuilt with harden seats.
And install a RV low end TQ cam.
Orich
But we'd all been their a few times young or old over looked things.
And assuming the rear new water pump rear plate cover bolts are tight can lead to having to pull the pump again. Something we learn as a young man or in are youth.
I once left off the valley cover under the 390 intake for 15 yrs. with no bad effects of burnt sludge built up on the under side of the Iron intake..
I carried that valley pan in my camper for yrs waiting for the day I'd have to remove it to install in. At 97k I pulled the engine down to get the heads rebuilt with harden seats.
And install a RV low end TQ cam.
Orich
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
I always kick myself in the *** when I try to rush things or save a buck. Each time I say I won't do it again, but then I do it on something else....
So from now on, if I have any more problems, you guys help remind me. Haha
So from now on, if I have any more problems, you guys help remind me. Haha
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Be Speedy or in a hurry to get it back on the road is not a virtual thing of doing it slower and make sure it's done right the first time that is sometimes hard to learn.
But we'd all been their a few times young or old over looked things.
And assuming the rear new water pump rear plate cover bolts are tight can lead to having to pull the pump again. Something we learn as a young man or in are youth.
I once left off the valley cover under the 390 intake for 15 yrs. with no bad effects of burnt sludge built up on the under side of the Iron intake..
I carried that valley pan in my camper for yrs waiting for the day I'd have to remove it to install in. At 97k I pulled the engine down to get the heads rebuilt with harden seats.
And install a RV low end TQ cam.
Orich
But we'd all been their a few times young or old over looked things.
And assuming the rear new water pump rear plate cover bolts are tight can lead to having to pull the pump again. Something we learn as a young man or in are youth.
I once left off the valley cover under the 390 intake for 15 yrs. with no bad effects of burnt sludge built up on the under side of the Iron intake..
I carried that valley pan in my camper for yrs waiting for the day I'd have to remove it to install in. At 97k I pulled the engine down to get the heads rebuilt with harden seats.
And install a RV low end TQ cam.
Orich
"Haste makes waste."
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
I read that entire article about oil. Very good piece. My brother worked at an oil analysis lab at CAT for many years. He concurs completely. And I know just what the authors talking about on the MUST HAVE MORE ZINC myth. I helped a guy put a new engine in yacht, and all the owner talked about was adding zinc to the oil to break in the camshaft. So I asked him, "how do you know when it's got enough zinc in the oil?" He turned his head like a puppy (when he hears a new sound) and told me to just add some. He blew that 454 up on his way to Alaska. I guess two qt.s wasn't enough.