I have developed yet ANOTHER problem!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I cut the upper tops off an old pair of valve cover to view the push rods at first startup when doing a rebuilt to give them a little spin if not turning, This way it's important to not have any push rods bent. Max bent .020 but so roll them on moms kitchen table.
Also great for adjusting the valve lash while running the engine if needed..
Orich
Also great for adjusting the valve lash while running the engine if needed..
Orich
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
Likes: 3
From: Union City, CA
The reason for recommending the engine to run at 2500 RPM for a cam break in is because the cam is not pressure lubed and relies on the crankshaft movement for splash oiling. A lot of engine builders do it this way and have been for quite some time.
For the oil, I'll keep using oil high in ZDDP for break in. Between crap oil and high spring seat pressures many cam's have crapped out in about 2 minutes of run time. I'll still run a higher zinc oil than conventional oil myself for everyday use, I think why a lot of guys now use Diesel oil in the form of Rotella T, higher in Zinc 1400 ppm, cost is not to bad and is a good oil, but lots of options out there. To each there own I guess.
For the oil, I'll keep using oil high in ZDDP for break in. Between crap oil and high spring seat pressures many cam's have crapped out in about 2 minutes of run time. I'll still run a higher zinc oil than conventional oil myself for everyday use, I think why a lot of guys now use Diesel oil in the form of Rotella T, higher in Zinc 1400 ppm, cost is not to bad and is a good oil, but lots of options out there. To each there own I guess.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
The reason for recommending the engine to run at 2500 RPM for a cam break in is because the cam is not pressure lubed and relies on the crankshaft movement for splash oiling. A lot of engine builders do it this way and have been for quite some time.
For the oil, I'll keep using oil high in ZDDP for break in. Between crap oil and high spring seat pressures many cam's have crapped out in about 2 minutes of run time. I'll still run a higher zinc oil than conventional oil myself for everyday use, I think why a lot of guys now use Diesel oil in the form of Rotella T, higher in Zinc 1400 ppm, cost is not to bad and is a good oil, but lots of options out there. To each there own I guess.
For the oil, I'll keep using oil high in ZDDP for break in. Between crap oil and high spring seat pressures many cam's have crapped out in about 2 minutes of run time. I'll still run a higher zinc oil than conventional oil myself for everyday use, I think why a lot of guys now use Diesel oil in the form of Rotella T, higher in Zinc 1400 ppm, cost is not to bad and is a good oil, but lots of options out there. To each there own I guess.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
Likes: 3
From: Union City, CA
Yep, a lot's happened in 45 years, much better options now. Besides using the proper break in oil, you should definitely be coating the cam liberally with some sort of lube, it used to be the Moly lube, now its more in the way of the red line assembly lubes, Ford racing also has their own camshaft and lifter prelube, comp cams has theirs, etc..
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by instig8r63
What springs are you running?
I just checked my valvetrain specs on my 460. I am running around 120ish seat pressure and 350ish open.
I just checked my valvetrain specs on my 460. I am running around 120ish seat pressure and 350ish open.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
I couldn't find the cam card for that Crane cam
so I went searching my Favorite Lunati for a similar cam as your original .
I came up with 3 from their Voodoo series
62500 250/256 adv .503/.524
62501 256//262 adv .524/.540
62502 262/268 adv .540/.552 *I like this 1 almost same numbers
here's the sims
62500
62501
62502
so I went searching my Favorite Lunati for a similar cam as your original .
I came up with 3 from their Voodoo series
62500 250/256 adv .503/.524
62501 256//262 adv .524/.540
62502 262/268 adv .540/.552 *I like this 1 almost same numbers
here's the sims
62500
62501
62502
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
oh here's a link to the Voodoo page if you want to read up .
https://www.lunatipower.com/ProductG...?id=287&cid=67
https://www.lunatipower.com/ProductG...?id=287&cid=67
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Tucson Arizona
You've probably heard this already but I'm not going to go throuogh all of the responses to find out.
Every time that this has happened to me it has been one spark plug wire not seated properly. This happened just a couple of weeks ago after I did some work on it. With a stock ignition coil you'll hear a tick-tick and have a misfire.
I have an MSD to coil setup so it has a bzzztttt noise which makes it a little easier to diagnose.
Every time that this has happened to me it has been one spark plug wire not seated properly. This happened just a couple of weeks ago after I did some work on it. With a stock ignition coil you'll hear a tick-tick and have a misfire.
I have an MSD to coil setup so it has a bzzztttt noise which makes it a little easier to diagnose.
I think I am cursed or something.
Today on my drive home, my engine started ticking loudly and mis-firing. I noticed it and pulled over to check it out. Coming from the driver side. Well I was over 20 miles from town/home out in the desert. I had to drive it home. It ran ok short of the noise and occasional misfire/backfire through the carb.
So I got home and pulled the plugs and valve cover. Plugs looked fine, nice and tan and clean. Valve cover off revealed nothing. I started it for a few seconds and watched the valve action. No visible problems.
About 500 miles ago I switched jets in the carb, leaned it out a bit in hopes of better mpg. (I have to drive over 70miles a day) I gained 2mpg, but it was definitely on the lean end of the spectrum.
Based on that, I'm worried I burned a valve, or sank one in the seat. But I don't know yet...
Expert advice and input wanted!
Today on my drive home, my engine started ticking loudly and mis-firing. I noticed it and pulled over to check it out. Coming from the driver side. Well I was over 20 miles from town/home out in the desert. I had to drive it home. It ran ok short of the noise and occasional misfire/backfire through the carb.
So I got home and pulled the plugs and valve cover. Plugs looked fine, nice and tan and clean. Valve cover off revealed nothing. I started it for a few seconds and watched the valve action. No visible problems.
About 500 miles ago I switched jets in the carb, leaned it out a bit in hopes of better mpg. (I have to drive over 70miles a day) I gained 2mpg, but it was definitely on the lean end of the spectrum.
Based on that, I'm worried I burned a valve, or sank one in the seat. But I don't know yet...
Expert advice and input wanted!