I searched 351C oil passages and found this:

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="6" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2"></td><td nowrap="nowrap"> monsterbaby
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</td><td nowrap="nowrap" valign="top"> Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: iowa
Posts: 18,205



</td></tr></tbody></table> actually lifters collapsing isn't the usual problem with the oiling system on the cleveland unless someone put the large restrictor on the oil passage in the #5 main bearing saddle when they were using hyd lifters this is not a good idea.
The biggest problem with the oiling system is not getting enough oil to the rear main bearings due to excessive lifter to bore clearence expecially on the drivers side allowing to much oil to "leak" past the lifters to fast and using up all the oil the pump can put out. The other problem is because the oiling system puts the oil to the lifters first, anddue to poor oil drain back system they can and will pump all the oil from the pan up to the heads. There is a couple things that can be done to fix that, easiest one is to look at the drain back hole in the back of the heads and block deck surface you will find they do not line up very well so what you want to do is champher the holes to allow for better flow through them back to the pan I did it by taking a drill bit that would barely fit down the hole in the head set the head on the block and then lightly drill through the head to the deck surface and remove the head you will see the misalignment and can then take a die grinder and cut that out then do the oppisite side of the hole on the head a small amount.
Also even though there is some disagreement on this I run the external bypass line from the front oill passege to a T under where the oil sending unit is screwed in.

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When I built the engine back in 2013 I cleaned and cleared All the oil galleys and passages. High volume pump was installed as well. So I'm fairly certain that lube wasn't the problem, rather the oil itself.

The camshaft is splash lubricated by the crankshaft slinging oil around on it. When I started it up this time, I revved it up around 3000 rpm like everyone says to do. Well, needless to say, I am regretting that decision. Last time, I followed rule of don't go over 2500rpm until 500 miles, and I didn't have a problem.


All in all, this really does suck, but I've been curious as to what the internal condition was anyway. So now I get to see. I'm hoping I only need to clean it all out, and possibly put bearings in it. But if I need to do more, I might up the compression with different Pistons and try to figure out how to make a 400hp engine! But maybe not... I need to keep it street able and tow worthy.

 

Back in the day after yrs. before learning about putting in lighter v-spring on start up.
I pushed out the bottom side of all the cam bearing before, I got the dizzy set to fire up. And did not have a reversible drill to prime the block full of oil.
so just primed the oil pump good.


Then when finally getting fired up it was making noises, so turned it off checked oil and looked like silver paint!

WTF where did this Shxt come from so pulled the motor back out and pulled it down and found the lower cam bearing all gone.

My new valve springs 240 seat psi did it. So talked to a cam shop who setup my heads and told me to use STP on the cam & lifters as, I was putting it all back together.

So the STP did solved my cam bearing issues with heavy valve springs.

I don't remember any special cam lube on the market back then..

So I've always used STP on cam & lifter after that until my last build, I used the comp cam lube but no racing valve springs now days.

Floating lifter's pound back down past the lobe that chips it away until wipes the lobe .

 

My valve springs aren't too heavy, about 120 on the seat. But I am considering lightening them up some. Either by removing the inner spring, for replacing them with some that are 90 on the seat.

 

Seat pressure isn't as critical in terms of cam break in as is open pressure.
I removed the inner springs for the break in period on my solid flat cam. I ran Comp cams break in additive and VR1 40W oil.

 

Open load is around 300. A bit stiff but when I bought them I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have any valve float issues with the higher lifting cam.

 

I think you achieved your goal since now you definitely don't have to worry about valve float with that cam.

On a more serious note, do you know what the pushrod hole diameter is?

Here's an article discussing oiling modifications to a 351C. Unless you're really spinning the engine up, some of it shouldn't be necessary but it does mention using pushrods with a smaller .040" oiling hole.

351 Cleveland Oil Restrictors - 351C Oiling Fix - Hot Rod Magazine

Like any engine, it will only survive by how many cubic dollars you're willing to spend on beefing it up, to stand up to whatever abuse it'll be subjected to.

 

What springs are you running?
I just checked my valvetrain specs on my 460. I am running around 120ish seat pressure and 350ish open.

 

Comp 924 springs. I'm thinking about getting some Elgin rv907xs springs. Which are stock 4v Cleveland springs.

 

The break in period for the cam is where your problems are accuring. You have to run a high zinc oil/break in oil to get the cam lobes to harden. You can watch Fast and Loud when they did the mustang build and wiped out a cam due to not using break in oil. Yes it is expensive, but you do it right and it should last at least 100k miles not 20 minutes.

 

Yeah I'm not gonna skimp on the oil this time.

 

Upgrade to a roller cam and eliminate cam break in problems altogether.

 

Don't think I didn't think about it

 

I'm running the same springs. My open spring pressure is higher due to more camshaft lift.
Like I said, I removed the inner springs for the break in, added Comp cams break in fluid and VR1. Started it up and fluctuated the idle between 2000-2500 for half an hour, shut if off and drained the oil. I let it cool down put fresh oil and filter in it along with a bottle of GM EOS oil additive, installed the inner springs and adjusted the valves.

 

I asked comp what removing the inner spring would do as far as pressures go. If the outer is strong enough by itself I may just remove them permanently.