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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:22 AM
  #361  
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I'm really thinking it's alternator time. I'm sure that's the same one I put on there years ago.
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:32 AM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by 77mud
Bob if you end up needing a alternator I'd suggest a 1 wire 3g swap. They're very easy to wire up.
I agree...
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 06:44 AM
  #363  
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What is that exactly, and what are we looking at money wise
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 07:11 AM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by ubereal2
What is that exactly, and what are we looking at money wise
Read up on it here, Bob.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 07:57 AM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by fuzzy1626
Cool, thanks Tony
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 09:11 AM
  #366  
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I did the 3G swap on mine Bob, I'm very pleased with it. i put a junkyard 3G in my F100 about 10 years ago and it's still going strong, but since then the price has come down enough that you can get a reman parts store 3G for $100. Last time I needed one, which was on the Mazda B pickup 302 conversion I did last year, I bought this one which is the part listed for a 90 Taurus V6. It puts out 130 amps and from what I remember reading, these 3G even put out 90 amps at idle:

Valucraft/Alternator 7752-6-7 - Read Reviews on Valucraft #7752-6-7

*PS - Don't forget, take your old V-belt pulley off the old one, you'll need it!
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 11:02 AM
  #367  
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yep, 3G blows the 1G away. Wasnt sure if you wanted to stick with the old style or not. I grabbed mine for $40 or so out of a junkyard, it was a recent AZ Duralast reman. pretty sure the big difference between them and the valucraft is the warranty. I think dorman makes the plug, and you'll need to make a charge cable. might need to clock it, but that takes all of 30 seconds.
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #368  
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I/m sure that is the Alternator I put on there years ago, and it's a Lifetime Warranty, I just can't find the receipt and nothing shows in their computer over six years un der my name, and phone numbers.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 01:13 PM
  #369  
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Well there goes my thinking that the Alternator was bad. It's charging just fine.
Now onto checking out the wiring to the voltage regulator, and then the regulator itself.
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #370  
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I think with the pulley, and belt purchases I have $100 into my swap and I bought the harness/amp already pre built from a small race/fab shop. However I already had my alternator.
 
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 05:20 PM
  #371  
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I couldn't tell you how many voltage regulator I replaced under warranty. But the job paid good for the time that it took.
 
Old Feb 18, 2016 | 07:03 AM
  #372  
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Here's what I found when I removed the Voltage Regulator yesterday. I'm hoping that rust is what's causing my no charge issue.
I'm going to clean it up as good as I can, and double check for good grounds and see what happens.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 08:51 AM
  #373  
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Originally Posted by ubereal2
Here's what I found when I removed the Voltage Regulator yesterday. I'm hoping that rust is what's causing my no charge issue.
I'm going to clean it up as good as I can, and double check for good grounds and see what happens.
Spray some wd-40 on it and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then hit it with a wire brush. If it doesn't clean up, bring it with you on Saturday and put it on the wire wheel here.
 
Old Feb 18, 2016 | 10:15 AM
  #374  
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I would put a little dielectric grease on them after cleaning.
 
Old Feb 18, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by fuzzy1626
I would put a little dielectric grease on them after cleaning.
WD-40 and wire brush's I have, but Dielectric grease, uh no.
I have that terminal cleaned up, and have added additional grounds to the Voltage Regulator, as well as from the case of the alternator, to the negative side of the battery.
Just finished feeding my neck, and getting ready to see if I did any good to the truck. If not, then I'll get a new Voltage Regulator.
 



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