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So i finally brought the e99 engine from work to begin the rebuild, parts will be coming from ford unless I get one from ebay with Mahle pistons and stuff? Wich is preferable both are about the same price.
Heres some pics of the engine on my work truck
Does this engine have Forged rods? The reason I ask is because at some point this engine was replaced heres a pic of the serial #
The only way to be 100% sure on the rods is to open the inspection plug on the side of the block. Forged rods came with a 12 point but vs. pmr's came with a 6 point. Also check riff raff for the rebuild kit. Machined Pistons are an upgrade.
in the second picture down, is that a crack in your rear oil cooler mount? probably not just want to make sure
It looks like it but I just checked it and its just a few scuff marks, I used a knife and crew driver to clean the (diroil) my name for oil with dirt. I keep forgetting about riffraff im so used to buying at evilbay for the fleet of trucks at work that I dismiss Riffraff one of our sponsors. Sounds like a good deal for the rebuild kit cheaper than dealer.
The rebuild kit is a complete Ford kit. Which also means you get Ford seals. That motor is looking pretty solid inside. Did you do a leak down or compresion test on it al all?
im honestly surprised my oil cooler..knock on wood... hasnt started leaking with how much rust is on the tube, i debated replacing it when i pulled my motor and i probably should have. but now my rear main started leaking, i replaced that when i pulled my motor...guess i screwed something up. (and yes im sure its the rear main, i checked every other normal/not normal place)
This engine I took it out 3 years ago due to low compression on cyl 8. Cylinder wall looks good piston has little movement wich tells me the piston rings are not that bad. I put water on the intake side of the head, and water just went past the intake valve on cyl 8 ( bent valve maybe) still got to inspect because the exhaust valves on cyl 2-4-6-8 had water tearing from the valves valve job might work. I have to take it to a machine shop to see if I can get away with .30 over
I checked they are round, I used one of those caliper gauges to check for roundness and theres no gap when spinning the gauge around so the cylinder wall is good in that aspect. Still got to check the other side though
If the other side checks out I think I rather do the engine than paint the truck. That way I will know what a "new" 7.3 with my mods feels like My tranny shows no sign of giving up but would like to at least put a tripple disc torque converter for peace of mind ~
Local junk yards . If im not mistaken El Paso Tx is the biggest car exporter for used cars to central America and South America thats why we end up with all the junk :- X03 competition is fierce between jk so prices are competetive
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. I keep forgetting about riffraff 
im so used to buying at evilbay for the fleet of trucks at work that I dismiss Riffraff one of our sponsors
. Sounds like a good deal for the rebuild kit cheaper than dealer.
valve job might work. I have to take it to a machine shop to see if I can get away with .30 over
~
