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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:22 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ferguson65
Don't know what brand of locks yours uses, mine are Global Link, but it cost me 19.99 plus shipping to eliminate that hassle. Well worth it IMO. You can buy just the tumblers for $4.50, BUT you need a special key that the public can't buy to change them. In my case the one is screwed up already and won't take a key, so new lock it is. I had to take the whole thing apart and gut the deadbolt parts just to get the door open.


One would think, that with how many locks the manufacturers (I believe the doors are built by Lippert) buy that matching up the locksets on double door trailers at assembly wouldn't be that hard.
Ya have to realize.....These plants hire retired Army logistics folks to handle parts.......




..........
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:26 PM
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Yes! And they do a fantastic job. Just imagine if they hired ex-Navy logistic folks.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by CarlT100
Yes! And they do a fantastic job. Just imagine if they hired ex-Navy logistic folks.
One key would work in all the locks on the trailer.......
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:30 PM
  #34  
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Hi Carl.........

Are we having Fun.........
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Sailor_Roy
One key would work in all the locks on the trailer.......
Originally Posted by Sailor_Roy
Hi Carl.........

Are we having Fun.........
Yes we are!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 12:58 PM
  #36  
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Hey guys, not sure if you saw in my thread, but the RVLock units are a great upgrade if your changing things out anyways. Wireless remote or you can use the lighted number keypad on the door lock itself. I got one like that and one keyed alike standard handle for the rear door. Bottom line is no need to worry about keys at all anymore...

My truck is like Roy's on the charging. I ordered with the dual alts too. Has no problem keeping my two Lifeline AGM 6V's charged. I also have a 160 watt solar panel on the roof. It keeps my batteries charged up when at home so I never have to top up or disconnect my rig from the batteries to avoid drain. It also helps while dry camping....
 
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 01:46 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
Hey guys, not sure if you saw in my thread, but the RVLock units are a great upgrade if your changing things out anyways. Wireless remote or you can use the lighted number keypad on the door lock itself. I got one like that and one keyed alike for the rear door. Bottom line is no need to worry about keys at all anymore...

My truck is like Roy's on the charging. I ordered with the dual alts too. Has no problem keeping my two Lifeline AGM 6V's charged. I also have a 160 watt solar panel on the roof. It keeps my batteries charged up when at home so I never have to top up or disconnect my rig from the batteries to avoid drain. It also helps while dry camping....
I want to do that. Going to have to recover from the Alaska Trip Drain........
 
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Sailor_Roy
I want to do that. Going to have to recover from the Alaska Trip Drain........

Me x2. Just the build of my latest engineless toy is making me cheap for a month or so....................19.99 keyed alike sounded better right now! Still need to put a tonneau cover on the truck I've been putting off for months too.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 05:14 PM
  #39  
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Did the lock swap on the rear door Friday before we left for the weekend. One key is great. Though I did notice that the rear door appears to be bowed. Added that to the list of things for the dealer. We dropped the trailer off on the way home and the 50A conversion and second a/c go in this week.


Mod list got longer too, the campground we went to had a terrible entrance, downhill, into a dip, then up a hill. Really? Road and driveway were all gouged to hell and I added a gouge going in. Destroyed the triangular drag thing at the L/R. Rubbed the spare sidewall pretty good. Those things wouldn't need to be 7" tall if they hadn't mounted the spare in such an ignorant location. So before we left I lowered the spare and tossed it in the garage to avoid any more damage. Imagine my surprise when I found out that the spare was tightened up against one crossmember and the winch crank shaft! Jackasses. So spare relocation just got added to the list of mods.


On a side note, the campground was up some really nasty hills, from dead stops that the 6.7 pulled with ease. Our neighbor showed up with a newer chevy 2500 gasser and was livid. The truck wouldn't pull their wildcat up the hills and some nice guy with a dodge dually hooked a chain up and helped him make it. He seemed very serious about ditching the gasser for a diesel dually on the way home!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #40  
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Can't Believe mfg's put those triangle "thingies" on the back of many trailers to "protect" the rear jacks or spare tire.
This summer with my in laws, up at the World of Outlaw race in Grand Forks, backing up onto a grass camp spot, we were one of several trailers to bend both the triangle brackets and rear jacks. Even trying to back in at an angle, it wasn't possible to gain clearance.
When returning to their home, we took off and straightened the jacks, removed the triangles, and developed a clevis pin system to remove the jacks while traveling.
No more worries of driveway scrapping, bent jacks, and sparks flying.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 07:47 PM
  #41  
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Finally have the trailer back at home now and not on it's way back to the dealer. Used it this weekend and the keyed alike doors are great. The spare tire in the truck bed, not so much. The second A/C was great this weekend, don't think I saw the temperature in the trailer over 68 degrees in either room. The garage unit was supposed to be a 13.5K, but the paperwork I was given shows 15K. Soon enough I will climb up and check it out. It's wired for the heat strip, and since the garage has no ducted heat, that will be on the mod list too. I'm almost able to walk without limping finally, so may start getting some stuff accomplished.


Relocate spare tire winch behind axles, most likely under the existing area where the fuel cell would be.


Install awning light dimmer, yes I caved and bought it.


Install awning support poles and brackets. Everything is back from powdercoat.


Will probably swap low profile tag light out for a taller one. It illuminates everything except the plate really well.


I also want to add more sewer hose holders under the front of the trailer to get the hoses and giant bin out of my limited outside storage.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #42  
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Scott, my ac's are setup for the heat strips too, but with the cost of them and the new thermostat required to run them, it's just not worth it IMHO. I'd recommend an oil filled heater. $89 or so and nice quiet heat...
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
Scott, my ac's are setup for the heat strips too, but with the cost of them and the new thermostat required to run them, it's just not worth it IMHO. I'd recommend an oil filled heater. $89 or so and nice quiet heat...

The garage A/C doesn't have a (separate) thermostat, controls are on the unit, it has a dedicated heat setting. I can just barely reach them, but I didn't pay for it so it works. It is nice to have the 3 speed fan (for anyone sleeping back there) rather than just the kill mode fan with the thermostat. I should just need the strip.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #44  
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Ah, ok. Different setup than mine.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 08:58 PM
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Both of your A/C units are on the same t-stat Rodney?
 
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